One Day in Genoa: A City of Contrasts

But travel loves to throw a spanner in even the best-laid plans. The morning Bernina Express was sold out, and with no connecting trains or buses from Tirano after the late train arrived, I could myself unexpectedly spending the night in that Alpine town (not that I minded, it was a lovely detour).

By the time I reached Liguria, there were weather warnings for the entirety of my stay. Ferries were cancelled and the hiking trails in the Cinque Terre were deemed unsafe. With the weather moving into its second storm-ridden day, I made a snap decision; Genoa was back on the cards, this time as a spontaneous day trip. I dusted off the notes I’d made for my original Genoa plans, quickly pieced together an itinerary, and headed to the station, ready to start my Genoese adventure.

Getting There

Getting to Genoa from La Spezia was a breeze – literally. You have two main options: the FrecciaBianca, which takes just under an hour and costs around €16 one way, or the regional train, which takes abut 90 minutes and costs €9.70. Personally, I think the extra 30 minutes is well worth the saving.

I brought my ticket to Genova Brignole (more on why I chose that station below) at La Spezia Centrale. With the storms, I didn’t want to risk a last-minute cancellation and be stuck with a non-refundable ticket from the Trenitalia app. The ticket machines at the station were easy to use, says she who takes a lot of trains (though I still struggle with some machines!).

What I hadn’t factored in was the queues at each machine. I grabbed a coffee from the station café and chose what I thought was the fastest line (I should know to pick the line to opposite to my decision, I’m never right). After an anxious wait, it was finally my turn. Having watched people ahead of me make their purchase I was confident I knew what to do, also the ticket machines have an English language option. Just as I needed to pay for my purchase, the man behind me began to explain how to use the card machine – how to put my card in the machine and enter my pin number etc.

“Are you local?” I asked as I tapped my card on the contactless reader (I think this is what confused him, that I wasn’t putting my card in the machine).

“No, we’re visiting from America” he replied enthusiastically.

“Oh, so you’ve used the machine before?”

“No, it’s our first time taking the train”, he said, just as his girlfriend punched him in the arm.

“Okay then, good luck with the machine … see you on the train”, I smiled, skipping off with ticket in hand.

Top tip: If you’re travelling on a regional train with a paper ticket – VALIDATE IT. The Italian train conductors are ruthless and do not make exceptions, even for tourists. Oh, and only offer help if someone’s actually struggling.

On this trip, I witnessed a group of tourists get kicked off the train after trying to argue and jab their way out of an unvalidated ticket. The conductor simply said, “No. Bye, bye,” and left them on the platform looking stunned.

Most regional paper tickets aren’t time or date-specific, which is why they need to be stamped at the green and white validation machines before boarding. You don’t need to validate if you’ve purchased your ticket online or via the Trenitalia app. So validate or risk a hefty fine, or getting kicked off the train.

Exploring Genoa

My starting point was Genova Brignole train station. From there, I wandered and weaved through piazzas and palaces, caruggi and cathedrals, promenades and ports, and finally up to panoramic viewpoints – until I reached Genova Piazza Principe station for my journey home.

Piazza della Vittoria

My first stop was, Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), just a few steps from Genova Brignole station. At its centre stands a grand arch which is dedicated to the Genoese who fell during World War I.

Gazing through the arch, you’ll spot La Scalinata del Milite Ignoto (the Staircase of the Unknown Solider), though the locals affectionately Scalinata delle Caravelle – the Staircase of the Three Caravels. The four flower beds here hold symbolic meaning: three represent Columbus’s famous ships; the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria. The fourth displays three anchors, one for each vessel.

Via XX Settembre

One of Genoa’s grandest boulevards, Via XX Settembre stretches from Piazza della Vittori to Piazza De Ferrari, lined with shops, elegant cafés, and some the city’s most striking architecture. But it was the stretch between Monumental Bridge and Piazza De Ferrari that truly blew me away, with its towering porticoes and intricate Venetian mosaic floors.

Piazza De Ferrari

Leaving the elegant porticoes of Via XX Settembre (still wondering why everything was closed), I arrived at Piazza De Ferrari, Genoa’s grand central square and the point where the modern city meets its historic heart. Named after Italian banker and politician Raffaele De Ferrari, the piazza is surrounded by historic a mix of historic architecture, including theTeatro Carlo Felice, the ornate Palazzo della Borsa Valori (the former stock exchange), Palazzo della Regione Liguria, the Doge’s Palace, and Palazzo Doria de Ferrari-Galliera, to name just a few.

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo

A cathedral has stood on this spot since the 11th century, but the striking white and black striped you see today dates from the 14th century, rebuilt following a devastating fire. Cattedrale di San Lorenzo dedicated to Saint Lawrence the Martyr, is one of Genoa’s most iconic landmarks. It also hold the relics of San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist), the city’s patron saint, brought to Genoa at the end of the First Crusade.

