Norway In A Nutshell: Cruising the Fjords and Riding the Flåmsbana

This is one of those post which I wish still had all my amazing photos, which were lost during the Great Delete of 2026. I hope my words paint a beautiful picture for you instead.

Norway in a Nutshell is a popular route which combines scenic railways, a majestic fjord cruise, and a breathtaking bus journey, which can be completed in 14 hours or spread across multiple days. The tour was created as a marketing concept in the 1980s by Fjord Tours to boost tourism in the area and is still available to book through them.

Today, the DIY version is incredibly popular with independent travellers, either doing it as a frantic 14-hour marathon or taking it slowly to experience more of what Vestlandet has to offer.

I only did part of the tour, skipping the Bergen to Gudvangen leg in favour of travelling the Bergen Line from Oslo to Bergen at the start, followed by the Sognefjord cruise from Bergen to Flåm. If you fancy the challenge of the entire tour, here it is travelling from Bergen:

• Bergen to Voss – a hour-long regional train journey
• Voss to Gudvangen – a coach ride which winds through the dramatic Nærøydalen valley
• Gudvangen to Flåm – two hours cruising through the UNESCO-protected Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord
• Flåm to Myrdal: all abroad the iconic Flåmsbana for a spectacular journey on one of world’s steepest standard-gauge railways
• Myrdal to Oslo – jumping on the Bergen Line to speed across Europe’s highest mountain plateau

Most of the route runs all year, however, the Nærøyfjord cruise may change during the winter months, instead operating as a round trip from Flåm rather than stopping at Gudvangen. You would then need to travel between Gudvangen and Flåm by bus. The Sognefjord cruise I took definitely does not run during the winter months.

The Route

The Sognefjord cruise, which takes you from Bergen to Flåm, and the Flåmsbana both form an essential part of the Norway in a Nutshell tour, with the Bergen Line completing the journey.

Departing daily at 8:00am between April and October, the cruise takes you on an awe-inspiring journey along the Bergen coastline entering the Sognefjord, the King of the Fjords. As a passenger ferry, it also stops at villages along the fjord, including Balestrand and Vik.

Running year-round with multiple departures each day, the Flåmsbana is a popular railway taking you from Flåm to Myrdal and back again, should you choose to. The journey climbs through the steep and narrow Flåm Valley, passing through what has to be some of the most spectacular scenery in Norway. Once you arrive in Myrdal, you can return straight to Flåm, explore the surrounding area, or continue your journey onwards to Bergen or Oslo.

Booking

Fjord Cruise

Cruises and passenger services on the Nordhordland fjords are operated by Norled. Tickets for the Sognefjord cruise can be purchased directly from their website. If you are exploring the area you must book a ticket for each destination, e.g. Bergen – Balestrand and then Balestrand – Flåm.

If you are travelling the prescribed Norway in a Nutshell route, you can book the Nærøyfjord cruise via Norway’s Best.

Book early, as tickets can sell out quickly, especially during peak summer months.

Flåmsbana

If you’re booking the journey yourself, as I did, tickets for the Flåmsbana and connecting services on the Bergen Line can be purchased through Vy.

The official Flåmsbana website also lists recommended tour operators if you’re planning to travel as part of the Norway in a Nutshell route or would prefer to join an organised tour.

Like the fjord cruise, it’s worth booking early. Tickets can sell out quickly, particularly when a cruise ship is in port.

Cruising into Flåm

The Sognefjord cruise, which takes you from Bergen to Flåm, is a magnificent 5.5-hour journey that transitions from the open coastal islands along the Bergen coastline into the deepest, narrowest recesses of the world’s second longest fjord, stretching 200 kms.

I started my day with a mad dash to the harbour. As I settled with a coffee at the hotel, I checked the departure time of the cruise and realised that I had read it wrong. I read the date, 08-25, as the departure time (why they wrote the date backwards!?!), when it was 08:00. It was the second time I had done this on this trip and, fortunately, the last time. You need to be there at least 20 minutes before departure. I got there with 10 minutes to spare.

After catching my breath following my mad dash and storing my case in the luggage racks, I grabbed a coffee from the onboard café, and found an aisle seat in the middle section. I had missed out on a window seat, but the rain was pelting down outside, making it impossible to see anything anyway.

A Colourful Goodbye to Bergen

We slipped away from Bergen, sailing past the colourful Bryggen wharf and Mount Fløyen, navigating our way through a maze of low-lying rocky coastal island (skerries). We passed beneath the Nordhordland Bridge and cruised through tight sea channels lined with the little yellow and red holiday cabins, my anticipation rapidly building as the catamaran’s engines accelerated us out into the open water.

Into the King of Fjords!

