Riding the Bernina Express: A Rail Journey Through the Alps

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But a couple of weeks before I was due to leave, I caught COVID. I recovered from the worst of it, but then it just plateaued. I wasn’t fully well, but I wasn’t quite sick enough to cancel either. On top of that, I was dealing with other ongoing health problems, nothing serious, but enough to cast a shadow.

So why I am starting this post (and first in a series about one of the best trips of my life) with that? Because it explains why I seem so subdued. There were moments I knew I should have been having the time of my life, but all I wanted was to be home, curled up in my duvet, in my own bed. I didn’t take as many photos as I usually would, and most of the ones I did take weren’t perfect. In fact, I have hardly any photos of what was the whole point of the trip, the train travel.

Now you know the full picture, let’s get to it, starting with one of the most iconic train journeys in the world: the Bernina Express.

All Aboard for the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a panoramic train which connects Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy. This tourist train runs for four hours along the Rhaetian Railway including the UNESCO listed Albula and Bernina lines, through Swiss Alps, pass icy glaciers, and over spectacular viaducts . All carriages have panoramic windows allowing all to view the wonders that pass by. Tickets and seat reservations can be purchased directly via the Rhaetian Railway website or you can get cheaper tickets by following the The Man in Seat 61’s clever guide. The latter I highly recommend – by following this guide I saved 34% on a first-class ticket.

London to Zurich: The Scenic Prelude

I’ve always been a big fan of the Eurostar. It’s convenient, efficient, and often underrated as a travel experience. Even during delays, I’ve felt genuinely cared for. I’ll never forget the time I faced major delays with the last train from Lille. I made a beeline for the cafè car to grab a red wine, and the crew member said, “You definitely deserve this, there’s more here if you need it”. That little gesture transformed a stressful situation into one filled with camaraderie. There was a shared sense of “we’re in this together” between passengers and crew.

That said, I’m not a fan of the prices. Sustainable travel should be more accessible, and I hope the introduction of new rail services from UK to Europe will spark healthier competition. The fact that future prices might be more competitive is fantastic news, for both travellers and the planet.

St Pancras International Train Station, the Eurostars London home, adds to the experience. Sleek and modern, it’s perfect for a last minute shopping spree or pre-travel bit to eat. My personal ritual? A stop at Boots to buy forgotten toiletries, a quick dash to the ATM for Euros, then coffee and pastry from whichever café is least crowded (or smells the best).

A Misadventure in Paris

Arriving in Paris, I had everything timed to perfection. I had about 90 mins before my onward train from Gare du Lyon, and the plan was simple: freshen up, buy my RER ticket, hop on the metro, arrive at Gare de Lyon, check the board, pick up some food, and board the train to Zurich, get on the train. Voilà!

But, it didn’t quite go like that.

Once at Gare de Lyon, I went straight to the departure board, but my train wasn’t listed. Trying not to panic, I pivoted and went to Pret to get food for the journey (where I embarrassingly thanked the staff in Italian – idiota!). On the bright side, Pret in France is so much better than in the UK. I picked up a fresh salad, an American-style lemonade, and a little pastry treat for dessert!

Still no train on the board.

I lingered, watching people come and go, torn between leaving the station for a quick wander and staying put in case I missed my train. Thankfully, the Trainline app was showing a delay, so my anxiety eased (slightly). Eventually, around 8pm my 6:22pm train finally departed.

As night fell, so did my hopes of gazing out the window at the Swiss countryside. And my plans for exploring Zurich’s nightlife vanished too. When I arrived, Zürich Hauptbahnhof was quiet and all the food outlets were closed.

Thankfully, the station was easy to navigate. I stashed my big suitcase in the downstairs lockers, then crossed the road (from the main entrance) the road to figure out the trams. A kind Zürcher came to my rescue (Swiss hospitality is real!) and I made it to my hotel just after midnight.

A Whirlwind Morning in Zurich: Coffee, Kitsch, and Luxemburgerli

Even though I didn’t get to bed until after 1am, I couldn’t resist an early morning wander through Zurich. My stay at the Ibis Budget Zurich City West was perfectly adequate for a quick stopover. It was clean, quiet, and with the essentials: a comfy bed and a hot shower.

Despite my thorough Boots run back in London, I somehow forgot to pack deodorant. So my morning began with a quick mission to the nearest supermarket. It turned out to be a happy accident, in had an incredible bakery section, and I walked out with a flaky pastry for breakfast. Win!

