Cinque Terre in the Rain: A Colourful Adventure Against the Storm

After settling my bill at reception, I made my way to Tirano station where I was directed to the bus station. Thankfully, the bus station was easy to find – there is a subway to the right of the train station that leads to the bus station. The bus was late, which added to my nerves. When it finally arrived, we set off through the Sondrio countryside. Although we were delayed reaching Colico, the connecting train was waiting for us, which was a huge relief. We were quickly ushered abroad, the conductor yelling for passengers to remove bags from seats. I was lucky to grab a window seat of the lake side, rewards with stunning views of Lake Como as we journeyed on.

The whole leg from Tirano to Milan cost just £10/€12 – it was a regional service so there was no seat reservations.

From Milan to La Spezia, I upgraded to a first-class Intercity ticket for only £32.50/€38. I managed to secure a solo seat, which was wonderfully spacious. The train ride itself was smooth and comfortable, I don’t remember if there were complimentary drinks, but I’d come prepared with a takeaway lunch which I brought from Pan Brioche in Milan station (a classic mozzarella, tomato, and basil panino). With just a 20-minute transfer window, I didn’t have time to explore the grandeur of Milano Centrale, but even in passing, it left a strong impression.

La Spezia: The Smart Base for Exploring the Ligurian Coast

I arrived in La Spezia at 3:20pm, an ideal time to settle without feeling rushed. Once I got my bearings, I made my way to my Airbnb; a cute studio apartment with a balcony, tucked away behind the train station on the other side of the tracks.

I chose La Spezia as my base because it was far more affordable than staying in one of the Cinque Terre villages. Riomaggiore, the first village, is only a 7-minute train ride away; Genoa is an hour, and Porto Venere just 35 minutes by boat. And with the added conveniences of a city amenities, it really felt like the smart choice.

After settling into the apartment, I headed out for a walk along the waterfront, keeping an eye out for a supermarket to stock up on supplies. I found myself wandering through the gardens by the waterfront, then onto Via del Prione, a pedestrian lane lined with shops, bakeries, and restaurants. There, I discovered La Gabbianella, a charming little gift shop filled with homeware and ceramics. I picked up a magnet for my collection.

Eventually, I found a Carrefour Express on Via di Monale, which opens late, perfect when you’re returning from a long day of exploring. I stocked up on pasta and Genoese pesto, which would become my staple dinner during my stay.

Trains, Rain, and Changing Plans

Nothing ever quite goes to plan when travelling, and that’s half the adventure.

On my first full day on the Ligurian coast, I woke up to torrential rain and storm warnings. The ferries weren’t running, which rules out a visit to Porto Venere. Clutching at hope, I checked the Cinque Terre National Park website to see if the hiking trails might still be opened – but they were closed too.

I had a three-day Cinque Terre Train Plus (which includes unlimited train travel and access to the paid hiking paths) that I needed to start using, so I decided to make the best of it; a “Train in the Rain” trip. Always the optimist, I put on my hiking gear and set off for an adventure on the rails instead of the trails.

At La Spezia station, I stopped by the Cinque Terre National Park Welcome Office to find out if there was any chance the trails might reopen later that day, or even the next day. The answer was a firm no; the storms were expected to last another two or three days. And that the end of my original hiking plans. Another hindsight moment; I could have brought and selected my pass at the Welcome Office when I arrived, instead of paying for a card I wouldn’t fully use. But what if I hadn’t booked in advance and the passes had sold out? Travelling is all about balancing hope and risk.

Riomaggiore

My first stop was Riomaggiore. My original plan was to travel to the furthest village and work my way back to La Spezia, but I think I still had hiking on my mind as the trail from Riomaggiore to Mandola is a one-way route.

Leaving the station, I noticed a few people heading toward the Via dell’Amore, the coastal path connecting Riomaggiore and Mandola. There were clear signs at the station saying the trail was closed, and I didn’t wait around to see if they would be turned away. When I say the rain was torrential, I really mean it; sheets of water, thunder in the distance, and a landscape swallowed in mist.

