How I Planned My Italy by Train Trip

💡 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book something through them—at no extra cost to you. I only ever recommend services I’ve personally used and loved. Thanks for supporting Barefoot in Jandals!

One day, while on the Eurostar to Rotterdam, I had a moment of inspiration. Sat comfortably with the countryside zipping past, I decided I wanted my next adventure to be by train only. With all the talk around sustainable travel, it felt like the perfect time to truly embrace it, no planes, just tracks and time. But where to go? Before the pandemic, most of my travels had taken me to the Americas, New Zealand, and Scandinavia. I hadn’t explored mainland Europe properly since my teenage backpacking days. I was curious, how would it feel to rediscover these countries as an adult? Would I approach European travel differently with a more seasoned sense of wonder.

As mentioned in my post All Aboard: My Epic Train Journey Through Italy, I started by revisiting my bucket list. Byron’s Italian Footsteps trip, an itinerary inspired by the poet’s travel, stood out as a poetic and cultural route. So I began mapping out a rail journey around it.

That’s when things changed. While tracing the tracks, I stumbled across two iconic railways that completely reshaped my plans: the legendary Bernina Express and the surreal Rome-to-Sicily train that literally boards a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina. I knew I had to experience them both.

And so, I set Bryon aside, and instead planned a rail adventure that would take me from the top of Italy’s northernmost corner (Tirano, the Italian end of the Bernina Express) all the way to its southernmost tip , Sicily. A train journey through the heart of and soul of Italy.

Mapping the Route

Planning a multi-stop journey can be exciting and also overwhelming, especially when you keep stumbling across even more magical possibilities than you originally imagined.

My starting point? A Google Map I created back in 2016, tracing the places Lord Byron had visited in Italy. I dusted it off and began mapping out the modern-day rail connections between those stops to see what was doable by public transport.

But as I dove deeper into Italy’s rail network, I discovered a whole world of scenic, iconic train routes, some I had never heard of. That’s when the idea shifted; this wasn’t just going to be a means of getting to A to B. The journey itself had to be part of the experience.

So I created a new map, layering these legendary rail routes over my Byron-inspired itinerary.

And with that, my priorities were clear. I would build the route around three dream train experiences:

• The Bernina Express – An alpine wonder winding through Switzerland into Northern Italy
• The Cinque Terre Express – Hugging the cliffs and coastlines between five pastel-coloured villages.
• Rome to Sicily sleeper – My absolute dream rail journey where the train boards a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina.

I still wanted to keep a bit of Byron’s romantic Italy, so I included day trips to Genoa and Porto Venere, and made time for one of my personal favourites, Florence.

With my dream rail route mapped out, it was time to fit everything into the two and a half weeks i had carved out from annual leave. First, I checked the Eurostar prices, midweek is always cheaper, so I planned the rest around that.

Then came the real puzzle: days, routes, timings, and of course, budget. I turned to my trusty Excel travel planner to track it all; stop durations, train times, accommodation costs, and total spend. It helped me realise that if I wanted enough time in both Liguria and Sicily, I’d need to extend the trip beyond my initial two weeks.

A few tweaks later (some early trains here, a luggage storage there) and I finally had an itinerary that worked.

Booking the Trains

Before I get into the details, I want to give a special shout out to The Man In Seat Sixty-One. His guide to travel in Italy became my unofficial bible while planning this trip. It’s packed with practical tips, including how to get the best ticket deals. Honestly, I probably wouldn’t have pulled this off so smoothly without it.

Here is the full route I took, with links to the sites I used to book each leg go the journey. These were a mix of direct websites (Eurostar and Trenitalia), booking sites (Trainline), and the apps of them all.

