London to Oslo: A Slow Journey North by Rail and Sea

Norway was the furthest I have travelled by train from London. Three days dedicated to travelling could easily sound like madness, but for me, it was always an adventure. And even in the moments when it felt overwhelming, I never stopped seeing it that way.

When I looked at my journey mapped out on a map, it felt perfect. A quick Eurostar hop to Brussels, then a gradual slowing through Germany and Denmark, before waking up in Norway after a night at sea. Those two days didn’t just feel like part of the holiday, they were the holiday. The main event was the journey itself; by rail, ferry, and a couple of buses.

It all felt perfect from start to finish…or was it?

The Route

The route I took was relatively simple. A familiar Eurostar journey from London to Brussels, a journey I’ve done many times before.

From there things started to slow down slightly on Deutsche Bahn high speed ICE service, with the Belgian and German countrysides zipping past my windows. It’s now that the journey becomes new and starts to feel like an adventure. We pause in Cologne for a brief moment to switch trains to Hamburg for a good nights sleep.

Early the next morning, I made my way to Copenhagen on DB’s EuroCity service. Here I swapped the train tracks for the sea, boarding an overnight ferry crossing to Oslo across the Skagerrak, truly slowing down. After a reasonable nights sleep I arrive in Oslo, and make my way to the central station for a leisurely breakfast of kanelsnurrer and and delicious Scandic black coffee because my journey hasn’t finished there; I’ve another day of travelling to Bergen but I will save that story for another post.

For more details on how I planned and booked my journey, or the entire Norway by Rail itinerary:

Booking

Trains

For my journey from London to Copenhagen, Rail Europe was the most convenient option. There is a small booking fee, but I could simply enter my start and end destinations and travel dates, and it handled the rest.

If you’re planning a stopover (for example, in Hamburg), select “More options” in the search box. This allows you to add a ‘via’ destination and specify the duration of your stop.

Ferry

For the ferry journey between Copenhagen I booked directly with the ferry operator – Go Nordic Cruiseline

Operated by Go Nordic Cruiseline, this route includes a standard cabin as part of the ticket. You can select a different cabin for an additional cost, with options ranging from a standard inside cabin to a Commodore Deluxe cabin with sea views and jacuzzis. I chose a standard seaview cabin, which turned out to be the perfect choice. I woke in the middle of the night to the moon shimmering along the ocean.

Leg by Leg

It all sounds wonderfully smooth in the section above, but my first day of travelling didn’t quite go to plan. One missed connection, followed a long delay in Cologne, and suddenly the whole journey started to unravel.

Eurostar: London → Brussels

The first day of travel began with a 9:04am Eurostar. Arriving at St Pancras in good time, I did what I always do, brought a croissant and a black Americano from Pret, then found a seat to wait for boarding. The journey itself was uneventful. We left on time, and before long we were dashing through the French countryside on our way to Belgium.

With just under two hours to spare in Brussels, I decided to store my bags and head out to Grote Markt for lunch. My train was due to depart at 2:25pm but somehow, in my ADHD head, I registered that as the time I needed to be back at the station.

I wandered around the city, trying to find the waffle place I’d loved on my last visit, and a chocolate shop that I wanted to visit but has been closed. I failed to find the waffle shop and the chocolate shop was… closed. After a quick Google search for recommendations, I ended up at a place called “Australian Homemade Ice-cream”. The waffle was incredibly sweet, not in a good way, I binned it after a couple of bites before heading back to the station.

I arrived back just before 2:25pm, feeling quite pleased with myself. Before collecting my bags, I checked the departure board for my platform. My train wasn’t listed. That’s when it hit me, I didn’t actually know the departure time! Was it 2:45pm, 3:00pm… 5pm. I checked my ticket and there it was, in plain sight; 2:25pm!

Realising what a fool I had been, I made my way straight to the international ticket desk and explained the situation. The staff member handled it brilliantly, perhaps helped by the fact I fully owned my mistake. €100 later, and with a ticket for the 4:22pm train in hand, I did what any sensible person would do: had a beer at Café Bogard and a decent waffle from a concession – this time staying firmly inside the station and keeping a very close eye on the time.

