Two Days in Florence – Day 2: Saints, Sculptures, and Sweet Treats

My second, and only full, day in Florence came with a packed itinerary and high expectations. I’d been looking forward to everything I had planned, from Renaissance masterpieces to hidden gems and a scoop or two of gelato.

But the morning didn’t quite start as expected. I woke up feeling a little worse for wear, head fuzzy, appetite gone, and even the thought of coffee didn’t appeal – you know I’m ill when I refuse a coffee. Still, nothing that copious amounts of water couldn’t fix. I wasn’t about to let the lurgy ruin my one full day in one of my favourite cities.

So off I went, me and my water bottle, heading straight across the piazza to my first stop; that little church across the way… also known as the Duomo di Firenze.

If you’re visiting Florence for 3 days or more and want to visit as many museums and galleries as you possibly can, you might want to consider buying a FirenzeCard. For €85, the card gives you access to 60 museums in the Florence region for 3 days.

Duomo di Firenze

📍Piazza del Duomo
🕰️ Depends on monument. See website for more details
🎟️ Cathedral only: Free. Other monuments, including the Dome, see website for prices.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, more commonly known as the Duomo, is the heart of Florence both geographically and symbolically.

The cathedral was originally designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, with the first stone laid in 1296. Construction took over 140 years, culminating in the crowning glory of Filippo Brunelleschi’s dome in 1436, which is still the largest masonry dome ever built. A feat of engineering, it’s as iconic as it is awe-inspiring.

The cathedral’s extraordinary Gothic exterior, designed by Emilio De Fabris, is faced with striking panels of green, pink, and white marble, giving it an almost jewel-like glow in the changing light. Inside, the vast space is adorned with artworks, most notably the massive fresco of the Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari, with fills the interior of the dome.

The Duomo, along with its architectural companions, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Campanile (bell tower), forms parts of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that encompasses the historic centre of Florence.

Visiting the Duomo

Even though I was staying across the piazza from the Duomo and was able to make a quick dash across for opening time, there were already queues forming before the doors opened. Still, I happily joined the back of the line and was pleasantly surprised to find myself inside within 30 minutes.

I opted for the free entry, which gives access to the cathedral interior only. Since I’d already visited the dome and bell tower on a previous trip, and considering my sprained ankle, I wasn’t quite up for hundreds of steep steps this time around.

If you want to explore more of the complex, including: Brunelleschi’s dome, Giotto’s campanile, the Baptistery of San Giovanni, Santa Reparata (the crypt), and the Opera del Duomo Museum; you’ll need to purchase a ticket. Tickets start at €30 (Adult), with several pass options depending on what you would like to include.

Cappelle Medicee

📍Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6
🕰️ 8:15am – 6:50pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
🎟️ €9.00

If you want to experience a spectacular dome without the queues and the crowds, then the Cappelle Medicee should absolutely be on your ‘must visit’ list.

Tucked behind San Lorenzo, the Cappelle Medicee are the final resting place of one of Florence’s most powerful families and consists of two distinct spaces: the Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy) and Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of Princes).

Designed by Michelangelo in the early 16th century, the Sagrestia Nouva was intended as a mausoleum for select members of the Medici dynasty. The space is absolutely elegant, with cool grey and white tones, and dominated by monumental tombs dedicated to Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. At the base of the tombs are Michelangelo’s four allegorical sculptures representing Times of Day – Dawn, Dusk, Day, and Night.

In contrast, Cappella dei Principi is flamboyant, colourful, and unapologetic grand. Built to house the tombs of the Medici Grand Dukes, the chapel’s scale and splendour are overwhelming.

Design by Don Giovanni de’ Medici and executed by Matteo Nigetti, the space was completed in 1640, with lavish materials sourced from across Italy. The walls are inlaid with richly coloured marble and the floor with semi-precious stones, while the dome soars overhead adorned with biblical frescos painted by Pietro Benevenuti between 1828 and 1837.

I highly recommend a visit to the Cappelle Medicee. In fact, if your time in Florence is limited, I’d even go as far to say, skip the Duomo in favour of Cappelle Medicee. They’re quieter, more atmospheric, and offer a deeper glimpse into Florence’s history – without the crowds.

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze

📍Via Ricasoli 58/60, 50122 Firenze
🕰️ Tuesday – Sunday: 8:15am – 6:50pm (last admission 6:20pm). Not open on Mondays.
🎟️ Adults: €20.00. Children under 18: Free

With limited time in Florence, I had to pick just one gallery. It came down to a classic dilemma; Uffizi or Accademia?

I decided upon Accademia Gallery, thinking that viewing sculptures might be a refreshing change to the usual painting-heavy experience. Truth be told, I actually enjoy sculpture and ceramics more than I do paintings. So it felt like the right decision.

