The Bergen Line: Is It Really the World’s Most Beautiful Railway?

Some journeys are about the destination and, quite frankly, I knew very little about Bergen, nor about its rainy reputation. The Bergen Line was the reason for this trip. Often described as the world’s most beautiful train journey, this 496km route takes around seven hours and runs several times a day, with both daytime and overnight services available. Along with the Flåmsbana Railway and the Nærøyfjord cruise, it forms part of the Norway in a Nutshell itinerary. Travelling along it, it’s easy to see why!

Operating since 1909, the Bergen Railway has linked Eastern and Western Norway for over a century. Starting at Oslo (or Bergen, depending on your direction of travel), the line follows the Drammenselva river before skirting the shores of Tyrifjorden, one of Norway’s largest lakes. From there, the scenery gradually transforms as the train passes through the Hallingdal Valley, where lush forests give way to snow-capped mountains. Climbs ever higher, the railway eventually reaches Finse beside Lake Finsevatnet, with the Hardangerjøkulen glacier rising majestically in the background.

Starting in Oslo

Oslo was the perfect start of my journey. I was soon under the calm, unhurried influence of the city. Despite this being my third day of travel, I felt energised and excited about what lay ahead.

Arriving in Oslo at 10am after a ferry journey from Copenhagen gave me plenty of time to walk to Oslo Central Station, enjoy breakfast in Østbanehallen (the beautifully restored railway hall attached to the station) and to pop into the 7-Eleven for train snacks before heading to the platform around 20 minutes before departure.

Oslo Central Station was easy to navigate. It had everything you would expect of a major railway station: cafés, restaurants, shops, luggage storage, toilets, baby changing facilities, ATMs and currency exchange. I found the departure board and platforms in no time. The platform was announced 20 minutes before departure, which meant I could maintain my relaxed pace. There was no rush to get anywhere.

I had purchased a flex ticket from VY in two months advance, which meant I was able to secure one of the coveted window seats on the left-hand side of the train. The flexibility of my ticket was reassuring. If anything had gone wrong during the first two days of my trip, I could have changed the date or time of travel, or even cancelled altogether for a full refund. Thankfully everything had gone smoothly, apart from me being an idiot in Brussels and missing my connection.

As I settled into my seat a bag of Smash (yum), a Kvikklunsj (double yum), and a bottle of Solo (delicious!), I watched the train gradually fill up with passengers. Many were clearly tourists like me, equally as excited to be embarking on one of Europe’s great rail journeys. There was a real sense of anticipation in the air, which somehow made the experience feel even more special.

Right on time, at 12:03, the train left Oslo with a gentle judder and we were on our way to Bergen through a landscape that would soon have me completely awestruck.

Crossing Eastern Norway

Before we continue, a small confession. If you’re expecting lots of spectacular photographs from this journey, I’m truly sorry. I lost almost all of my Norway photos thanks to my MacBook deciding to do something deeply unhelpful with my photo library. The only survivors were the photo below and a handful I posted to Instagram at the time. I did hope that the photos would do the talking in this post.

Gutted doesn’t even begin to cover it. Losing the photos was heartbreaking, but thankfully I haven’t lost the memories. So you’ll just have to trust me when I say that some of the scenery you’re about to read about was absolutely breathtaking.

Leaving Oslo, the train made its way south to Drammen, a port city on the banks of the Drammenselva River, passing through small satellite towns and villages along the way. After leaving Drammen, the urban landscape quickly disappeared behind us as the railway followed along the river north through pine forests, rolling green hills, neat little villages, and scattered farmsteads before reaching Tyrifjorden, Norway’s fifth largest lake.

I spent much of the journey peering into forests, convinced I might spot a moose hidden among the trees (I did eventually see one in Norway but not on this journey).

This stretch of the Bergen Line felt wonderfully peaceful. Had I not been so determined to take in every view, I could quite happily have drifted off to sleep.

Beyond Tryrilfjorden, the landscape slowly began to change. The forests started to thin, the hills became steeper, and before long the countryside gave way to the dramatic mountain scenery that the Bergen Line is so famous for.

Into the Mountains

Beyond Tyrifjorden, the landscape began to transform. The lush forests and green hills gradually gave way to a landscape that felt almost Artic. It wasn’t quite winter, yet it wasn’t quite summer either. It was as though I’d blinked and had been transported into a another world.

The skies turned grey, perhaps giving us an early hint of the weather waiting in Bergen, while patches of glistening snow clung to the mountainsides amongst the exposed rock. Icy lakes reflected the muted light, and the vast, open landscape of the Hardangervidda plateau stretched out in every direction. It felt wonderfully remote, as though we had left civilisation behind.

Finse: Norway’s Highest Station

If there was one part of the journey that left me completely awestruck, it was the approach into Finse. Dominating the landscape was the Hardangerjøkulen glacier, which seemed to escort the train all the way into Norway’s highest railway station.

Accessible only by rail, bike, or foot (there are no roads leading to the village) Finse is best known as a destination for winter sports and hiking. It also played an important role in preparing some of history’s greatest polar explorers, including Amundsen, Scott, and Shackleton. Looking back, that was probably why I found myself so fascinated by the place, given my love for all things Antarctic. As if that wasn’t enough, Finse also has a rather impressive side hustle as the filming location for the planet Hot in The Empire Strikes Back.

I sat there gazing out at the red station buildings, Lake Finsevatnet stretching beyond them, and the glacier and mountains rising in every direction. For a brief moment, I found myself wondering whether I should have made Finse one of my stops. Before I could leap off the train in a sudden act of sheer madness, the doors closed, the train pulled away, and we disappeared into the darkness of the Finsetunnelen.

Descending Towards the Fjords

From Finse, the train continued towards Myrdal, a place I would become acquainted with a couple of days later on my return journey to Oslo via Flåm.

The stark, Artic landscape of Hardangervidda was soon left behind. Snow gradually disappeared from the mountainside, waterfalls tumbled down steep valleys, and rives and lakes took on an almost vivd shade of blue. The long climb across Norway’s mountain plateau was over and we began our descent towards to country’s spectacular western coastline,

With every passing mile, Bergen drew closer, and so did my excitement. After seven hours crossing forests, lakes, mountains, and glaciers, I couldn’t wait to see what awaited me at the end of one of Europe’s most beautiful railway journeys.

Arriving in Bergen

I arrived into Bergen tired but excited. The torrential rain waiting outside the station did little to dampen my enthusiasm as I dragged my suitcase through puddles and along the cobbled streets towards my hotel. Despite the weather, Bergen immediately made an impression. Passing Lille Lundgegardsvannet and the city’s art museums, I caught glimpses of colourful buildings, historic architecture and mountains through the pelting rain.

Reflections

So, is the Bergen Line the world’s most beautiful railway line? It’s certainly up there. Of all the rail journeys I’ve taken, the Bernina Express is the strongest competition for. Is it the most beautiful railway line in Scandinavia? Without a doubt!

I’m so pleased I began my Norway by Rail adventure with the Bergen Line. It set the bar incredibly high, and somehow the rest of the trip still managed to live up to it. It was the beginning of my love affair with Norway.

I often joke that I need to go back simply to replace the photos I lost. But if I’m honest, it’s not really a joke. I’d happily travel the Bergen Line all over again. The way the landscape transformed from forests and lakes to snow-covered mountains before descending through waterfalls and fjords is something that I will never forget. My photographs may be gone, but those memories are as vivid as ever.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