Christmas Day in Salzburg

During a work Christmas party I was chatting a work colleague, like me an Australasian immigrant with no family in the UK and too expensive to head back home. I told her how I wish I had the courage to travel abroad for Christmas, her response was do it! She’s been doing exactly this, booking a cottage in remote Ireland and shutting out the world.

Salzburg was a Christmas Market holiday idea, which I never got around to book. It had come highly recommended by a friend who is a big European Christmas market fan. It looked dreamy and fairytale like. Now with the courage (perhaps fuelled by mulled wine) to book Christmas Day away, I booked my first Christmas Day holiday!

Booking My First Package Holiday

Booking my Salzburg trip through EasyJet was, well easy (pun not intended). If I’d tried to book the flights and hotel separately, I’d probably still be mucking about with dates and comparison sites come Christmas 2030. It was such a relief to let someone else handle the details for once.

Since it was a last-minute decision, just two weeks before departure, the price was a little on the festive side, but it included everything I needed; flights, hotels, and even check-in luggage. I made full use of that allowance, of course!

My hotel, the NH Collection Salzburg City, turned out to be a gem; within walking distance of the main Christmas markets and most of the sights. The airport bus conveniently stopped just around the corner on Wolf-Dietrich-Straße, which made arriving stress-free. The room was stylish and comfortable, and for my first-ever package holiday, it all felt wonderfully seamless, almost luxurious. The most amazing Christmas present to myself.

Christmas in Salzburg: What to Expect

Expect a fairytale! Salzburg is pure Christmas magic; Renaissance and baroque architecture and the snow-capped Eastern alps watching over the city like frosted guardians. It feels as if you’ve stepped into a storybook where everything oozes Christmas.

It’s also the birthplace of Silent Night, written by Franz Xaver Gruber and Joseph Mohr. You can’t get more Christmassy than that.

Before you go, make the Advent & Silent Night pages of the Visit Salzburg website your first stop. It became my “Christmas Bible” while planning and during my stay. It’s packed with practical details; market hours, restaurant openings, festive events, and all the little things that make a Salzburg Christmas run smoothly.

What’s Open on Christmas Day

• Restaurants – Some open, but you must book in an advance.
• Markets – Christkindlmarkt and Mirabellplatz are both open 11am – 6pm
• Shops – A few touristy souvenir shops may open briefly but don’t count on it. Some supermarkets in the tourist areas are open.
• Attractions – A handful open with reduced hours:
  • Hohensalzburg Fortress (incl. the funicular)
  • Mirabell Gardens and Orangery
  • Mönchsberg Lift
  • Rainer Regimental Museum
  • Salzburg Cathedral (free entry on 24 & 25 December)
  • Salzberg Zoo
  • and, most delightfully, the Christmas Museum!
• Events – Check the Visit Salzburg events page for concerts and carol services

Christmas Markets

Salzburg’s Christmas markets are legendary; glowing stalls, the scent of cloves and roasted chestnuts, and soundtrack of carols echoing between baroque façades. Do check the Visit Salzburg website for latest times each year, as dates and hours can shift slightly.

💡Tip: Bring cash! Most stalls are cash-only. ATMs are available at Christkindlmarkt, but rates and fees aren’t great.

🎄Christkindlmarkt

Running for over 50 years, this is Salzburg’s grand dame of markets, with more than a 100 food and gift stands set beneath the cathedral towers. After indulging, you can burn off a new pretzels with a pirouette on the nearby Mozartplatz ice rink.

🕒Open from late November to 1st January
🎅🏻Open Christmas Day 11am-6pm.🎅🏻

🎄Mirabellplatz

Set before the graceful Mirabell Palace, this market feels a little more local; all handmade crafts and cosy food stalls.

🕒Open from late November to New Year’s Eve.
🎅🏻Open Christmas Day 11am-6pm.🎅🏻

🎄Hellbrunner Adventzauber

A true fairytale market in the grounds of the Hellbrunn Palace. Perfect for families, with twinkling lights and an abundance of family friendly activities.

🎟️ Entry €8 (free after 7pm and on Christmas Eve).
🕒 Open from late November to Christmas Eve (10am – 2pm)

🎄Stern Advent and Winter Market

Hidden in a courtyard (Sternbräu) between Getreidegasse and Griesgasse, this was my favourite – small, artisanal, and utterly enchanting. This handmade ornaments, woollen crafts, and soft lights overhead.