Date	Depart	Arrive	Route/Stop	Booking Site(s)
24th Aug	13:31	16:47	London – Paris	Eurostar
	18:22	20:26	Paris – Zurich	Trainline
25th Aug	11:00	13:00	Zurich – Chur	See below
	13:34	17:59	Chur – Tirano	Bernina Express / German Railways
26th Aug	08:50	15:21	Tirano – La Spezia	Trenitalia
27th Aug	–	–	La Spezia – Genoa	Brought ticket at La Spezia station
28th Aug	–	–	Cinque Terre Express	Parco Nazionale Cinque Terre
29th Aug	–	–	La Spezia – Porto Venere (via Ferry)	Navigazione Golfodei Poeti
30th Aug	10:13	12:01	La Spezia – Florence	Trainline
1st Sep	10:03	11:35	Florence – Rome	Trainline
	20:16	09:01	Rome – Siracusa	Trainline
5th Sep	08:49	15:23	Siracusa – Palermo	Trainline
8th Sept	10:20	12:20	Home to London (via plane)	EasyJet

Booking Platforms Used

When it comes to choosing a platform to book trains, I usually weigh up convenience vs cost. I’m all about the best deal, but I also want it be hassle-free. A few things I always check before booking:

• Are there booking fees?
• Will I get an e-ticket (my preference – harder to lose) or do I need to collect at the station?
• What currency will I be charged in? (Some platforms charge in GBP, others in EUR – and your bank may add a conversion fee)

With that in mind, here are the platforms I used to different parts of the trip and why.

🚆Booking Direct with Train Companies

• Eurostar – The price was the same as on the other platforms, but booking direct meant I could collect points through their Club Eurostar loyalty scheme.
• German Railways (DB) and Bernina Express – I followed The Man in Seat 61’s clever way to book which resulted in a 34% saving on a first class ticket. Definitely one of my best booking wins!
• Trenitalia – There were rail replacement buses running on the day I was travelling from Tirano to La Spezia. Booking directly with Trenitalia gave me the clearest picture of the day’s disruptions and helped me navigate the route with more confidence.

🛤️ Trainline

Trainline turned out to be the most convenient platform for much of this trip.

• Prices in GBP – No surprise foreign transaction fees from my bank! While Trainline does charge a booking fee, it often still worked out cheaper than the combined cost of current conversion and international transaction fees on other platforms.
• Easy to use – The booking process was smooth and straightforward, and having all my tickets stored in one place made the trip much easier to manage.
• Real-time integration – Trainline connects directly with Trenitalia’s booking system, so I could see real-time prices and availability, and make instant seat reservations.

Picking the Best Seats

If view is important to you (and let’s be honest, it usually is on scenic rail journeys), I always recommend doing a quick Google search of your route. There are so many generous travellers who’ve shared their best seat picks.

Before I share my own tips, here’s the single most important one: reserve your seats in advance. Ideally, months in advance, You’ll not only score cheaper fares but also have your pick of the best seats, especially those exclusive solo ones. And if someone happens to be sitting in your reserved spot, don’t be afraid to politely but firmly ask them to move. It didn’t happen to me on this trip, but it has before. You paid for that seat, and the conductor will back you up if need.

Here are my top seats picks for each journey (all assuming you’re facing direction of travel):

• Bernina Express: Northbound sit on the left-hand side for the most spectacular glacier and viaduct views. Vice versa for Southbound, sit on the right-hand side.
• Cinque Terre Express & Genoa coastal trains: Northbound sit on the left-hand side for the best coastal views. Southbound sit on the right-hand side.
• Tirano to Milan: Southbound sit on right-hand side for stunning views along Lake Como. Northbound, it’s the left-hand side.
• Rome to Sicily (InterCity Notte): Honestly? It doesn’t matter, it’s dark! 😂. But the sleeper cabins have windows, and you can always step into the corridor to catch the sea views once the sun is up.

When to Book (and Why Timing Matters)

Trains in Italy are cheaper the earlier you book, especially high-speed and scenic ones like the Bernina Express. I booked mine just over two months in advance and scored a first-class ticket for £50/€58! That said, local trains like the Cinque Terre Express are fixed fare and don’t require pre-booking.

Booking Accommodation

What I Looked For

As with my travel costs, my accommodation choices were guided first by price, then location, and finally by reviews. I ideally wanted to stay close to the train station, especially when catching early departures but that wasn’t always possible. In some cities, the areas around the station aren’t the nicest, so I had to strike a balance.