After approximately two hours, we took a sharp turned into the King of Fjords, Sognefjord. The landscape became grander as the gentle coastal hills suddenly turned into massive, smooth-face granite mountains plunging into the deep, dark ink-blue water.

We bobbed along the water like a giant’s tiny toy boat, rocking side to side as the gale force winds joined us. It was at this point that we all stopped caring about the rain and wind and went outside on the deck to take in the beauty of our surroundings.

The cold wind and rain whipped our faces, and we’d momentarily pop back down below deck for warmth, but there would always be the same faces back out on deck wide-eyed at what they were seeing, sometimes with a hot chocolate in hand.

The Mid-Fjord: Farmsteads and Painted Villages

As we glided deeper inland, the mountains grew taller, sharper, and more dramatic, with many of the peaks holding onto patches of snow even in late summer.

We glided up to tiny waterfront villages like Balestrand and Vikøyri, where the dark rock momentarily gave way to vibrant green shorelines. We gazed in awe at the historic white churches dominating the villages, and in Balestrand’s case, a grand wooden 19th century Swiss-style hotel. There were also tiny, isolated farmsteads perched high up on the steep, grassy mountain ledges.

The Aurlandsford: The Great Shadowed Canyon

As we neared the end, the catamaran dramatically turned south into the Aurlandsfjord, a breathtakingly narrow, steep-sided brand of the main fjord, with the sky narrowing above us.

The mountain walls rose 1,200 metres straight out of the water, like guardians of the fjord. We stopped for a moment to take in the powerful Kvinnafossen waterfall. Kvinne means woman is Norwegian, and legend has it that a rock shaped like a woman appears in the falling water when the flow is right.

Gliding into Flåm

The journey ended when we calmly arrived in a quiet, sheltered basin. The towering cliffs were no more; now we were surrounded by still waters and the green valley of Flåm, where the green carriage of the Flåmsbana awaited to complete some of those travelling on the Norway in a Nutshell route.

An Evening in Flåm

I arrived in Flåm early afternoon. As I made my way to my accommodation, Flåm Camping Ground and Hostel, I quickly realised my plans for the day had quite literally been washed away. Every hiking trails was closed because of the weather.

Flåm Camping Ground and Hostel

Nestled at the foot of the mountains, Flåm Camping Ground and Hotel was an unexpected gem.

The facilities were simple but comfortable. I managed to secure a single room with access to a shared bathroom and kitchen. The room itself was tiny, containing little more than a single bed, an armchair, and a small high window, but that was all I needed.

The shared bathrooms were exactly what you’d expect from a hostel, with shower cubicles operated by tokens provided at reception (towels were also included). What I wasn’t expecting was one of the best showers of the trip. The water pressure was fantastic, the water was wonderfully hot, and being one of the first guests awake certainly had its advantages.

Flåm Village

With hiking off the agenda, I decided to spend the afternoon exploring the village instead.

Home to just 293 people, Flåm welcomes hundred of thousands of visitors each year thanks to its spectacular location at the end of the Aurlandsford and its famous railway. Despite its tiny population, it has everything visitors need including a supermarket, luggage storage opposite the railway station, souvenir shops, a mall, the Flåm Railway Museum, and plenty of cafés and restaurants.

When the weather plays along, there’s no shortage of things to do either. Hiking trails lead into the surrounding mountains, fjords cruises depart from the harbour, thrill-seekers can tackle the Flåm Zipline, and the spectacular Stegastein Viewpoint is only a short drive away.

Norway’s First Craft Brewery

My First stop was the Ægir BrewPub to sample some local beer.

One of Norway’s pioneering craft breweries, Ægir has been brewing beer for nearly two decades. Walking through the big wooden doors, you’re transported into a setting inspired by Norse mythology. The timber interior surrounds a 9-metre high fireplace, while seats are adorned with animal skins and fleeces, and Norwegian crafts decorate the walls.

Overwhelmed by the choice of beer on offer, I started with the citrusy Ægir India Pale Ale and found a high seat overlooking the fire pit. As I sipped my IPA, I noticed that other patrons had ordered tasting flights, so I got myself one – which turned out to be the right choice. As I got up for my next beer, I realised I was getting a bit tipsy, so decided to head outside for some fresh air walk to clear my head.

Flåm Railway Museum

From the pub, I made my way to the Flåm Railway Museum to learn more about the railway journey I would be taking the next day.

Located in the old train station, admission to this excellent little museum is free. Not only does it give you an insight into the history Flåm Railway, it also tells the stories of the people who worked on it. For those railway nuts like me, there’s even a El 9 locomotive on display.

Make sure you visit the souvenir store before you leave. I brought a lovely print from local artist Arvid Norendal, which now sits proudly on my travel art wall.

