36 Hours in Florence: Frescoes, Food & Florentine Flair

Florence is a living museum of art, architecture, and Renaissance intrigue; but it’s also a vibrant, walkable city filled with gelato, golden light, and quiet corners. Whether you’re here for a weekend escape or passing through on a rail adventure, here’s how to make the most of 36 hours in Florence.

It is also one of my favourite cities in the world. I fell in love with Florence when I first visited as a young wee thing on a 18-35 tour many years ago. I just love the culture and the vibe of the city, it’s not intense like Rome, it’s more chilled and relaxed. I always feel like I can take my time to enjoy the city, no-one is around to rush me or try to push me in a direction I don’t want to take. It’s very lovely, beautiful, and friendly city.

You can find full details about my time in Florence, including what I thought about each attraction, in the following posts:

Getting There

• Arrival by train: Florence Santa Maria Novella (Firenze SMN) is the main train station. You can walk to most central attraction within 15-20 minutes.
• Arrival from La Spezia/Genoa/Lucca: Regional trains run frequently and are an easy, scenic way to arrive.
• Local transport: Florence is best explored on foot. Wear comfortable shoes and prepare for cobblestones!

Where I Stayed

Location: Right on Piazza del Duomo
Type: Airbnb
Perks: I was able to beat the crowds (mostly!) with early morning starts and quick dashes across the piazza.

Luck was on my side when it came to finding a place to stay in Florence. I know the advice is; don’t book a brand-new Airbnb listing with no reviews for safety reasons. But someone has to be first, right?

The host had several other well-reviewed properties in Florence, so I felt reasonably confident. Because it was a new listing, at £80 per night for an apartment directly opposite the Duomo, the price was exceptionally low. Here’s the link to the listing on the host’s website, it doesn’t seem to be available on Airbnb anymore, but the current price still looks quite fair for the location. That said, judging by more recent reviews, there appears to be some recurring issues with the apartment, so I’d only recommend it for a short stay of 1-2 nights just for the location alone.

Exploring Florence

Day 1: Arrival, Wanders, and a Sunset by the Arno

My time in Florence began the moment I stepped off the train onto the platform. It was just after midday, and with check-in not until 3pm, I had a few hours to fill. I dropped my suitcase off at Locker in the City on via Luigi Alamanni and set off to explore the city.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

📍Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 18, 50123
🕰️ Monday – Thursday & Saturday: 9am – 5:30pm. Friday & public holidays: 11am – 5:30pm. Sunday & Holy Days: 1pm – 5pm
🎟️ Adults: €7.50. Ages 11yrs – 18yrs: €5.00. Children under 11: Free

Founded by Dominican monks in the 13th century, the basilica is a treasure trove of Renaissance art and architecture. The green-and-white marble façade, designed in part by Leon Battista Alberti, is a masterpiece in itself, with it precise geometric patterns and classical harmony.

The vast space is home to important works by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, and Filippino Lippi; each corner revealing another unexpected details or delicate fresco. One of the most striking is Masaccio’s Trinity, a revolutionary fresco for its time, using linear perspective to create an almost 3D effect long before the technique became standard.

Mercato Centrale

📍Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Via dell’Ariento, 50123
🕰️ Daily 9am – 11pm. Friday and Saturday until midnight.
🎟️ Free entry. Pay for food and drinks.

Housed in the historic San Lorenzo Market building, the structure dates back to the 1870s but was transformed in 2014 into a vibrant, modern food hub. The updated space now stretches across two floors, filled with 20 artisan food stalls, all celebrating Tuscan seasonal flavours. It’s the kind of place where you order what you fancy, grab a drink, and find a table; no reservations, no fuss. The informality suited me perfectly, which is why I went back the following evening.

Sunset over the Arno & the Bridges of Florence

After dinner, I continued to wander the streets of Florence, slowly making my way toward the Arno to catch the sunset. I crossed over Ponte Santa Trinita, which gave me the perfect vantage point of Ponte Vecchio lit up to my left, the sun dipping down behind Ponte all Carraia to my right.

The Ponte alla Carraia, to the west, stands on the site of Florence’s oldest bridge, originally built of wood in 1218. As with many medieval wooden structures, it didn’t last long. Over the centuries, it was rebuilt multiple times until the current version was constructed in 1948, after the German army destroyed the previous one during their retreat in World War II.

The Ponte Santa Trinita, where I watched the sunset, suffered a similar fate. First built in the 16th century (1569), it was also demolished in 1944 during the war. But in a remarkable act of reconstruction, it was rebuilt in 1958 using original stones from the Arno. Even the four statues representing the Four Seasons, which had been tossed into the river, were salvaged and returned to their places. The bridge can get crowded, but it offers arguably the best view of the Ponte Vecchio.

The star attraction is the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge in Florence to survive the destruction of WWII. This medieval bridge is iconic, not only for its charming arches but for the shops built directly onto it. Once homes to butchers, tanners, and farmers, the bridge underwent a transformation in 1565, when Duke Cosimo l de’ Medici ordered that only goldsmiths and jewellers could operate there, to enhance the bridge’s prestige. Today, it’s lined with sparkling displays, souvenir stalls, and art dealers, buzzing with tourists yet holding onto its centuries-old charm.

A Nighttime Walk Through Florence

I felt completely safe walking around Florence on my own at night. But in truth, I was never truly alone. It was a warm summer’s evening, and the streets were alive with people. Locals, tourists, couples, and families… solo travellers …all drifting through the city.