From the station, I made my way to the main shopping street, via Cristoforo Colombo. The weather was so bad that all the cafés and most of the shops were shuttered. I found one shop open, Enoteca D’uu Scintu, a great little wine and souvenir shop selling Cinque Terre products. I happily picked up a bottle of Cinque Terre Limoncino (the regional name for limoncello) from Cantina Sassarini, a winery tucked away in the hills of Cinque Terre, along with a jar of Genoese pesto (at that point, I hadn’t yet planned to visit Genoa). Purchases in hand, there was only one thing left to do; explore the village, and explore I did.

I wandered along via Alcide de Gasperi, which offered the most beautiful views back over the colourful houses stacked along the hillside. Along this route, I came across the Church of San Giovanni Battista, a gothic-style church built in 1340, and the Castello di Riomaggiore, a fortress dating from 1260. It was at the castello that I found shelter from the rain under the porch of the Oratorio di San Rocco, a small chapel next to the castle. Also sheltering there was a group from New Zealand. We chatted about home and our travels around the world until the rain eased a little.

Making my way back down to the village, the rain picked up again. Not letting it deter me, I wandered through the winding alleyways, climbing up and down slippery stone steps to see where they might lead. My attempt to walk along the harbour was short-lived, the stormy winds drove me back toward the station for my onward journey to Monterosso al Mare.

Drenched but determined, I left Riomaggiore behind, ready to see what Monterosso al Mare had in store – rain or shine.

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare was always meant to be my next stop, just not quite the way it happened! My original plan was to take the express train (‘express’ meaning express unlike the Cinque Terre Express) all the way to Monterosso and then work my way back towards La Spezia. But earlier, a bit absentmindedly, I got off at Riomaggiore instead. From there, I accidentally boarded the express train, which, after stopping at Riomaggiore, runs fast to Monterosso. In a funny twist of fate, I found myself right back on track with my original plan. The Kiwis I’d met earlier made the same mistake, and from that point on, we kept on crossing paths, joking that we were ‘stalking’ each other down the Cinque Terre.

Monterosso is divided into two parts, marked by the medieval Aurora Tower. With the rain finally easing, I spent a happy hour wandering along the coastline to the old town, losing myself in its narrow medieval streets and alleyways, lined with colourful terraced houses, shops, and restaurants. It was here I were brought my Cinque Terre fridge magnet, still my favourite from the whole trip. I also paused to visit the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista, a beautiful 13th-century Gothic-Genovese style church tucked among the winding streets.

As I made my way back to the train station, I caught a sight of a few people attempting to walk the costal trail, despite the storm warnings and official closures. Any fleeting thoughts of joining them quickly disappeared, it wasn’t worth ending up on the Italian news for all the wrong reasons!

Leaving Monterosso al Mare behind, I caught the train to my next stop, Vernazza, curious to see what adventures waited there.

Vernazza

I didn’t spend a lot of time in Vernazza, only about 30 minutes, but it was time well spent. It was late afternoon, and my stomach had started to grumble. This small fishing village was the most stunning of my Cinque Terre exploration, which explained why it was also one of the busiest.

After a quick visit to Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia, I purchased misto di pesce con verdure (mixed fish cone, with vegetables) from Trattoria da Sandro to take away and eat by the harbour. With the rain clouds finally chased away by the sun, I found the perfect spot with an unobstructed view overlooking the harbour and the church. It turned out to be a well-sought-after spot; soon, a tourist family appeared, standing nearby and closely watching me, clearly waiting for me to move. There were plenty of places to with the same view, so to this day I still don’t understand what was so special about my spot. I was seated at the end of the bench and couldn’t shuffle over, and they could easily have sat next to me if they wanted.

I refused to budge, but after a while, the unwanted attention made me uncomfortable. I finished my lunch and headed up a set of stone stairs to an old lookout point. Upon reaching the top, I discovered that the same family had followed me up, which was baffling, because they had definitely taken the spot I had vacated. Somehow, I had unintentionally become their tour guide. They never said a word to me, not at the harbour, nor at the lookout. My anxiety skyrocketed, and I knew I needed to escape somewhere quieter. I ended up leaving Vernazza without even making it to Castello Doria.