I decided to walk into the city centre, a breezy 25-minute stroll that gave me the chance to explore Zurich’s quiet, stylish streets. At the central station, after buying my ticket to Chur, I realised something essential was missing: coffee! I made a beeline for Miró Coffee for my usual long black; strong, smooth, and exactly what I needed.

Realising I didn’t have time to visit a museum or gallery, I opted for a leisurely stroll along the Limmat River with my coffee in hand. It was a calm, cool morning, and the slow pace suited me perfectly. I made my way to Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, an old-school favourite for all things delightfully kitsch (I do love kitsch). Slightly overwhelmed by the options (and the prices), I left with a single magnet to add to my fridge collection.

Then it was back to the station, where I picked up my suitcase and made one final Swiss splurge; a box of luxemburgerli, from Confiserie Sprüngli.

Luxemburgerli are Switzerland’s airy and delicate answer to the French macaron, and they come with strict instructions; eat immediately. Which I did’nt. Mine made it to Tirano slightly squished but still delicious. I’d chosen a box of six in flavours like raspberry, pistachio, chocolate and hazelnut. And because I couldn’t resist, and with Confiserie Sprüngli being one of Switzerland’s best chocolatiers, I also picked up a decorative tin of pralines, both a sweet treat and a keepsake.

Needing more coffee to see me through, I grabbed one more from Cafe Il Baretto in the station and boarded the train around 11am. That gave me just enough time to settle in, enjoy the views, and arrive in Chur with time to work out exactly where I needed to be for the start of the Bernina Express.

Riding the Rails to the Roof of Europe: The Bernina Express

Arriving in Chur was an absolute delight, the anticipation of finally boarding the Bernina Express was at an all time high. I was buzzing with excitement and practically skipped by way to the platform. First stop though, a quick visit to Coop Pronto on the station’s lower level to grab lunch and some snacks for the journey (you can buy food on the Bernina Express, but the menu is quite limited and pricey!).

My heart honestly skipped a beat when I saw the train. The red carriages gleaming under the Swiss sun, the panoramic windows stretching overhead, I couldn’t believe it was finally happening. I found my solo seat (facing opposite to the direction of travel) and settled in. We were given little gifts, a Bernina Express train-shaped tin with Swiss chocolate inside and a tiny carton of iced tea (which is still in my fridge – I’m probably not going to drink it now, but I can’t bring myself to throw is away either).

The journey from Chur began with gently rolling green valleys, which quickly gave way to a breath-taking alpine landscape. We crossed the Landwasser Viaduct, a 124 year-old engineering marvel that curved dramatically into the Landwasser Tunnel. Then came the Albula Tunnel, a 6km stretch that ushered us deeper into the heart of the mountains.

As we climbed higher through Pontresina and up to the Bernina Pass, the scenery shifted again. Green mountains turned into towering rocky peaks, laced with glaciers that spilled down their sides like frozen waterfalls. We passed Lago Bianco, the “White Lake”, shimmering in the sunlight, Our stop at Alp Grüm station (2,091m above sea level), gave us a moment to disembark and take in the breathtaking Palü Glacier. I was so tempted to follow the trail down toward the lake, and honestly, I would haven’t minded being stranded up there!

Onward we went, past the storybook-pretty village of Poschiavo, spiralling around the Brusio viaduct, and eventually descending into Tirano.

The only downside as that it ended.

If I could do one thing differently, I would’ve booked the morning train from Chur. It had already sold out by the time I reserved my seat, but the earlier departure would’ve let me continue my journey to La Spezia the same day. That said, I don’t regret it, it gave me a beautiful morning in Zurich, and a night in Tirano I wouldn’t otherwise had.

Tirano: A Welcoming Pause in the Valtellina Sun

The sun was still blazing in Tirano when we pulled into the station, even though it was 6pm. The heat, combined with two long travel days, hit me like a wall. The 11 minute-walk to my hotel felt like a never-ending desert trek.

Luckily, I wasn’t alone, the woman walking just ahead of me and I quickly realised we were both heading to Curt di Clement. We offered each other a few words of encouragement, trudging side by side like heat-struck pilgrims. When we finally arrived, the sight of Curt di Clement was like an oasis shimmering in the late sun.

We did the polite “no, you first”, dance at reception, and since she was technically walking ahead of me before we got chatting, I let her go ahead. The moment I stepped inside, I knew it was going to be a great stay, the refreshing blast of air conditioning may have helped. The staff were friendly and welcoming, even though their payment machines were down, they didn’t keep me waiting, They simply said “We’ll sort it at checkout,” and handed me the key.

