Palermo: The Final Chapter of My Italy by Rail Adventure

Sicily was meant to be the highlight of my Italy by train journey; my ultimate goal, the place I had been working towards. I had planned three days each in Syracuse and Palermo. Syracuse, however, was a write-off, as I spent my entire time there in quarantine. By the time I reached Palermo, still in a COVID haze of fatigue, I had recovered enough to enjoy parts of the city, but perhaps not as much as I would have liked. Even so, it remained the highlight. I fell in love with Sicily despite my bad fortune and returned the following year.

The train journey from Syracuse to Palermo was stunning, running along the coastline to your right and offering spectacular views of Mount Etna to your left. It’s a journey that I’ll never forget and ranks amongst the very best rail journeys I experienced on this trip.

Syracuse, Interrupted

When I booked Syracuse, I had visions of walking along the beach in a flowing summer dress, sipping Sicilian wine in a seaside bar and indulging in plate after plate of good Sicilian food. Instead, I spent most of my time there in quarantine.

I had chosen Syracuse over Catania because it appeared quieter and a little more off the beaten tourist path. Unfortunately, I never truly got to find out if that instinct was right. By the time I ventured out on my third and final evening, taking a short walk along the seafront to watch the sun set over the water, the city felt calm and unhurried. Had I been feeling my best, I would have happily settled into one of the seaside bars with that cool glass of Sicilian wine, or perhaps a limoncello.

It was certain from that brief foray out that Syracuse deserved more than a brief glimpse. I returned eight months later to properly relive my Sicilian dream, and that will be a later post.

Getting There – Syracuse to Palermo

The trains from Syracuse to Palermo require a change at either Catania or Messina. The journey time can range from 4.5 to 6 hours, depending on the time of day, the change over period (I had a 30 minute wait, which was bliss – enough time to grab some refreshments for the second half of my journey), and where you change – changing at Catania Aeroporto Fontanarossa will get you to Palermo Centrale in 4.5 hours.

Siracusa is a main rail hub therefore trains run frequently to various destinations. The price of ticket to Palermo starts at €20.

Arriving at Palermo Centrale, my Airbnb apartment was a short walk from the station. If you are staying further away from the station, there are regular bus and tram services, and taxis running from the station to other areas of the city. We Are Palermo has this great article on how to navigate Palermo’s public transport.

Where I Stayed

I chose a great little apartment near Palermo Centrale (mainly because I had a morning flight on the day of my departure), and it was also within walking distance of the Old Town. My host, Paola, was incredibly patient and understanding when I managed to lock myself out of the apartment. You needed the key to open the door from the inside, and I stepped outside not realising that it would automatically swing shut behind me, which it did with the keys still inside. Fortunately, the apartment was located in a courtyard, sheltered from the glaring Palermo sun. The ideal place to wait to be rescued.

Everything about the apartment was perfect. Quietly tucked away from the main streets, amazing air conditioning, a rooftop terrace for breakfast and relaxing in the evenings… and much needed popsicles in the freezer! I would certainly look to book this apartment again if I ever return to Palermo – here is the listing.

Exploring Palermo

Palermo is the historic capital of Sicily, renowned for its UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman architecture, historic street markets, and cuisine. This chaotic city has a lot to offer, so you’ll be short of things to do. But if you are, Mondello, Cefalú, and Monreale are all just a day trip away.

I had two and half days in Palermo and, admittedly, I could have done more. While I was over the worst of COVID, I still felt very tired, and the headache lingered (it took me three months to fully recover). So each day I did what I could before I could no more, and here are my highlights.

Visit the Opera House

📍Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza Verdi
🕰️ Daily 9:30am – 6:20pm.
🎟️ Tour tickets start at €12. Under 26 – €6

The movie buffs amongst you will recognise Palermo’s Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele from the final scenes of The Godfather Part III (it’s also featured in the second season of The White Lotus). A visit to this beautiful opera house, the largest in Italy and third largest in Europe, is a must for everyone.

The opera house was designed by Giovan Battista Filippo Basile and completed by his son Ernesto after Giovan’s death in 1891, finally opening in 1897. The design was inspired by ancient and classical Sicilian architecture, with its neoclassical style incorporating elements of the Greek temples at Selinunte and Agrigento.

Watching a performance is a must. However, if you’re not lucky enough to secure tickets, I highly recommend a guided tour – even if you do manage to get tickets. The tours are popular and, like the performances, do sell out quickly, so I recommend booking in advance.