Leaving the busy lanes of Vernazza behind, I boarded the train once more, heading toward the hilltop village of Corniglia, the only Cinque Terre village not directly o the sea.

Corniglia

It started to drizzle as the train pulled into Corniglia station. Looking towards Manarola, I could see storm clouds rolling across. Hoping they would pass, I made my way up the hill to the village.

To reach Corniglia, you have to climb the Lardarina staircase, a winding series of 382 stairs. Alternatively, there’s a shuttle bus up from the station. I wish I could say the staircase wasn’t too bad, but even the fittest were struggling. Thankfully, the views from the staircase towards Manarola were a perfect excuse to pause and catch my breath. At the top, I immediately ducked into a small pharmacy. The Ligurian mosquitos had taken a real liking to me, and I was covered head to toe in painful, itchy bites. The pharmacist was wonderfully polite and helpful, quickly sending me on my way with bite cream and antihistamines.

As with the other villages, I spent a good hour exploring. I soon came across the Oratorio dei Disciplinati di Santa Caterina, a tiny chapel at the top of a flight of steps. Walking behind it, I discovered a little football pitch and an amazing view over the coast. I rested on a bench for a while (those stairs demanded it!) and soaked up the atmosphere.

Feeling recharged, I wandered along the main street, Via Solferino, right to the end, where I was rewarded with a terrace offering another stunning panorama.

Realising I hadn’t yet had any gelato since arriving in Italy, I decided to fix that. I won’t name the gelateria (they usually have good reviews), but perhaps it was my poor choice of flavours – mango and lemon – because the mango gelato was so bad I had to throw it away. At first, I thought the staff member was rushing me to choose, but perhaps the filthy look she gave me was because of my order!

After disposing of my sad gelato, I made my way up to Chiesa Di San Pietro, a Catholic church built in 1334. From its churchyard, I had an incredible view of the village and of the storm clouds, now right overhead. Within moments, the heavens opened, and Corniglia and her visitors were absolutely drenched.

I raced toward the shuttle bus stop, but despite being one of the first to arrive, I was one of the last to board, meaning no seat. I had no choice but to descend the staircase again, in a full-blown downpour. I probably should have elbowed my way onto that bus like everyone else!

You can’t see it in my photos, but a waterfall had started to pour down the stairs, and everyone was picking their way down carefully. By that point, I gave up trying to stay dry, my waterproof jacket was no match for the rain. True to form, the rain stopped as soon as I reached the station.

Next stop: Manarola — hoping for sunshine, but ready for more adventure.

Manarola

Manarola is the second smallest village in Cinque Terre (with Corniglia being the smallest) and also the oldest. Vernazza was the most stunning, but Manarola easily wins the title of the prettiest village I visited.

From the station, the village is accessed through a pedestrian tunnel that opens onto the small Piazza Dario Capellini. Exiting the tunnel, I did what I always do, headed in the opposite direction to the crowds, climbing towards the top of the town where most of the restaurants are located. The rain was on and off the entire time I was there, but by then I didn’t care anymore – the damage was done, I couldn’t get any wetter.

I made my way down to the marina and soon found myself walking the coastal path which leads to Nessun Dorma restaurant and the famous Manarola Overlook Viewpoint. From there, you get the most incredible views back towards the village. If I could give just one recommendation for Cinque Terre, it would be this; you must experience that view. I hear Nessum Dorma is fantastic too, though looking like a drowned rat, I doubt they would have let me in!

Bu then it was getting late, and I was wet and tired. I briefly considered revisiting Riomaggiore but decided that my priority was getting back to La Spezia for a nice hot shower and a hearty bowl of pasta.

What I Would Recommend

After spending a whirlwind day exploring the Cinque Terre, soaked to the bone but grinning ear to ear, I learnt a few things I would definitely keep in mind if I ever return, and a few tips that might help you plan your own adventure a little smoother.