Deutsche Bahn ICE: Brussels → Hamburg

Happily back on track (pun not intended), I was on my way to Hamburg for a night’s rest, albeit a couple of hours later.

What should have been a quick change at Cologne turned into a long wait. Most train were facing delays of over an hour. I stepped outside to see the cathedral, which impossible to miss as it is right next to the station. I briefly considering finding a bar for a beer. But, remembering what happened in Brussels, I quickly decided against it and opted to wait on the platform for very very long time.

I eventually arrived in Hamburg at around 1:00am. Thankfully, Hotel Fürst Bismarck was directly opposite the station. Ever the wary traveller, I was incredibly grateful for the warm welcome and speedy check-in from the night clerk.

My room was basic, a single bed and a shower room, but it was exactly what I needed for a short stop. I settled in for the night and didn’t sleep. My head full of worry. In just a few hours, I needed to be back up and ready for my 6:31am train to Copenhagen. I didn’t want to miss another connection!

Deutsche Bahn EuroCity: Hamburg → Copenhagen

Waking up at 5:30am…. let’s be honest, I did sleep at all. So when the alarm went off, it was less “wake up” and more “give up trying” and get ready for the next leg of the journey: Hamburg to Copenhagen.

After a quick shower, I headed over to the station in search of a much-needed coffee, grabbing one from the first concession I can across. The quality didn’t matter, I just needed caffeine!

This leg was, thankfully, uneventful. We left on time and arrived on time. I, on the other hand, was running on very little patience. Sleep-deprived and irritable, I did try to nap, but there were kids in the carriage being kids.

There were border control checks at Padborg, Denmark, where some passengers were questioned more than others. I’ve never quite worked out what their criteria is, I always breeze through with minimal questions. Then again, I’m a white woman travelling on a passport from a peace-loving country.

Copenhagen

Arriving at Copenhagen Central station, I immediately made a beeline for Lagkagehuset to refuel on caffeine along with a kanelsnegle.

For lunch, I checked if John’s Hotdog Deli (right outside the station), did vegetarian hotdogs. Alas, they don’t. I considered sitting down for a proper meal, but I had my big suitcase with me and I exhausted. So, I headed back to Lagkagehuset for one of their delicious sandwiches, then stopped by 7-Eleven to stock-up on snacks for the ferry.

I brought my ticket for the train to Nordhavn, the closest station to the ferry terminal, and then my sleep-deprived brain promptly shut-down. Despite having travelled through this station many times before, I couldn’t make sense of the layout.

Go Nordic Cruiseline: Copenhagen → Oslo

Getting to the ferry terminal

You have two options from Copenhagen Central Station:

• Go Nordic Cruiseline shuttle bus service (departs 15:40 for the 16:30 ferry)
• M4 metro train or S-train (around 12 minutes)

As I arrived early, I took the S-train, which was a breeze, once I found the platform. (I was stood next to it the entire time. If only I’d turned around.)

The ferry terminal (Dampfærgevej 30) is about a 10-minute walk from Nordhavn and well signposted.

Check-in & boarding

Check-in can be done via your mobile, but there are desks at the terminal if needed. For some reason, mine wouldn’t work, so I had to go to the desk, but it was effortless. The staff member couldn’t see why it had failed, but quickly sorted it.

I didn’t have long to wait before boarding, in fact, I was one of the first standard passengers on.

When I made this journey, the route was still operated by DFDS, and passengers were allowed to board before the cabins were ready. Go Nordic Cruiseline now operates things slightly differently, with boarding only available once cabins are ready.

Personally, I think the Go Nordic approach sounds better, When I boarded with DFDS, there was a lot of waiting around before I could access my cabin. I found a seat, but the woman next to me was sick and then disappeared with her husband, leaving another passenger to alert staff. That was my cue to move to the bar. I only planned to read my book, but felt guilty sitting there without ordering anything, so naturally ended up with a beer.

Onboard experience

Once cabins were ready, I was very happy with my choice. A four-berth cabin set-up for one, which made it quite roomy, and I didn’t regret paying extra for the window.

The cabin was arranged for daytime with a sofa that converted into a bed by pulling down the back. There was also is a tiny en-suite shower room, which meant I could have a decent shower in the morning.