🕒 Open from late November to early January

🎄Christmas Wonder World (St Peter’s Stiftskulinarium)

More of a snug retreat than a market, this is an elegant spot to sip glühwein and nibble on something delicious between shopping sprees.

🕒 Open from mid November to early January
🎅🏻 Open Christmas Day for dining – reservations only.🎅🏻

🎄Hohensalzburg Fortress

Perched high above the city, Salzburg’s highest Advent market, this one wins on views alone. It closes 21 December, but the trip up is still worthwhile; the fortress restaurant on the lower level has an outdoor bar which sells glühwein and orangenpunsch, with a wonderful panoramic view of Salzburg.

🕒 Open from late November to 21 December (as of 2025)

🎄Charitable Advent Market at the Alter Markt

Organised by the Lions Club Salzburg Mirabell and run by volunteer/charity organisations, this market’s profits go entirely to charity. It closes before Christmas Eve so I sadly missed it, but it came highly recommended.

🕒 Open from late November to 22 December (as of 2025)

Opening Hours & Tips

• Christmas Eve: Everything closes at 3pm sharp. It’s the main celebration day in Austria, when families share dinner and gifts from the Christkind.
• Markets Closures: Some markets finish before Christmas Eve. In 2025, Hohensalzburg Market closed on 21 December, Alter Market on 22 December – so plan early.
• Smaller Markets: Don’t skip them! Stern Advent was the most charming of all.
• Public Transport: Limited bus service on Christmas Eve and Day – Check the Salzburg Verkehr site the holiday timetables. Trains still run within Austria and internationally.
• Supermarkets: selected Spar and Eurospar stores open limited hours on Christmas Day. Check Spar’s main site for holiday opening times.
• Weather: Expect surprises! During my visit, Christmas Day was unusually mild; jumper weather, no coat. While the next day brought icy winds and full winter layers.

How I Spent Christmas Day in Salzburg

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little nervous about Christmas Day, or mildly panicking about what on earth I would eat. The hotel didn’t serve meals apart from breakfast, and the bar only offered a few light snacks. A few restaurants were open, but most required booking well in advance. The main Christmas market in the old town and the Mirabellplatz market both opened from 11am to 6pm, but honestly, after a a full day of market food the day before, I couldn’t face another glühwein-and-pretzel combo.

So my grand plan? A takeaway, a Christmas movie, with the sweet anticipation of baking my own festive dessert later in the evening.

Supermarket Special

In Central London, a few chain cafés and express supermarkets stay open on Christmas Day, so I took a chance on Salzburg’s main train station Eurospar, and it was open. It’s open from 10am to 6pm and was very busy. I stocked up on Austrian snacks and treated myself to a nice brie sandwich for my makeshift Christmas lunch, enjoyed back at the hotel while watching A Man Called Otto – which perhaps isn’t that festive, good movie all the same.

On my way back, I noticed that the Spar on Linzergasse was also opened from noon; so there are options if you find yourself in the same situation. Check Spar’s main site for holiday opening times.

Edelweiss Cooking School

This was the absolute highlight of my day! Edelweiss Cooking School runs Austrian cuisine classes year-round, including a special Christmas Day edition.

We made apple strudel and vanillekipferl, the delicate crescent-shaped Christmas biscuits that appear in every Austrian home come December.

The reward for baking your own Christmas dessert is a hearty goulash for dinner made by the chef himself. A vegetarian alternative is available by request, which was delicious. There were drinks, including alcohol, available to purchase.

I managed to nab a spot in the 4:15pm class and, though I was the only solo baker, I needn’t have worried. A lovely New Zealand couple ‘adopted’ me within minutes, and we immediately found ourselves in a friendly pastry-stretching rivalry with an Australian family (competitive, us Kiwis!?! Of course not!). We learnt how to make filo pastry from scratch, carefully stretching it out as a group. Once the filo was stretched to perfection with no holes, we then filled with the apple filling we had made.

With our strudels in the oven, we set about making the vanillekipferl using these special baking trays to get the crescent shape.

While our creations baked, the room filled with the heavenly scent of warm apples, butter, and vanilla. We tucked into goulash, chatted about travel and home, and waited for the moment we could finally taste our own desserts. It was every bit as comforting and joyful as I’d hoped.