I don’t have a specific route to recommend, just follow your instincts. Stick to the well-lit streets, avoid the quieter alleys, and be mindful of your surroundings. Sometimes, the best way to experience Florence is simply to let it guide you.

Day 2: Saints, Sculptures, and Sweet Treats

Duomo di Firenze

📍Piazza del Duomo
🕰️ Depends on monument. See website for more details
🎟️ Cathedral only: Free. Other monuments, including the Dome, see website for prices.

The Duomo, along with its architectural companions, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Campanile (bell tower), forms parts of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that encompasses the historic centre of Florence.

The cathedral was originally designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, with the first stone laid in 1296. Construction took over 140 years, culminating in the crowning glory of Filippo Brunelleschi’s dome in 1436, which is still the largest masonry dome ever built.

The cathedral’s extraordinary Gothic exterior, designed by Emilio De Fabris, is faced with striking panels of green, pink, and white marble, giving it an almost jewel-like glow in the changing light. Inside, the vast space is adorned with artworks, most notably the massive fresco of the Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari, with fills the interior of the dome.

Cappelle Medicee

📍Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6
🕰️ 8:15am – 6:50pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
🎟️ €9.00

Tucked behind San Lorenzo, the Cappelle Medicee are the final resting place of one of Florence’s most powerful families and consists of two distinct spaces: the Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy) and Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of Princes).

Designed by Michelangelo in the early 16th century, the Sagrestia Nouva was intended as a mausoleum for select members of the Medici dynasty. The space is absolutely elegant, with cool grey and white tones, and dominated by monumental tombs dedicated to Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. At the base of the tombs are Michelangelo’s four allegorical sculptures representing Times of Day – Dawn, Dusk, Day, and Night.

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze

📍Via Ricasoli 58/60, 50122 Firenze
🕰️ Tuesday – Sunday: 8:15am – 6:50pm (last admission 6:20pm). Not open on Mondays.
🎟️ Adults: €20.00. Children under 18: Free

Best known as the home to Michelangelo’s David, the Galleria dell’Accademia also houses an impressive collection of sculptures and paintings by Florentine artists, spanning from the Trecento to the Late Renaissance. Music lovers will enjoy the museum’s gallery of historic instruments, including pieces crafted by Stradivarius. Niccoló Amati, and Bartolomeo Cristofori, the inventor of the piano. Be prepared for crowds. Booking ahead is strongly advised.

Time for a Gelato Break – Vivoli

📍Via Dell’Isola delle Stinche, 7r
🕰️ 8am – 9pm

Founded in 1929, Vivoli has been serving up gelato made on-site with fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from across Tuscany. It’s not just about gelato either, they’re also well known for their affogato; a shot of hot espresso poured over creamy vanilla gelato.

Basilica of Santa Croce

📍Piazza Santa Croce 16, 50122
🕰️ Monday – Saturday: 9:30am – 5:30pm (last admission 5pm). Sunday & religious holidays: 12:30pm – 5:45pm
🎟️ Adults: €10:00. Children 12-17: €6.00; under 12: Free. €1 booking fee applies.

Santa Croce is the principal Franciscan church in Florence and, in fact, the largest Franciscan church in the world. Known for its striking architecture and profound cultural legacy, the basilica is home to It’s 16 chapels, many of which are adorned with frescos by Giotto di Bondone, the renowned Florentine painter and architect, and his pupils.

It also serves as the final resting place for some of Florence’s most legendary figures, including Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo. You’ll also find commemorative monuments to Florence Nightingale (who was born in the city) and Leonardo da Vinci.

Piazza della Signoria 

Named after the Palazzo della Signoria (now the Palazzo Vecchio), itself named after Florence’s former ruling body, Piazza della Signoria has long been the political and cultural heart of the city. It remain a central meeting point for both locals and tourists and serves as the gateway to the Uffizi Gallery.

The piazza feels like an open-air museum, framed by historically significant palaces such as the Palazzo Vecchio, Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Ugucciono, and Palazzo delle Assicuazioni Generali, and filled with iconic statues.

You will also find the Loggia dei Lanzi in the piazza; an elegant open-air sculpture gallery built between 1376 and 1382. Its wide Gothic arches were so admired by Michelangelo that he suggested continuing the same style around the rest of the piazza. Freely accessible to the public at all hours, the loggia is home a number of important sculptures, from classical Roman works to the Renaissance masterpieces.

Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

📍Via della Scala, 16 50123 Florence
🕰️ Daily 9:30am – 8:00pm

While it is no longer a pharmacy in the traditional sense, today the Officina is a world-renowned perfumery and herbalist shop, celebrated for its colognes, scented products, and artisanal skincare.

The origins of the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella date back to 1221, when Dominican friars arrived in Florence and established a convent. Alongside it, they cultivated a botanical garden, growing medicinal herbs used to prepare remedies, ointments, and balms for the convent’s infirmary. The pharmacy officially opened its doors to the public in 1612 and continues to welcome visitors today, staying true to many of the friars’ methods.

Mio Concept Store

As a lover of unique souvenirs, I visited the Mio Concept Store on Via della Spada 34R, a great little shop specialising in unique arts and crafts. There, I found the perfect keepsake; a limited edition print of the Duomo by Nicole Studio G’Art44. It’s now hanging on my ‘art wall’, beautifully framed in an antique-style gold.

Final Tips

• Bring a water bottle, but make sure it’s no larger than 0.5L if visiting museums
• Book major sites in advance, especially the Uffizi or Accademia
• FirenzeCard (€85) is worth considering if you’re planning 3+ days of museum-hopping
• Comfortable shoes are a must
• Early morning is magic – light, fewer tourists, and empty piazzas

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