Paris, France

Last Updated on 1st January 2019

My New Year’s resolution is to visit Paris and Europe more in 2019, so expect this post to be updated on a regular basis. Which I should have done in 2018 while the international passport lines were short.

Paris was the first European city I visited when I first moved to the UK many years ago and its being one of my favourite cities since. Its such a beautiful city and I’ve always found the Parisians to be very welcoming. However, despite it only being a 2 hour train journey away (the same amount of time it takes me to get to work in London) I don’t get there enough.

As I looked through my photos from Paris there was something not quite right. They didn’t match the itinerary I had planned for my few days there, plus there was a serious lack of photos of the areas I had visited. Then I remembered, I had suffered with bad anxiety during my visit! I had read so many travel blogs telling me if I wanted to enjoy Paris I should dress like a Parisian, no trainers and no flip flops. Paris is the city of fashionistas therefore you should dress like one. Arriving in Paris I was so very self-conscious about my appearance; having recently gained a lot of weight my nice clothes didn’t quite fit anymore, my beautiful chic winter coat was tight. I caved into myself, walking around with my head down to avoid eye contact with those that were judging me.

It wasn’t until my final day that I started to feel comfortable with my surroundings therefore was able to enjoy myself. Everyone I had encountered while I explored the city had been so lovely and friendly. No-one really cared how I was dressed. I don’t know why I paid any attention to these blogs. Any blog or article that tells you how to dress to fit in, beyond practical measures (i.e wear hiking boots or thermals), isn’t really worth the reading effort. Dress in which ever way you feel comfortable, dress like you!

During this particular trip, I avoided the crowd by exploring areas that were off the tourist radar. Also, in late February there is hardly anyone around which is baffling because Paris is beautiful no matter what time of year it is.

DAY 1

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

I don’t know what it is about the Notre Dame but I’m always drawn there. To beat the crowds I made this my first destination for the day. From the beautiful stained windows to the exquisite stone masonry, this Gothic cathedral is completely worth its UNESCO status.

Entry to the cathedral is free but if you want to scale the tower there is an entrance fee of €10 or free with the Paris Museum Pass. If you want to beat the queues for the towers, download the Jefile app which is the only way you can book a scheduled time to visit the towers.

Stop for Ice-Cream

You can’t leave Paris without having an ice-cream from Berthillon ( 31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile). From Notre Dame, cross the Pont Saint-Louis and continue along Rue Saint-Louis en I’Ile until you reach the original Berhillon at no. 31. Alternatively, you can stop at the tea room on Quai d’Orléans. Open Wednesday – Sunday and expect queues, especially during the summer.

Visit the Institut Du Monde Arabe

When I look through my photos of past trips, there are places I can’t remember why I visited. Did someone recommend it? Did curiosity drag me in? The Arab World Institute (1 Rue des Fossés) is one of these places. This stunning Jean Nouvel designed building has to be one of Paris’ best kept secrets. The museum is open to the general public and should definitely not be missed. The lack of crowds meant I was able to see most of the exhibits unhindered and take time to study the artefacts and artworks.

After visiting the Arabic art and history collections, make your way up to the rooftop on the 9th floor for one of the best views of Paris and an opportunity to snap this awesome shot of the Notre Dame.

Place des Vosges

Place des Vosges, located in the Marais district, is a beautiful 17th century square surrounded by Louis XIII-style architecture. Named as a tribute to the French Revolution (after the Vosges region which was the first to pay taxes to the Republic) Paris’ oldest square is now home to arts galleries and cafés. One of its most famous former residents is Victor Hugo; his home is now a museum which you can visit. Head to Place des Vosges after a day of exploring Marais to relax with a drink in one of the cafés or simply chill out in the square’s gardens with a good book (preferably Victor Hugo).

DAY 2

Visit the Dead at Pére Lachaise Cemetery

I’m a bit weird when it comes to visiting cemeteries. I hate them (mainly due to my necrophobia; I can’t even walk pass a cemetery) but at the same time I am fascinated by the historic significance of them. You will find some fascinating and ornate monuments to the dead in Pére Lachaise cemetery (8 boulevard de Menilmontant). I wasn’t bothered with finding the dead famous so freely roamed about, at a quick pace. A free map of the cemetery at the conservation office at the rue du repos entrance, should you wish to seek out the famous graves.

Enjoy a Secret View of Paris (with a Picnic)

Belleville Rendez-vous is one of my favourite movies (along with Amelie), so when I came across this tip it immediately when to the top of my must-do list.

For the best uncrowded panoramic view of the Paris skyline, head up to Parc de Belleville. This beautiful park gives you uninterrupted views of the Eiffel Tower, the gold Dôme des Invalides, Notre Dame and the Pompidou Centre. If visiting during the summer, it’s worth considering enjoying the view while picnicking.

If you have the time, explore Belleville. This childhood home of Edith Piaf not only has the best view of Paris but has great arts and food scenes. You’ll find plenty of wonderful street art and there is also the Marché de Belleville food market, open Tuesday – Friday mornings.

Canal Saint-Martin

I wanted to stay clear of Paris’ tourist spots but I fancied a stroll along the Parisian riverside. I discovered, much to my delight, that the Seine isn’t the only waterway in Paris, there is also its pretty younger sibling, the Canal Saint-Martin.

If you are taking stroll along the canal, you can stop off at one of the many cafés or bars for lunch or dinner. Try Le Comptoir General (80 Quai de Jemmapes) for good food in a hipster environment. Alternatively, if the sun is out, buy bread or danishes from Du Pain et Des Idées (34 rue Yves Toudic) for a picnic by the canal.