Pizza in the Rain

Behind the Mall of Norway you’ll find a street food market. As the evening closed in, many of stalls had started to close, but I managed to buy a delicious pizza from The Somewhat Larger Red Wagon (Flåms Coffee and Eats), who also run a small café at the camping ground.

The seating was covered, but I still felt a little pathetic sitting there in the rain with my pizza. Thankfully, it was absolutely delicious, which made it worthwhile.

The Flåm Railway

The Flåmsbana is an hour-long tourist service that climbs steeply into the mountains between Flåm and Myrdal, where it connects with the Bergen Line. You can travel as a round trip or book a one-way journey as part of a longer route. Travelling in vintage-style carriages, there are spectacular views no matter which side you sit on.

Running 20km along one of the world’s steepest standard-gauge adhesion railways lines, the Flåmsbana was approved for construction by the Norwegian Government to connect the fjord with Bergen and Oslo. It first opened in August 1940, with steam trains running along the line until 1944, when it become the one of the first railway lines in Norway to be electrified. Along the line are 20 tunnels, 18 of which were constructed by hand and were necessary to avoid areas prone to landslide.

Facilities on the train include toilets, large overhead luggage racks, and bike storage (which must be reserved in advance), and dogs are allowed onboard. There is no dining on the train, but there are cafés at both Flåm and Myrdal. Both Flåm and Myrdal accommodate accessible boarding.

I started my day by grabbing a coffee and cinnamon roll from Flåm Bakeri (A-Feltvegen 11). With bakery opening at 8am and the train departing at 8:25am, I was chancing my luck. But I was at the station for 8:10am, coffee in hand, sheltering from the rain under the Mall of Norway veranda with the other passengers.

Tour groups are boarded first, as they usually book entire carriages or board by prior arrangement with their tour rep. The individual travellers politely and slowly formed an orderly queue, with none of us wanting to give up our shelter in a hurry. Seats are unreserved and on a first come first serve basis, so everyone made a dash for the front of the train. As I walked past the last carriage, I noticed it was empty. That was the carriage for me, and being the first onboard, I had my choice of window seats. As I sat down, I noticed that one section of the carriage was roped off with a reserved sign.

The last carriage seemed to be an unpopular choice, and seats still remained empty right up until departure. As we departed, the train manager announced that the photography tour group who had reserved the section hadn’t turned up, so we were free to make the most of the entire carriage. Our small group were so delighted by our luck, we kind of bonded over it, making for a very pleasant and friendly journey.

The train departed on time, taking us on a magical journey through the steep Flåm Valley. Following the fast-flowing white water of the Flåm river, the railway gradually climbs from the fjord towards the stark alpine landscape surrounding Myrdal. Sitting on the right-hand side, I had the absolute best seat in the house – or make that train.

In late August, the valley was still at its most vibrant green and the alpine flowers were still in bloom. The rain and the summer melt had the waterfalls flowing beautifully.

Twisting and winding in and out of the 20 tunnels that punctuate the line, over the next hour the scenery changed dramatically as we climbed from the fjords towards the mountains.

Lush Valley Floor (Flåm to Håreina)

Pulling away from the glistening blue Aurlandsfjord, we moved into wide, flat meadows, with the crystal-clear Flåm River flowing alongside me. Before moving entirely away from Flåm, I was gifted with a brief glimpse of the white Flåm Church.

Climbing the Gorge (Håreina to Berekvam)

Reaching Håreina, the train began to climb and the landscape transitioned from lush green valley to a narrow, steep canyon. Passing through the Furuberget Tunnel, we reached our first spectacular view; the imposing but majestic 310-metre Rjoandefossen waterfall.

The Deepest Chasm (Berekvam to Blomheller)

The serene Flåm river was now white water, flowing fast beneath me. The train passed through the Nåli Tunnel, the longest tunnel on the line. If you look closely, you will see that the tracks are layered on three different levels, cut into the opposing mountain face. One of the many true engineering marvels on this journey.

The Thunderous Stop (Kardal to Kjosfossen)

We left the lush green valley behind and were now surrounding by wet, dark granite walls and a raw Artic alpine landscape.

The train stops at the thunderous Kjosfossen Waterfall and gives you enough time to take photos at this iconic site. Don’t worry, the conductor will tell you that it’s okay to leave the train and will usher you back onboard the when it is time to depart.

The water falls with such ferocity it was difficult to know what was rain and what was mist from the falls. Apparently, there is usually a Huldra dance, but the dancer didn’t appear for us. I don’t know if that’s a bad thing or not; to be honest, sounds a bit touristy and tacky to me.

The Final Alpine Horseshoe (Kjosfossen to Myrdal)

One of the great engineering feats along the line is the Vendetunnelen, which runs like a figure of eight inside the mountain. This hand-drilled tunnel was designed this way to give the train extra distance to climb the steep slope at the top of Flåmsdalen.