Legend has it there’s a little dog carved into the marble near the right-hand doors, a tribute to the loyal pup who kept the sculptors company during construction. I searched high and low but couldn’t spot it, maybe you’ll have better luck!

I visited on a Sunday (which explains why everything else was closed!) so most of the cathedral was roped off while they prepared for Mass. Still, they allowed visitors a peek inside to admire the cool, cavernous interior from just beyond the nave.

Lunch

Having finally worked out that it was Sunday, and that was why everything was closed, I made my way to Zimino (Vico delle Suole Pie, 4), hoping with all my heart that it would be open. Alas, no such luck. In Italy, Sunday openings are usually reserved for businesses that cater heavily to tourists. If you happen to be in Genoa on any other day, Zimino is a great spot for affordable, authentic Ligurian cuisine.

Undeterred, I set myself a mission; find Genoese focaccia. In Genoa, focaccia is practically a way of life. It’s eaten warm and often wet; dipped into milk or cappuccino at breakfast, or enjoyed plain or topped later in the day. I wanted something hearty, so I was after focaccia with toppings.

Most focacceria I passed had long queues of tourists out the door, and with still so much left on my itinerary, I couldn’t afford to spend half the afternoon waiting. On my way down to Porto Antico, I spotted a place bustling with locals enjoying their lunch outside, always a good sign. That place turned out to be Il Fornaio!

Just steps from the waterfront, Il Fornaio specialises in focaccia sold by weight. I grabbed a generous slab topped with potato, cheese, and mushrooms warm, satisfying, and just what I needed after a morning of sightseeing. They had all sorts of toppings and the smell alone was enough to lure you in from the street.

The Porto Antico

I didn’t spend long exploring the port, but I did take some time to relax and enjoy a bit of people-watching while eating my delicious focaccia lunch.

If you have more time, Porto Antico has plenty to offer; from cafés, restaurants, and bars to attractions like the Aquarium of Genoa, the Bigo panoramic lift, and the Biosphere, a striking glass dome filled with tropical plants and wildlife (I wish I had taken the time to do this).

Caruggi of Molo

The Caruggi are a labyrinth of narrow alleys that make up Genoa’s Old Town. They’re divided into two main areas, Molo, near the port, and Maddalena, which is more residential. This section focuses on my experience wandering through Molo – I’ll share more on Maddalena later in the post.

At first glance, the buildings lining these narrow lanes may appear run-down or grimy, but don’t be fooled. Many were built by Genoa’s wealthy families. Unlike other grand European cities, Genoa’s elite didn’t flaunt their wealth through extravagant facades. Walking down these alleys, you’re stepping into the heart of Genoese heritage.

Tucked away in these alleys, you’ll find small shops, cafès, votive shrines, and historic landmarks. If you look closely, you’ll spot ghost signs, reflecting the rich history of the Carruggi, along with sculpted portals and religious icons embedded into the walls.

One place I’d planned to visit was Romanengo, a historic confectioner known for candied fruits and traditional sweets. Sadly, it was closed during my visit (Sunday strikes again), but it’s high on my list for next time. If you go, I recommended visiting early as queues can be quite common.

On a more serious note, I want to be honest about my personal experience. As a woman travelling solo, I didn’t feel entirely safe in the Caruggi, particularly around parts of Molo. While I wasn’t approached or harassed, I felt uneasy in certain area, especially around Vico della Rosa, Via della Maddalena, and Via del Campo, which form part of the city’s red light district. At one point, I was fairly certain someone was following me. When I did find myself in this area, I turned back toward a more populated area, and everything was fine. The moment did shake me a little, mostly because it was so unexpected.

My advice? If you’re at all unsure, consider joining a guided walking tour; it’s a great way to explore the Caruggi with context and confidence. And as with any city, stay aware of your surroundings and keep an eye on your belongings.

Basilica della Santissima Annunziata del Vastato

Genoa’s catholic cathedral, the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata del Vastato, is a breathtaking showcase of Baroque artistry, cloaked behind a surprisingly modest neoclassical façade. Step through its doors and you’re immediately hit by an opulent display of gold-gilded walls, intricate marble reliefs, and masterpieces by renowned Genoese Baroque artists, including Giovanni Benedetto Castiglione, Giovanni Bernardo Carbone, Valerio Castello, and Domenico Piola, to name just a few. Venture further into the cathedral and look beneath the dome to admire the stunning frescoes by Andrea Ansaldo.

Truogoli di Santa Brigida

After visiting the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata del Vastato, I made my way up Via Balbi toward the Carruggi of Maddalena and Via Garibaldi. Along this stretch, you’ll find two notable sights: the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) and the historic Truogoli di Santa Brigida.

Unfortunately, the Palazzo Reale was closed during my visit. From the outside, especially from Via Balbi, it doesn’t look particular grand, but don’t let that fool you. Step inside, and you’ll be met with the kind of opulence that Genoa excels at hiding behind unassuming façades.

