All Aboard: My Epic Train Journey Through Italy

I even mapped out a route to follow in his footsteps, but then the pandemic happened, and all bucket-list trips were forgotten – any kind of travel was forgotten. When I finally felt ready to explore again, I revisited my old wanderlust list. Unlike, Byron, I wasn’t feeling England in disgrace, and thankfully, I had the luxury of Italy’s incredible rail network (give or take a few delays). As I meticulously planned my route, I stumbled upon something extraordinary; a train that boards a ferry cross the sea to Sicily. A TRAIN THAT GOES ON AN ACTUAL BOAT! There was no way I was missing that.

So, I improvised. Instead of following Byron’s entire journey, I took inspiration from his time in La Spezia and Genoa, then made my way to Rome, where I hopped on the InterCity Notte to Sicily.

My Italy by Train Itinerary – At a Glance

🚄Day 1 – London to Zurich (via Paris)

• Eurostar from London to Paris (quick change at Gare de Lyon to Gare du Nord)
• Evening train to Zurich (after an extremely long delay) for one night to rest and reset before the scenic journey ahead

🚞 Day 2 – Zurich to Tirano (via Chur)

• A morning exploring Zurich before taking a regional train to Chur to board the Bernina Express for a jaw-dropping ride over the Alps
• Arrived in Tirano (Italy!) for a well-earned delicious bowl of the best pasta dish I have ever eaten

🚄Day 3 Tirano to La Spezia (via Milan)

• Replacement bus service to Colico before a breath-taking train journey through the Italian Lakes
• Arrived in La Spezia (after a quick change in Milan) in time for an evening stroll along the harbour

🏞️Day 4 – 6 Exploring the Ligurian Coast from La Spezia

• Hopped between the postcode-perfect villages of the Cinque Terre by train
• Took a day day trip to Genoa for a taste of culture, history, and really good focaccia
• Sailed to Porto Venere for my Byron moment by the sea

🚞 Day 7 La Spezia to Florence

• Arrived in Florence and wandered through the stunning Basilica of Santa Maria Novella while waiting to check into my Airbnb
• Enjoyed an evening at the lively Mercato Centrale with a slice of authentic Florentine pizza, ending the day wandering through Florence at sunset

🏛️Day 8 Florence

• A 36-hour whirlwind through Florence’s art, architecture, and gelato scene

🚄Day 9 Florence to Rome to Sicily (COVID Edition)

• Morning tour of the Colosseum (tickets were tough to secure!)
• Took a ride on the hop-on hop-off bus (masked and hoping to get over what I thought was a bad migraine), until it was time to board the sleeper train to Sicily.

🌅Day 10 – 12 Syracuse, Sicily

• Spent most of my time in COVID isolation, only venturing out briefly on my final day.

🛤️Day 13 Syracuse to Palermo

• A stunningly scenic train ride along Sicily’s coastline, made all the more surreal by the soft blur of a see-through window shade and a firmly-worn mask

🌴Day 14 – 16 Palermo

• With my health restored, I full embraced Palermo’s cultural and culinary delights – from street food markets to baroque architecture

Stop-by-Stop Highlights: My Italy by Train Journey

Zurich & Chur, Switzerland

A fleeting stop in Switzerland’s picturesque capital city

Highlights

• A serene morning stroll by the Limmat River, ending with a coffee and pastry from Miró Coffee, a I watched Zurich ease into the day
• The stunning train ride to Chur, gliding along the shores of Lakes Zurich and Walensee – calm, clear, and impossibly scenic

Bernina Express and Tirano

A beautiful summer’s day journey through the Swiss Alps.

Highlights

• A journey so iconic it truly left me speechless; the Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano was everything I imagined and more
• Tirano completely exceeded expectations; a charming little village with a lot more character than just being the end of the Bernina line
• I discovered Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese – a hearty buckwheat pasta dish – and it might just be the most delicious plate of pasta I have ever had

Ligurian Coast

Drenched days by the seaside, poetic happenings, and fantastically delicious food

Highlights

• Village hopping through the Cinque Terre in torrential rain which turned a bustling hotspot into a peaceful – if soggy – paradise
• A day tripping to Genoa brought unforgettable food and a stunning showcase of grand architecture
• Poetically parading around Porto Venere like Byron himself

Florence

Returning to my favourite Italian city

Highlights

• Mercato Centrale! Despite a long list of restaurant recommendations, I ended up there both nights for dinner. The food was just that good.
• Spending the day wandering without a checklist, letting Florence reveal itself slowly, one beautiful piazza and sun-drenched façade at a time

Rome

The start of something wicked coming this way!

Highlights

• Achieved the one goal that mattered! Finally secured a Colosseum ticket after days of refreshing the website, success struck in Florence the night before, and I barely made it!
• A sad lowlight – Falling ill with what I assumed was just a migraine, no hotel to retreat to before the night train. I spent the afternoon going round and round on a Hop On Hop Off bus.

Sicily: Syracuse and Palermo

Train on Boat, lemons, pistachios, prickly pears, and a massive change in plans!