I had booked a standard room, expecting just a clean bed and a hot shower, but there was nothing “standard” about it. It was spacious, tucked away in a quiet corner of the hotel, and luxuriously calm. Sure, there was no grand view, but after days of trains and transit, it felt like a retreat. Honestly, I wished I was staying longer.

After freshening up, I made my way to Parravicini for dinner (which came recommended by the hotel receptionist), where the warm welcome continued. I was offered a choice of seating, and opted for an indoor table to escape the lingering sun. Despite how busy they were, service was quick and attentive. I ordered Tirano’s local speciality, Pizzoccheri della Valtellina – a hearty buckwheat pasta dish with cheese, butter, garlic, sage, potatoes, and cabbage. It was carb-heavy comfort food at its finest. To go with it, I chose a Birra Dolomiti, a crisp Italian beer brewed in Pedavena at the foot of the Dolomiti Alps.

The portion was generous, too generous for my tired stomach! The waiter looked genuinely disappointed when I couldn’t finish, but I reassured her that it was hands-down one of the best pasta dishes I’d ever had. (Spoiler: it turned out to be the best meal of the whole trip).

Full and happy, I made my way back to the hotel for an early night, with just enough room left for dessert, my slightly squashed but still-delightful luxemburgerli from Zurich.

Practical Info: Booking & Tips

Planning an epic train journey like this can feel overwhelming, but with the right steps, and a few clever tricks, it’s totally doable. Here’s exactly how I booked my trip and some useful things I learnt along the way.

Train Tickets

You’ll find the full details on how I planned and booked my Italy by trip in:

Book at least 2 months in advance for the best prices. Here’s how I booked each leg:

• London to Paris: Booked directly via Eurostar. I took the 13:31 train, it was the cheapest early-ish option that day. If a morning train had been in budget, I definitely would’ve gone earlier.
• Paris to Zurich: Booked via Trainline for ease – it’s user-friendly and priced in my local currency. You can book this directly via TGV Lyria if you prefer.
• Bernina Express (Zurich to Tirano): I followed The Man in Seat 61’s brilliant method and saved 34% on a first class ticket! You must follow the steps carefully – without a reservation you won’t get far.

Step-by-step Bernina Express booking:

1. Reserve your seat via Rhaetian Railway
   • On the 3rd page of the booking process, under “Reduction”, select Reservation only.
2. Buy your ticket via German Railways: Best to follow The Man Seat 61’s step-by-step instructions here as he explains this better:
   • Search for a route from Singen (Hohentwiel) to Tirano.
   • Set your departure for the day before your actual Bernina Express trip
   • Set the departure time to 15:00.
   • Click on Stopovers and add Zurich with a stop time of 13h 30m
   • You’re looking for a route where your final train is PE951.
   • Do not add a seat reservation here – you’ve already booked that via Rhaetian Railway.

Best seat tips for the Bernina Express:

• In First Class, there’s space to move around for photos.
• For glacier and viaduct views:
  • Southbound (Chur to Tirano): sit on the right
  • Northbound (Tirano to Chur): sit on the left
• I spent time at the door for the best shots.

Where I Stayed

I wish I could say I had a some secret hack for finding these, but honestly, it came down to availability, budget, and where I’d feel most comfortable.

• Zurich: Ibis Budget Zurich City West – basic but comfortable. There’s a great supermarket nearby for train snacks!
• Tirano: Curt di Clement Eco Mobility Hotel – a peaceful oasis after a long travel day, with the friendliest staff.

What I’d Recommend

• Pack snacks for the Bernina Express – the scenery is the star, but your stomach with thank you.
• Book early if you want the morning Bernina Express, it does sell out.
• Solo travel friendly: I felt safe and welcome at every step of the journey
• Try the local dishes:
  • Pizzoccheri della Valtellina in Tirano – rich, hearty, unforgettable.
  • Luxemburgerli from Confiserie Sprüngli in Zurich – tiny clouds of joy.

Final Thoughts: A Detour That Became the Destination

The Bernina Express wasn’t on some long-held bucket list, in fact, I stumbled across it while planning my Italy by Rail trip. It was a detour, a “why not?” moment that ended up becoming the most extraordinary part of the journey.

I didn’t know quite what to expect, but what I found was pure joy; glacier views that made me gasp, quiet moments by train windows, kind fellow travellers, and the strange, lovely sense of being exactly where you’re meant to be, even if you didn’t know you were heading there.

Of course, not everything was seamless. I felt a bit under the weather and arrived in Tirano practically melting from the heat. But none of that took away from the magic, in fact, it added to the story.

This part of the trip reminded me that the best adventures often aren’t the ones you meticulously plan, but the ones you say yes to on a whim.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