I can’t recommend this experience enough; and if you can’t get a Christmas Day slot, try another during your stay. You can book classes via their website.

That night, I returned to my hotel tired, and genuinely happy. Happier, I think, than if I’d stayed in London. To top it off, the hotel had left a small gift in my room; a packet each of vanillekipferl and stollen. It was small gesture but it did make my Christmas extra special.

Exploring Salzburg Beyond the Christmas Markets

Once I’d had my fill of glühwein, twinkling lights, the festive crowds, I set out to explore Salzburg. I wandered the hill that cradle the city, followed advent and arts walks down cobbled streets and quirky alleyways. I even went to a Christmas event with a delightful twist, a marionette opera!

Each morning I start my day with a black coffee and a cinnamon bun from My Mom’s Cafè on Linzergasse. I’d head down to the Salzach River and sit by the water, watching the city slowly wake up. I normally hop between independent coffee spots when I travel, but My Mom’s coffee was so divine (as was the cinnamon bun) so I didn’t dare stray. And of course I tried the cakes! The verdict? Utterly delicious.

Advent Walk

This Christmassy walk leads you through Salzburg on a gentle Advent journey, weaving together tradition, history, and twinkling corners of the Old Town. The 4km route begins at the Christkindlmarkt, then winds past nativity scenes, Christmas markets, historic courtyards and cobbled streets, and even the former home of one of the Silent Night composers. There’s also a special Punsch stop along the way.

It was a lovely way to spend my Christmas Eve. But a word of warning; some stops on the route are closed during Christmas week. Sporer Liqueur and Punch, for example, shut for a few days over Christmas, which meant I sadly couldn’t bring home their famous orange punch home.

Christmas Museum

I couldn’t possibly visit Salzburg at Christmas without visiting the Christmas Museum. This quaint little museum showcases a private collection of historic Christmas treasures from Austria and Germany, lovingly gathered over 50 years. It’s a quirky and magical experience.

Best of all, it’s open all year round, including Christmas Day, making it Christmas every day.

Salzburg Cathedral

This stunning 17th-century Baroque cathedral is free to enter on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, with multiple masses held throughout the day on the 25th. On regular days, entry is typically €5. Throughout December the cathedral host a programme of Christmas concerts, though none take place Christmas Day itself. Both the Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day services are open to all; a beautiful way to experience the cathedral.

Petersfriedhoft (St Peter’s Cemetery & Catacombs)

This picturesque cemetery is oldest in Salzburg, dating back to the 8th century. Although it’s internationally famous for its appearance it The Sound of Music, its baroque tombs, ivy-clad arcades, and peaceful gardens are what truly make it captivating. For €2, you can also explore the catacombs, carved directly into the rock of Festungsberg – a fascinating glimpse into Salzburgs early Christian history. Do note that the catacombs are closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, though the cemetery itself remains open.

Hohensalzburg Fortress

There are two ways to reach the Hohensalzburg Fortress; take the FestungsBahn funicular or tackle the steep walk up the mountain. I wasn’t feeling the latter so I decided upon the funicular. It was a fun, and cheap way, to go up for under €4 for one-way and €6 return. I did descend via the path, which was okay.

Because it was Christmas Eve, and I arrived just before 3pm, the indoor areas had already closed (they had shut at 2pm). Even so, the fortress was still a place to wander; quiet and atmospheric.

There was a small mercy. An outdoor stall was still open, serving glühwein and orangenpunsch to the last stragglers. I settled on the ramparts with an orangenpunsch, watching the city fall into its Christmas Eve stillness.

Views from the fortress

Afterwards, I explored the grounds at my own pace, admiring the architecture, peeking into the little chapel, and soaking up the 360-degree panoramic views of Salzburg and snow-dusted mountains beyond. The castle grounds and chapel are free to wander, but the museums and state rooms require a ticket, starting at €11.20 for the basic entry.

🎅🏻The fortress also hosts Christmas concerts, including Christmas Day. If you’re visiting over the festive season, check the Salzburg Highlights website for schedules and tickets.🎅🏻

Salzburger Marionettentheater

If you’d told me that I’d be spending an evening watching Mozart’s, The Magic Flute, performed by marionettes, I would have assumed you had lost the plot. Yet there I was and it wasn’t madness at all. It was magical and absolutely enchanting. And this is coming from someone who doesn’t even like opera.