I headed up deck to watch our departure and stayed there until the weather suddenly turned. Actually, it took a while for me and a Japanese man to head back inside, we were enjoying our experience so much that we didn’t mind the weather nor did we realise we were the only ones left on deck.

The crossing

Boringly, I stayed in my cabin. I was too tired to join any of the onboard activities, so I ate my sandwich for dinner and fell asleep almost instantly.

I woke as the ferry docked in Frederikshavn (a port they no longer call at), and didn’t fall back asleep straight away. As we sailed out of the harbour, I caught a glimpse of the moon shimmering across the water, and lay there watching it until I drifted off again.

Arriving at Oslo

Then next morning, I was woken up by the announcement that we’d be arriving in Oslo in 30 minutes. I had a quick shower and got ready to disembark.

There were queues, but everything moved smoothly. I wasn’t in a rush, my train to Bergen wasn’t until midday, so I took my time.

From the terminal, bus 60 will take you to the city centre in around 5 minutes. Taxis are also available, though I’d recommend pre-booking to avoid a wait.

I decided to walk. It’s about 15 minutes to Oslo Central station, and I arrived with plenty of time to spare, enough time to settle with a coffee and kanelsnurrer (yes, I do have a cinnamon roll addiction), and pop into 7-Eleven for train snacks before heading to the platform 20 minutes before departure.

Breakfast at Østbanehallen

For breakfast, you must head to the Østbanehallen, located inside the old railway hall attached to Oslo Central Station.

I discovered this place entirely by accident. Faced with a set of very suitcase-unfriendly steps leading towards the main terminal, I spotted another staircase off to the right leading into the old station hall instead. Through the doors was this incredible food hall.

My breakfast was from Kanelsnurren, where fresh buns are baked on-site. Their coffee is made using beans roasted in their own roastery, which, I must say, resulted in the perfect cup of coffee.

And thankfully, there are escalators at the end of the hall leading directly up into the main station.

Practical Tips for Travelling from London to Oslo by Rail and Ferry

• Book your trains early
  Especially if you want cheaper fares and reserved seats. I booked through Rail Europe, which made multi-country booking much easier
• Double-check your departure time, and then check again
  Learn from my moment in Brussel – “departure time” means departure time, not “time to wander back to the station”
• Don’t cut connections too fine
  Give yourself enough time to compose yourself and find the platform for your connecting train. If you miss your connection due to delays or a fault of your own, head straight to the ticket desk. They are very understanding and helpful.
• Stay close to the station for overnight stops
  After arriving in Hamburg at 1:00am, having a hotel directly opposite the station was a lifesaver.
• Pack snacks for the ferry and train
  Most European train stations have a mini-supermarket which are ideal for stocking up before boarding your next train. 7-Eleven became my best friend on this trip – I love their sandwiches!
• The S-train to Nordhavn is easy and quick
  It takes around 12 minutes from Copenhagen Central to the ferry terminal station, followed by a short walk.
• The ferry terminal is well signposted
  The walk from Nordhavn Station to Dampfægevej 30 only takes around 10 minutes.
• Pay extra for the sea-view cabin
  Waking up to the moon shimmering across the water made the upgrade completely worth it.
• Check-in issues are easily resolved
  Mobile check-in didn’t work for me, but the terminal staff sorted it quickly and effortlessly.
• Walking from the Oslo ferry terminal is easy
  Oslo Central Station is only about a 15-minute walk away, though bus 60 is available if need.
• Embrace the journey itself
  Travelling from London to Oslo overland takes time, but that’s part of the magic. The trains, ferries, delays, coffee stopes, and small mishaps become part of the adventure.

Reflection

I thought that by the time I reached Oslo I would be exhausted. But I wasn’t. I was energised and ready to continue onwards to Bergen.

Over the course of two days, I travelled through an array of landscapes and cultures. I had left the comfortable, familiar confines of London, travelled through the historic heart of Europe in Brussels and the industrial port city of Hamburg, before reaching the hygge comforts of Copenhagen and finally arriving in the quieter more modern Oslo.

In the end the expensive missed connection, the delays, and the lack of sleep in Germany were quickly forgotten. What lingers instead are memories of the moon shimmering along the water, perfect Scandi cinnamon buns and coffee, and the anticipation of what lay ahead of me in Norway.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