Buy Cannoli and Other Sweet Treats from a Monastery

📍Piazza Bellini 33
🕰️ Daily 9:30am – 1:30pm and 3:00pm – 7:00pm

I segreti del Chiostro is a project to keep a 700-year tradition of Sicilian baking alive. Cloistered nuns would bake sweet goods to gift to high profile guests and sell to locals. While the cloistered nuns have long disappeared from Sicilian life, the Santa Caterina bakery continues the tradition, selling pastries, cakes, and other sweet confections made true to the original recipes created by the nuns.

As you walk into the bakery, you’re surrounded by glass displays of tempting Sicilian cakes and delights. Amongst the buzz of the excited customers, cannoli are made fresh, with the shells filled with ricotta right in front of you.

The queues are very long, especially in the Sicilian heat, so be patient and kind to those waiting and those serving you. You might even make new friends! During my visit, a group of us got chatting about our time in Palermo and Sicily, sharing tips along the way.

You can relax and eat your chosen pastry in the cloister’s beautiful rose and citrus garden. I, of course, opted for a fresh cannolo, and I must say it was the best I’ve ever had. I’ve yet to have one that beats it.

Experience All Five Senses at Capo Market

📍Via Porta Carini
🕰️ Daily 8:30 am – 6:00 pm

I found Capo Market quite overwhelming. It was overcrowded, with Vespas zipping through the crowds. I did my best to take in the senses; the sight and the feel of the colourful produce on display, the smells of food cooking, the sounds of the street traders shouting out their wares; but it quickly became too much.

I knew I couldn’t leave without trying or buying something, and that’s when I came across a cart selling Limoncello Spritz.

Originating from the Amalfi Coast, the limoncello spritz has become popular in Sicily. This refreshing drink, now a firm favourite of mine, is made with limoncello, Prosecco, and soda water; and certainly packs a punch. A couple of sips in, and I was merrily on my way to my next destination.

Bound Across the Rooftops of Palermo Cathedral

📍Via Vittorio Emanuele
🕰️ Monday – Friday 9:30am – 2:30pm. Saturday – 9:30pm – 6:00pm. Sunday – 9:00am – 1:00pm. Opening times may vary on Holy days – check the official site for further information.
🎟️ Tickets €4 – €18, depending on the areas you wish to visit. The nave is free.

Don’t bound – walk… respectfully.

The Cathedral of Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Palermo Cathedral, is one of the nine religious and civic structures that form the UNESCO designated Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalú and Monreale. These Norman palaces, churches, cathedrals, and even a bridge built in the Arab-Norman style, incorporating Arab and Byzantine architecture into their design.

All of these structures are a must see, but if you only have time one, make it Palermo Cathedral. Built in 1185, it is as beautiful on the outside as it is within. I sat for at least 20 minutes simply admiring the exterior.

Inside the nave is free for all to visit. However, the monumental areas are ticketed, including:

• Magdalene Chapel – a medieval chapel rediscovered in the 1980s
• Treasures – view precious items such as the 12th-century gold Crown of Constance of Aragon, adorned with gems and pearls, alongside a vast collection of chalices, monstrances, and altar frontals dating from the 13th to 16th centuries
• Apses – recesses showcasing the Arab-Norman style in which the cathedral was built
• Rooftops – accessed via a narrow, winding spiral staircase, leading to incredible views over Palermo. A must, but not for the fainthearted

There are a range of ticket options. I chose the combined Archbishop’s Palace Complex (Diocesan Museum) and Cathedral Monumental Area ticket, which, at €13, was a bargain. I do regret not doing the rooftops, but I wasn’t well enough at the time.

As with all European religious buildings, there is a strict dress code. Shoulders and knees must be covered. I have a long summer dress that I wear on days when I know I will be visiting religious sites, and I carry a lightweight cardigan to throw over my shoulders. I still feel stylish and cool in the summer heat, while remaining respectful.

Blush at the Fountain of Shame

📍Piazza Pretoria
🕰️ 24/7

Located in Piazza Pretoria, Fontana Pretoria represents the twelve Olympians from Greek mythology, alongside other mythological figures, animals, and the rivers of Palermo. Despite this grandeur, the fountain was long seen as a symbol of corruption in Palermo. Combined with the nudity of the statues, this led locals to nickname the square Piazza della Vergogna – the Square of Shame.

However, Piazza Pretoria isn’t the fountain’s original spot. It was created in 1554 for the garden of Don Luigi de Toledo in Florence. By 1573, Luigi had fallen deep into debt and was forced to sell the fountain to the city of Palermo. The dismantled fountain arrived incomplete and damaged, and work began to restore it. In 1581, it was finally completed in its new home.