As a solo female traveller safety is key. Before clicking the “book now” button, I always take a quick Google Street View walkaround. Would I feel comfortable arriving late at night? Would I be happy walking around the neighbourhood during the day? These little checks helped me feel more confident about where I was staying.

Where I Stayed: Hotels vs Airbnb

My accommodation choices naturally split into two halves: hotels at the beginning of my trip, and Airbnbs for the remainder of the trip. This wasn’t a deliberate plan, it just made sense. The early part of the trip involved a lot of one-night stays while I was on the move, and hotels were simply more convenient for that kind of fast-paced travel.

Hotels

The hotels I stayed in were mostly just a place to sleep before catching a train the next morning. My only preference was ‘cheap and cheerful’, ideally close to the train station. But, as it often goes, the budget-friendly options near the stations were limited or expensive.

• Ibis Budget Zurich City West, Zurich – At £128, this was relatively cheap by Zurich standards. The hotel wasn’t close to the station so I stored my luggage at the station, packed an overnight bag, and hopped on a tram, which was only 13 minutes to the hotel.
• Curt di Clement Eco Mobility Hotel, Tirano – The hotels next to the station were all booked, and Curt di Clement Eco Mobility Hotel was my only option, and I’m so glad it was! This hotel was absolutely dreamy. I genuinely wished I had more time in Tirano just to enjoy the hotel.

Airbnb

A now-controversial choice, the rest of my accommodation was through Airbnb. At the time, it was still the most affordable option for travelling through Italy. I’m quite cautious with new listings, but I’ve occasionally scored some lovely properties for great prices, hosted by new hosts eager to earn their first positive reviews. For safety, I always book entire apartments, never just a room. That said, my booking habits have shifted since. These days, I primarily stay in hotels.

• La Spezia – I stayed at Sabrina’s studio flat just behind the train station. A lovely little modern studio with a balcony, close to both the town and the station, everything I needed for my stay.
• Florence – This was a new listing, located opposite the Duomo di Firenze. The apartment was old-fashioned, but with that view? No complaints. I paid £85 per night, now it’s listed £180 per night!

• Syracuse – Sarah’s place was my favourite stay of my entire trip. Her and her husband were incredibly welcoming and kind. Sadly, I spent my whole time there isolating with COVID, but it was a warm and comforting space to recover in. I tried to rebook it when I returned to Syracuse but it was already taken.
• Palermo – My Airbnb in Palermo was another great find; well located for both the main station and the city’s attractions. Best of all, it had a rooftop terrace, which, you can bet, I made the most of.

Key Tips for Booking a Multi-Stop Train Trip Through Italy

• Let the journey shape the route – build your itinerary around scenic or iconic rail journeys, not just destinations.
• Use Google Maps & Street View when choosing accommodation – check how far it is from the station and if you’d feel comfortable walking there, especially at night.
• Use a spreadsheet to plan – track dates, locations, train times, and costs to balance your budget and time effectively. Disclaimer: I’m a data nerd who loves her spreadsheets and fancy formulas.
• Book direct when it makes sense – sometimes it’s cheaper or gives you clearer info about delays, bus replacements, or specific services.
• User platforms that show prices in your local currency – saves you from hidden foreign transaction feeds (Trainline was a winner for me).
• Choose e-tickets when possible – they’re easier to keep track of and harder to lose when you’re on the move.
• Reserve your train seats early – you’ll get cheaper fares and a better chance at solo or window seats with the best views.
• Check seat recommendations online – a quick Google search often reveals which side of the train has the most scenic views.
• Be flexible with accommodation types – hotels may work better for one-night stopovers; Airbnbs can offer better value for longer stays.
• Don’t rule out new Airbnb listings – cautious booking can lead to hidden gems at bargain prices, especially from new hosts eager for reviews.

Where you stay and how you get there can shape how your whole adventure feels, and for me, booking this trip was when the excitement really started to build. In my next posts, I’ll be diving into what it was actually like riding those trains, from alpine peaks to seaside towns. Hope you’ll hope aboard for the ride!

Happy & safe travels

L x👣