Just before reaching the palace, look to your right for a small archway. Through it lies a colourful alleyway where a quiet little square sits. This is home to the Truogoli di Santa Brigida, one of city’s surviving washrooms, now sheltered beneath an iron canopy.

Built in 1656 with support from the Balbi family, the washroom was created to provide the Genoese with clean water sourced from the Santa Brigida river. While no longer in use, it stands as a beautiful relief of the city’s past, tucked away, yet very much part of Genoa’s living history.

Via Garibaldi/Caruggi of Maddalena

Part of Genoa’s UNESCO World Heritage site, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi is one of the three Strade Nuove (New Streets), alongside Via Balbi and Via Cairoli. These street were created by Genoa’s aristocracy during the city’s golden age as a financial and maritime powerhouse. Built between 1558 and 1583, Via Garibaldi alone is home to 12 of the 42 Palazzi dei Rolli – grand residences once used to host visiting dignitaries and royals. Some of these palaces now house museum and galleries, meaning you can visit them.

The Strade Nuove cut through the Maddalena district, and I wandered through the Caruggi that branch off Via Garibaldi, I noticed how different they felt from the ones I’d walked in Molo. These alleys in upper Maddalena were quieter, more residential, and felt noticeably more gentrified.

I did feel much safer here than I had in Molo. That said, I did spot a group of pickpockets patrolling Via Garibaldi, so keep your belongings close and stay alert, especially your phone. I usually do what I do back in London; make firm eye contact to let them know I’ve clocked them.

Spianata Castelletto

Spianata Castelletto was my favourite experience in Genoa, I only wish I’d discovered it earlier! I arrived late in the afternoon, around 4pm, and the clock ticking toward my return train to La Spezia, I didn’t have as much time as I would’ve liked to soak it all in. If you can, care out a few hours for this area; the Castelletto neighbourhood is full of charm, and the view alone are worth lingering for.

Even as the rain made a comeback, this peace hilltop lookout felt magical. There is a great gelateria, Ancient Gelateria Guarino, where you buy an ice-cream or drink and take in the sweeping panorama over Genoa’s rooftops, the Porto Antico, and the palaces of Strade Nuove.

To get there, you’ve got two option: tackle the steep lanes and stairs; or take the scenic route via the Art Nouveau lift. If I were you, I’d choose the lift. It’s not only practical but absolutely beautiful. You can always take the path down afterwards.

You’ll need a ticket to use the lift (purchased on-site, and reasonably priced). To find it: from the end of Via Garibaldi (heading away from Via Balbi and Via Cairoli), turn left onto Via Interiano. You’ll see two stations – the one of your left is Portello-Castelleto, which takes you to the Spianata. The other one on your right is the Sant’Anna funicular, which leads elsewhere (Corso Magenta, in case you’re curious). Take the lift, and at the top, you’ll be rewards with some of the best views in all of Genoa.

A Glimpse of Genoa

Feeling tired and a little wary after a packed day, I made my way up Via Balbi to catch my return train from Genova Piazza Principe, the city’s main train station. Just before I boarded, I spotted the charming independently owned Gelateria Balbi, and of course, I had to treat myself. A scoop each of pistachio and strawberry gelato was the perfect sweet ending to my Genoese adventure.

At the time, I was pleased I’d opted for a day trip rather than a multi-day stay. But as I wrote this post, I’ve realised just how much I missed, and how much I’d genuinely love to return. The Palazzi dei Rolli, the charming Castelleto neighbourhood, and a deeper dive into the Genoese food scene all remain unfinished business. Genoa surprised me; those grand palaces were like nothing I’ve seen anywhere else in Italy or the world. Maybe one day, I’ll return for a long weekend. Let’s just call this visit my introduction to Genoa.

As I’ve mentioned throughout this series, I wasn’t feeling well during this trip, which I think clouded my some of my impressions. However, I’m certain I wouldn’t be in rush to revisit the Caruggi of Molo. For an area that features so heavily in “must see” articles, I found parts of it …. well, less than inviting. But every city has its contradictions, and Genoa wears them boldly, baroque splendour on one street, gritty realness on the next.

Practical Tips for Visiting Genoa

• Train Stations: Genova Piazza Principe is the main station, but Genova Brignole is more central for many sightseeing spots.
• Validate Paper Tickets: Regional train tickets must be stamped at the green/white machines before boarding.
• Palazzi dei Rolli: Check for special Rolli Days when more palaces are open to the public, usually held in spring and autumn.
• Stay Aware: Be mindful of pickpockets, especially along Via Garibaldi and in the Carruggi.
• Lift to Castelletto: Take the Art Nouveau lift from Portello-Castelletto station; beautiful, inexpensive, and saves your legs!
• Sunday Closures: Many attractions (and restaurants) close on Sundays, so plan accordingly if you’re a weekend visitor.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