After we twisted and turned through the tunnel, we were spat out onto the Reinunga mountain plateau, and the glacier Lake Reinungavatnet, the source of the Kjosfossen, leaving the lush green valleys behind.

As we climbed the final steep ridge, there was one last glance down into the deep, green Flåmsdalen valley beneath me. From there, we had one final stop at Vatnahalsen before arriving at our final destination; the rocky, windswept high-mountain station of Myrdal.

Arriving in Myrdal, you have a number of options; return to Flåm (remember to book a round trip), or continue on the Bergen Line to another destination. For the more adventurous, you can hike or bike back to Flåm along the 17km Myrdal to Flåm road.

From Myrdal to Oslo

I don’t know what it is about Myrdal station, but I liked being there. I was almost disappointed when my connecting train arrived to take me to Oslo. It was very Nordic. I made a beeline to Café Rallaren for a coffee and some snacks for the train. I was expecting it to be overcrowded with tourists from the Flåmsbana, but most seemed to be doing the round trip, leaving only a handful of passengers travelling onwards to Oslo or Bergen.

My connection from Myrdal was at 10:02, which gave me 50 minutes to relax.

Because I was travelling back on myself, I was able to relax and take in the scenery. There was no need to take photos like I had done on my way to Bergen. Actually, there was no need to take any photos, given the Great Delete of 2026.

I arrived in Oslo at 15:00, which fitted nicely with check-in at my hotel, while still giving me the early evening to wander about and discover brown cheese and waffles for the first time.

Practical Tips

• Book early: Both the Sognefjord cruise and Flåmsbana can sell out, particularly during the summer and when cruise ships are in Flåm. If you’re travelling independently, book each leg of your journey separately.
• Double-check your departure time: And don’t mistake the date for the time like I did! Norled asks passengers to arrive at least 20 minutes before departure from Bergen.
• Pack from all weather: Even in late August, I experienced heavy rain, strong winds, and cold temperatures. Bring waterproofs and something warm, particularly if you want to spend time outside on desk during the fjord cruise.
• Don’t stay inside because it’s raining: The bet view on the Sognefjord cruise are from the outdoor deck. It was wet, cold, and incredibly windy, but absolutely worth it.
• Consider staying overnight in Flåm: A lot of visitors pass straight through as part of Norway in a Nutshell, but I enjoyed having an evening there. It also meant I could take an early Flåmsbana service the following morning before continuing to Oslo.
• Have a wet-weather plan for Flåm: Mountain weather can close hiking trails. The Flåm Railway Museum is free, there are plenty of cafés and restaurants, and Ægir BrewPub isn’t a bad place to wait out in the rain.
• There is luggage storage: You’ll find luggage storage opposite Flåm railway station, useful if you’re passing through rather than staying overnight. There are also luggage racks onboard the Sognefjord ferry and Flåmsbana.
• Flåmsbana seats are unreserved: If you want your choice of window seat, arrive early. Don’t automatically follow everyone else either; I headed for the almost-empty last carriage while everyone else rushed towards the front.
• Don’t worry too much about which side of the Flåmsbana you sit on: There are spectacular views from both side. I sat on the right travelling from Flåm to Myrdal and certainly wasn’t disappointed.
• Bring food for your onward journey: There is no food service onboard the Flåmsbana, although there were cafés in both Flåm and Myrdal. Café Rallaren at Myrdal was perfect for grabbing coffee and snacks before my Bergen Line connection.
• Leave some connection time at Myrdal: I had 50 minute between trains and actually enjoyed it. Myrdal isn’t somewhere I’d necessarily rush through.

Reflections

In a nutshell, this experience was worth the rain. Did I suffer from FOMO by not doing the Bergen to Gudvangen leg, thus completing the Norway in a Nutshell tour? No, not at all! I’m quite happy with the route I decided upon.

The Bergen Line took me through Norway’s vast landscapes, the fjord cruise through its heart, and the Flåmsbana climbed into the mountains. Individually they’re spectacular; together they become one of Europe’s greatest travel experiences.

The Sognefjord cruise was absolutely beautiful. If I were to do it again, I would make it a multi-day tip, stopping at some of the villages along the way and explore the area surrounding the fjord. Who wouldn’t want to stay in the beautiful Swiss-style Kviknes Hotel in Balestrand?

The Flåmsbana, I could travel on that train again and again. I would never get bored of that experience. My only disappointment was the rain washed away my plans to hike through the beautiful green valley of Flåm.

I do want to return to Vestlandet to spend more time exploring Bergen and travelling along the fjords, ultimately doing the Flåmsbana (again) but this time hiking back to Flåm.

Does that sound like a plan? I think it does.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