Using La Spezia as a base – pros and cons

Staying in La Spezia was a great decision for me. It’s much cheaper than staying in the villages themselves, there’s a wide choice of accommodation and food, and it’s very well connected, train to Cinque Terre villages run regularly, and the ride is quick. Plus, La Spezia itself has its own charm if you have some time to explore.

The downside? After a long day of exploring (especially in the rain), sometimes you just wish you could tumble straight into your bed rather than catch another train back. If you’re looking for that postcard “wake up in the village” experience, then staying inside Cinque Terre itself might be more your style. But for flexibility and budget, La Spezia is a fantastic base.

Ideal itinerary tips

If I had a little more time (and slightly better weather!), I would split the Cinque Terre visits across two days. One day could be spent hiking the trails between the villages (especially the iconic Vernazza – Monterosso trail when open), and the other focused on exploring the villages at a slower pace. I’d also add in a ferry ride between some of the villages, seeing Cinque Terre from the water would be spectacular.

What surprised me about Cinque Terre

I knew Cinque Terre would be busy, but I didn’t expect how busy, even in terrible weather! The villages are small, and it doesn’t take much for them to feel packed. I was also surprised how steep and physically demanding the walking can be, even within the villages, you’re going up and down steps and hills constantly.

And honestly? I wasn’t expecting the sheer charm overload. Every time I turned a corner, there was another perfect little alleyway, crumbling pastel building, or jaw-dropping coastal view. It’s touristy, yes, but it’s also still every bit as magical as the photos suggest.

Practical Info

Getting to La Spezia

I arrived in La Spezia by train, travelling from Tirano. The Italian train network is efficient and well-connected, and I booked my tickets easily through Trenitalia. La Spezia is a major stop, so you’ll find frequent regional and Intercity trains arriving here.

Getting to Cinque Terre from La Spezia

From La Spezia Centrale station, it’s easy to reach the Cinque Terre villages. Trains run regularly and reach the first village (Riomaggiore) in just about 7 minutes. After that, it’s only a few minutes between each village. I recommend starting early in the day to beat the heavier crowds.

Train Passes and Ticket Tips

I brought a Cinque Terre Train Card, which gives unlimited train travel between La Spezia and Levanto (including all Cinque Terre stops), plus access to paid hiking trails. However, with the weather and trail closures, I didn’t get full use of it – in hindsight, it might be better to check the forecast first and buy the pass at the station on the day. If you’re only planning to visit one of two villages, single tickets might be more economical.

Snacks, Water, and Crowds

Bring snacks and water with you! Most villages have little shops and cafés, but they can be pricey and get absolutely packed during peak hours. If you see a supermarket (like Carrefour Express in La Spezia), stock up before you head out for the day.

Crowds are part of the experience, but early mornings and later afternoons are noticeably calmer. I also found that the higher up you climb in each village, the fewer people you’ll encounter.

Footwear Notes

Even if you’re not hiking the trails, good shoes are essential! the villages are steep, cobbled, and full of stairs. After my rainy adventure, I can confirm that slippery cobblestones and sandals are a dangerous combination. Hiking shoes, trail runners, or sturdy trainers are your best bet, especially if there’s rain in the forecast.

Important Ticket Tip

If you buy paper train tickets (like single journey tickets between villages), make sure to validate them before boarding. You’ll find small green or yellow validation machines at the station, just insert your ticket until you hear it stamp. Fines are steep if you forget, and the ticket inspectors do check regularly, even on short rides.

If you have a Cinque Terre Train Card, you only need to validate it once before your first journey.

Final Thoughts

While I would have loved to return to Cinque Terre during my trip to properly hike the famous trails under sunnier skies, I realised that for me, one full day exploring the villages was enough. I experienced the charm, the colours, the energy – even in the rain.

The unexpected stormy weather turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as it led me to two spontaneous day trips to Genoa and Porto Venere, both of which became real highlights of my time on the Ligurian coast. Sometimes, when travel doesn’t go to plan, it opens the door to even better adventures.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