DAY 3

Take a Stroll Down the Street of the Rose Bushes

Based in the Jewish Quarter of Paris, the cobblestoned Rue des Rosiers has been home to Paris’s Jewish community since the middle ages. Along the street you will find gastronomic delights, fashionable boutiques and High Street favourites. The latter sadly being a by-product of gentrification of the area. Queue at L’As du Falalel for lunch or nip across the road to Florence Kahn’s to stock up on some Yiddish specialities. The options are endless!

My visit to Rue des Rosiers coincided with the 2015 terror attack on Charlie Hebdo and the kosher supermarket in Porte de Vincennes. As a result there was a huge army and armed police presence in Paris, which was more reassuring than intimidating. However, half down Rue des Rosiers I was suddenly greeted by a huge tank accompanied by armed soldiers. I quickly took a photo of the old Jo Goldenberg building and got out of there. I didn’t stick around to find out why there was a need for an actual tank in metropolitan Paris.

Walk the Bridges (but don’t padlock them)

With 37 bridges in Paris, it would be impossible to explore them all (unless you lived in Paris). The Pont Neuf, above, is the oldest standing bridge, built in 1607 to replace the older crumbing wooden bridges. Walking across this bridge will deposit you on the Il de la Citè, home to Notre Dame and Sainte Chapelle.

My favourite is the Pont des Arts connects the Institut de France to the Louvre. I crossed from the Institut through to the Lourve, where I stopped for coffee and a bit of people watching. Those ugly boards in my photos are covering the rails so more love locks can be added (more about the love locks later).

Other bridges that should be on your list are Pont Alexandre III which is Paris’ most ornate bridge with gilded statues and Art Nouveau lamps. There is also Paris’ newest bridge Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir. This wavy bridge is pedestrian only and links the French National Library and Parc de Bercy.

Pont de l’Archevêché became an alternative for love locks after Pont des Arts was cleared of its love locks and its railings covered with glass. While a romantic gesture these love locks are damaging Paris’ historic bridges. Century old railings were/are collapsing under the weight of these locks and falling, lost forever, into the Seine. The bridges themselves were in danger of collapsing under the weight of these locks. Paris City Council are looking for an alternative place for these locks. In the meantime, find another way to celebrate your love which doesn’t involve defacing another countries historic monuments. Find a memento, like a selfie of you kissing on a Parisian bridge, which you can take home with you and cherish it forever.

Gaze in Awe at Saint Chapelle’s Beauty

Sainte Chapelle is simply beautiful, the above photo does not do it justice. You have to see the chapel for yourself to understand and appreciate its true beauty. It’s always my first suggestion for Paris should I be asked.

The chapel is located in the Palais de Justice therefore security is very strict therefore don’t take what could be deemed a prohibited item. I saw a few tourists refused entry because they had very sharp items on them. If you do get refused entry, don’t argue with security. Return the item to your hotel and visit another time.

Shopping

Paris is full of shopping options for that unique souvenir. I don’t tend to spend a lot on souvenirs when travelling but I aways try to find something special to take home with me.

When I entered Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie) I thought I had died and gone to bookworm heaven! Founded in 1951 by American George Whitman, this English-language bookshop is filled to the rafters with new and secondhand books. Each book purchased is stamped inside with the shop’s hallmark and a bookmark tucked in (I lost mine during the great coffee spillage disaster of the East London line). If you’ve worked up an appetite after browsing through all those books, there is a Shakespeare & Co cafė next door where you can stop for afternoon tea or delicious vegetarian food.

I love macarons! There are plenty of French bakeries in London, Ladurée being one of them, but nothing beats buying (and eating) a macaron in Paris. When in Paris, I always buy a box to take home with me (which usually gets scoffed in one sitting). My favourite place to buy macarons is Pierre Hermé, a macaron and chocolate shop with branches all over Paris and the world (including London).

My other favourite shopping experience in Paris is the covered passages. During this trip, I decided to go window shopping in Passage Jouffroy. It was the antique shops that enticed me to this glass ceiling passage; one of my passions is finding quirky items to decorate my home. But, alas, window shopping was the only type of shopping I could afford to do.

A special mention for the highly recommended Saint-Ouen flea market. I’ve never been because I am never in Paris when it’s open (Saturday – Monday) but it is firmly on my bucket list. Go and make me jealous.

Eating Veggie Style

The French don’t tend to do vegetarian very well. My meals while in France usually consist mainly of pasta and tomato sauce or bread and cheese. But I must say that this is rapidly improving, especially in Paris. I was pleasantly surprised during my French holiday in September 2018, in comparison to my last trip in 2017 there were definitely more vegan and vegetarian options.

I did arrive in Paris with a few recommendations but I do tend to forget to eat when I’m travelling. Bob’s (128-162 Avenue de France) was one such recommendation, they also cater the Shakespeare & Co café. As was L’As du Fallafel (rue des Rosiers) which I missed out on simply because of its popularity (expect very long queues, especially during lunch time) and my busy schedule.  Ain’t got no time to queue for a falafel! I did manage to sample a delicious vegan burger from Hank’s Burger (55 Rue des Archives), but only because I passed it on my way home one night.

Getting There

Eurostar is a stress free way to travel to Paris, if you live in London.  There are no long journeys to the airport nor to do you have to be there a million hours in advance to get through security and walk 200 miles to the departure gate. For the Eurostar, you need to be there at the station at least 45 minutes before departure, 30 minutes absolute minimum.

If you want to snap up a cheap ticket, booking in advance is a must. I booked this trip two months in advance and manage to get a business class ticket for the same price as a standard ticket. When you travel also makes a huge difference. Ticket prices are cheaper for the first and last trains of the day, also midweek tends to be cheaper.

Where did I stay?

Good ole Airbnb. I found a lovely affordable studio apartment right in the heart of fashionable Le Marais, surrounded by bakeries serving delicious cakes and walking distance to almost everywhere.