Four Seasons in One Square – Quattro Canti

📍Piazza Vigliena
🕰️ 24/7

Quattro Canti (Piazza Vigliena) is a Baroque square which at the intersection of Palermo’s four ancient quarters (quattro canti): Kalsa, Seralcadi, Albergaria, and Castellammare. Each corner is adorned with concave Baroque facades, arranged across four levels: fountains representing the four seasons, statues of the four Spanish rulers of Sicily, figures of the four female patron saints of Palermo, and three coats of arms: Royal in the centre, with Viceregal and Palermo Senate on either side.

Roam if You Want To

Risorgimento Museum (L) and Chiesa di San Cataldo (R)

I like to lose myself in the streets of whatever city, village, or town I am in; and that’s exactly what I did as soon as I arrived in Palermo. I spent the afternoon and early evening simply roaming the streets and alleys, spotting interesting buildings and coming across quirky shops that wouldn’t necessarily appear in any travel guide. On the two full days I had dedicated to planned sights, I still found myself ducking down any alleys and side streets that caught my attention, sending Google maps into a spin.

Church of San Giuseppe dei Padri Teatini (L), Chiesa di Sant’Orsola dei Negri (C), Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Genovesi (L)

My wanderings led me to this amazing shop, The Island (via Vittorio Emanuele, 366) which sells items handcrafted by Palermo artisans and artists. I brought a beautiful handmade Santa Rosalia tile and a magnet by Toscher Design. The tile now moves from room to room whenever I need a little lift, and if it hadn’t been for my endless curiosity, I would never have found it.

As a solo female traveller, I found Palermo to be safe during the day and early evening, though I always kept my wits about me. In the evenings, I didn’t venture too far from my Airbnb, as it was slightly outside the main centre but I did dine locally nearby.

Sample the Local Street Food

Palermo is renowned for its street food, featuring Sicilian staples like arancine (rice balls), pane con panelle e crocché (chickpea fritters and potato croquettes in a bun), sfincione (Palermo’s version of pizza), and pain câ meusa (spleen sandwich). You can find these in food markets or the many cafés that line the streets of Palermo. As mentioned earlier, I didn’t have much of an appetite during my time in the city, but it did return my final evening.

On my way back to my apartment after a day of exploring, I came across a cafe selling pane con panelle e crocché for €2. I wish I could remember the name of the café because it was delicious and extremely moreish, perhaps I need to go back to Palermo just to find it again. It was carb-tastic and the perfect meal for a post-COVID appetite.

For arancine, I went to Ke Palle, an arancineria selling a wide variety of flavours, including vegan and vegetarian options. They say you should always go where the locals go, and Ke Palle certainly seemed popular with Palermitans. When I visited, I tried the vegan ragú and spinach and cheese; both of which were delicious.

Getting Home

Of course you are going to find your own way home, but I can’t quite end this journey with me simply eating arancine especially after an epic rail journey through Italy.

It would have been the dream to head back to London via train, and I did consider it. Travel to Rome via the ‘Train that Goes on a Boat’, then on to Milan to catch the high-speed Frecciarossa to Paris, eventually finding myself on the Eurostar back to London. Alas, I have a full-time job with a limited amount of annual leave, so it a flight home on EasyJet to London Gatwick.

Getting to Palermo Airport (Falcone e Borsellino) from Palermo Centrale was easy. There are regular trains running between the central station and the airport – two per hour – with tickets costing €6.80 for an adult ticket.

The experience at the airport was thankfully uneventful; check-in, pass through security, and head to the gate. Mount Etna had decided to erupt, closing Catania airport which meant the flight was busy with people looking for alternative routes home. The couple I got chatting to had travelled for eight hours, jumping on whatever train they could get a seat on. I understand that if you’ve got to get, you’ve got to get home! Though if it were me, I’d probably take it as an excuse to spend a little longer time in Sicily.

Reflections

I’m not the ideal person to give my definitive thoughts on Palermo. I found the city overwhelming; the traffic, the crowds, the noise. However, I did find myself settling into it on my final day. While I was ready to go home, I also found myself wishing for an extra day or two to see Palermo for what it really is, not through a post-COVID haze.

When I look back at my photos, all I see is beauty, and I feel a longing to return. I can’t say for sure if I will, but I do want to explore more of Sicily, and I think Palermo would be an excellent starting point for discovering the western and northern parts of the island.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