They perform a shorter version of The Magic Flute too, perfect for children (or adults with short attention spans and a fondness for puppets).

The Salzburg Marionette Theatre, founded in 1913 and is housed in a beautiful 1893 building, and now proudly listed by UNESCO as part of the world’s Intangible Cultural.

If opera is not for you, don’t worry. Their repertoire stretches far beyond Mozart; plays, fairytales, musicals, and classics. It’s well worth checking their website for see what’s on during your visit.

A Walk in the Mountains

If there’s one walk I would recommend, it’s heading up into Salzburg’s city mountains. There five of them; Kapuzinerberg, Rainberg, Festungsberg, Hellbrunner Berg, and Mönchsberg. I chose Mönchsberg, partly because I’d already conquered Festungsberg the previous day when visiting the fortress.

You can walk from the Fortress across to Mönchsberg, but I started at Max-Reinhardt-Platz, taking the stairs just beyond the tunnel where the Frau im Fels (“Woman in the Rock”) silently watches over the entrance. I ended the walk at the 15th Century Gothic Müllner Kirche.

The views along the way were spectacular; the snow-capped Berchtesgaden Alps lining the Austrian/German border, and Salzburg’s Old Town unfolding beneath like a baroque postcard. Mönchsberg is steeped in history too; only a few minutes into the climb, I reached Bürgerwehr, a 15th-century fortification with jaw-dropping views of the Alps. I could have stayed there all day.

Eventually, I dragged myself away and I popped into the Museum of Modern Art to add a little culture to the excursion. The museum’s café terrace has some of the best panoramic views of the Old Town.

Suitably cultured, I continued down the mountain and made my way down past Augustinerpforte and Monikapforte, which once formed part of the 17th-century “new” city wall. By the time I reached Müllner Kirche, I had two tempting choices; carry on to the Augustiner Bräu for a celebratory pint, or retreat to my hotel and thaw out my very cold, very tired legs.

I chose the latter, it had been a long, icy day and the warmth of the hotel won the battle.

City Walks – Creative Walk

Würth Sculpture Garden

There are many city walks available on the Visit Salzburg website. However, if you love art like me, then the Creative Walk is for you! Beginning at the main railway station, this 7.7 km route leads you through Salzburg’s more contemporary side – past striking modern architecture, the serene Würth Sculpture Garden, and a handful of museums and galleries. You’ll also follow the Walk of Modern Art, a trail of 13 sculptures created by internationally renowned artists as part of the Salzburg Art Project.

Clockwise from top left; “Spirit of Mozart” – Marina Abramovic, “Gurken” – Erwin Wurm, Sleeping House – Not Vital, “Caldera”, Anthony Cragg, “Woman in the Rock” – Stephan Balkenhol, “Hommage to Mozart” – Markus Lüpertz

Reflections: The Joy of Doing Christmas Your Own Way

I’m so pleased I finally took the leap and spent Christmas Day away from home. Salzburg was the perfect place to begin this new tradition – it was warm, welcoming, and unexpectedly freeing. It also opened my eyes to something I’d never really considered; so many people travel for Christmas. I wasn’t an anomaly. I wasn’t the odd one out.

I’d worried I might feel lonely, or judged, or somehow like the odd one out. Instead, I felt the opposite. I felt more at ease wandering Salzburg on my own than I ever did spending Christmas in London surrounded by people. There was no pressure, no explanations to give, no awkward sense of being the guest at someone else’s table. Just a quiet acceptance from the people I met, and from myself.

It might sound strange, but being away felt more like “home” than all those other Christmases ever did. And that’s the thing about Christmas, they’re deeply personal. Some people flourish in the bustle of family traditions. Others, like me, find peace in carving out a Christmas of their own. There’s no right way to do it, only the way that feels right for you.

I was a little reserved on this trip, perhaps because everything was new, or because I got the walking bug over throwing myself into the markets. But Vienna the following year was a completely different story. I threw myself headlong into the full Christmas abroad experience.

It’s now become a tradition now; I’ve reclaimed my Christmas as my own and I have a new way of finding joy in new places. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Scenes of Salzburg at Christmas

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