Highlights

• Walking up with a jolt as the train shuddered onto the ferry, peering out the window to realise I was now in the cargo hold of a boat, on a train, crossing the sea to Sicily. Surreal and unforgettable.
• That one golden afternoon in Syracuse when I finally felt well enough to leave my bed and gently stroll along the coastline – slow, quiet, but so needed
• Making up for lost time in Palermo – falling in love with Sicilian cuisine, soaking in the culture and sunshine, and the energy of the city
• Most of all, feeling like me again after four long days of COVID – still tired but deeply overjoyed that it was all over

Best Train Experiences of the Trip

Bernina Express: Chur, Switzerland to Tirano, Italy

This four-hour journey along the Rhaetian Railway – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is without a doubt one of the most spectacular I’ve ever taken. I struck it lucky with the weather – it was a glorious summer’ day, and the panoramic windows gave me uninterrupted views of everything from turquoise lakes and dramatic waterfalls to bare alpine landscapes and towering peaks. The route winds through the Swiss Alps, past glaciers and over dizzying viaducts, it’s like travelling through a living postcard.

Highlight: Maybe I’m easily impressed, but the Brusio spiral viaduct genuinely blew me away. Watching the train curve around itself in a perfect loop was just so satisfying.

Top Tip: With a little strategic booking, you can nab a First Class ticket for around, £50/€58. The 1st class layout includes solo seats on one side of the aisle, perfect if you’re travelling alone and want space (and uninterrupted views!) to yourself.

Colico to Milan

I had zero expectations for this leg; I assumed it would be a standard regional train journey with little to see. To be honest, I was initially disappointed. A (late) rail replacement bus between Tirano and Colico set the tone (rail replacement services are the bane of my weekends back home in London!) But once I boarded the train at Colico to Milan, things changed. The train hugged the edge of Lake Como, offering absolutely stunning views that I wasn’t prepared for, proving that, sometimes, the best moments are the ones you don’t plan.

Highlight: The unexpected journey alongside Lake Como! Calm, scenic, and quietly spectacular.

Top Tip: If you’re heading south toward Milan, nab a window seat on the right-hand side (in the direction of travel) for the best lake views.

Cinque Terre Express

This charming hop-on, hop-off rail service connect the five postcard-perfect, UNESCO-listed villages of the Cinque Terre National Park. The “express” part refers more to the convenience than speed, each ride between villages takes just 5 to 10 minutes, making it incredibly easy to explore them all in a single day. Just don’t do what I did and get so distracted by the beautiful coastline views that you miss your planned stop completely. Whoops!

Highlight: I couldn’t pick just one, the entire journey surpassed my expectations. From tunnels that open to cliffside vistas to colourful villages tucked between sea and mountains, it’s magic from start to finish.

Top Tip: Buy the Cinque Terre Treno MS card! It gives you unlimited train travel on the La Spezia and Levanto, free access to the paid hiking trails, and even lets you into the train station toilets without scrambling for coins. Worth every penny!

InterCity Notte – Rome to Sicily (Syracuse)

This journey had all the markings of an unforgettable experience; the romantic idea of drifting off to sleep in historic Rome and waking up to a Sicilian sunrise by the sea. I’d even imagined myself waking briefly to step out on the ferry deck as the train crossed the Strait of Messina, a surreal experience in itself But then, COVID hit.

Instead of my peaceful sleep train fantasy, I could myself battling sickness in a smelly train toilet , eventually throwing up all over myself. To top it off, the train was delayed by four hours, with no clear communication from Trenitalia. All I wanted was to crawl into my cabin and sleep, but instead, I was stuck in limbo with zero updates.

Still, despite everything, I would recommend this journey. It’s an iconic ride and one-of-a-kind in Europe. I only hope you don’t have the same experience as mine.

Highlight: Crossing the Strait of Messina with the train loaded onto a ferry. A surreal and strangely healing moment after a rough night.

Top Tip: This journey is 11 hours, with limited onboard services. Bring your own food, snacks, and water. There is no WiFi, and it’s a gamble whether a cafè car or refreshment trolley will appear. If you’re when to travel opt for overnight – you’ll save on accommodation, and by the time you reach southern Italy, the views along the coastline to Syracuse are incredible. Plus, you get a little goodie bag with toiletries and a light breakfast.

Final Thoughts & What’s Next

This trip was more than just a journey through Italy, it was a reminder of why I love travelling by train, and why I love travelling. Until then, I’d only dipped my toes back into travel with the occasional short break, but this was something else entirely. Yes, my worst fears came true and I did get COVID, but from the wonder of the Bernina Express to unexpectedly falling in love with the slower pace of Sicilian life, this trip gave me memories I’ll never forget.

While this post is all about the experience, my next one is for the planners. I’ll be sharing exactly how I pieced it all together – routes, apps seat picks, timing, railcards, minor meltdowns, and the deep joy of watching it all come together in my beloved Excel travel planner.

Happy & safe travels

L x👣