Well…I wish I hadn’t.

Since I missed out on pre-booking tickets online, I ended up in the notoriously long walk-up queue. I’d been chatting to an American couple, and after an hour of standing in the heat, the husband announced he was off to get a whiskey. He came back from the bar with plenty of time still to spare before we reached the entrance.

The day was sweltering, and I was beginning to feel worse; dehydrated, achey, and drained. I had checked the website beforehand and noted the rule, “Access is allowed for bottles of water not exceeding 0.5 litres“. I had an 750ml bottle which was half full, which I thought would be fine. The Americans had a full 1L and decided to try sneaking theirs in. We even checked with the staff member roaming the queue, who said it was fine. It was not fine.

Security told me the rule applied to the size of the bottle, not the amount of liquid inside. I pointed out how ridiculous that was, especially since others were walking in with larger bottles. But they weren’t budging. So, in a fit of rage, I threw my bottle in the bin.

Honestly, I should have just walked away. But I had been in that queue for so long and I did want to see the gallery. What I got was a crowded, chaotic experience, with people behaving badly. I found David (the sculpture), visited the toilets, tried to locate a water fountain, discovered a gallery of musical instruments (calm restored), and then left. I crossed the street and bought a fresh, larger, bottle of water from a nearby store.

I deeply regret spending my limited time in that queue. I should have gone to the Uffizi instead.

Oh, and the sculptures were okay.

Time for a Gelato Break – Vivoli

📍Via Dell’Isola delle Stinche, 7r
🕰️ 8am – 9pm

I wasn’t looking for Vivoli, Vivoli found me.

I stumbled across Florence’s oldest gelateria on my way to Santa Croce. It felt like a sign that it was time for a gelato break.

Founded in 1929, Vivoli has been serving up gelato made on-site with fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from across Tuscany. It’s not just about gelato either, they’re also well known for their affogato; a shot of hot espresso poured over creamy vanilla gelato.

The ordering process was a little unfamiliar at first. You choose what you want and pay at the till, then take your receipt to the counter to collect your gelato. It felt a bit strange at first, but after travelling around Italy, I got used to this system pretty quickly.

The was a multitude of flavours to choose from, but I eventually settle on three; nocciola (hazelnut), stracciatella (chocolate chip), and either bacio or plain chocolate – honestly, I can’t quite remember, but they were all delicious.

I took my gelato outside and found a spot on the curb opposite the shop, savouring every spoonful while watching people come and go from Vivoli.

With my belly full and satisfied with gelato, I continue to make my way to Santa Croce.

Basilica of Santa Croce

📍Piazza Santa Croce 16, 50122
🕰️ Monday – Saturday: 9:30am – 5:30pm (last admission 5pm). Sunday & religious holidays: 12:30pm – 5:45pm
🎟️ Adults: €10:00. Children 12-17: €6.00; under 12: Free. €1 booking fee applies.

Santa Croce is the principal Franciscan church in Florence and, in fact, the largest Franciscan church in the world. Known for its striking architecture and profound cultural legacy, the basilica is home to It’s 16 chapels, many of which are adorned with frescos by Giotto di Bondone, the renowned Florentine painter and architect, and his pupils.

It also serves as the final resting place for some of Florence’s most legendary figures, including Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo. You’ll also find commemorative monuments to Florence Nightingale (who was born in the city) and Leonardo da Vinci.

Inside, the artwork and stained-glass windows are truly breathtaking. There are over 4,000 pieces spanning from the 13th to the 20th century, each one contributing to the layered history that fill the space.

The chapel that stuck me most was the Chancel Chapel, with Agnolo Gaddi’s fresco cycle, Legend of the True Cross, surrounding a suspended 14th century crucifix. The composition, the colour, the reverence, completely captivated me.

The elegant neo-Gothic façade you see today isn’t original. The church originally had a plain brick exterior, which was replaced between 1857 to 1863 with the marble design we see now. The bell tower, built in 1842, also replaced an earlier version that had been destroyed by lightning.

Santa Croce was busier than the Cappelle Medicee, but nowhere were as crowded as the Duomo. Despite the visitors, it took my breath away. I could easily return again and again and still find something new to appreciate.

If I had to plan this day, over I would skip the Duomo interior entirely in favour of Santa Croce and Cappelle Medicee. These smaller, lesser-known churches hold such depth of history atmosphere, and hidden gems; things you often miss in the more tourist-heavy cathedrals. Sometimes, it’s in the quieter corners that Florence speaks the loudest.

Piazza della Signoria 

Named after the Palazzo della Signoria (now the Palazzo Vecchio), itself named after Florence’s former ruling body, Piazza della Signoria has long been the political and cultural heart of the city. It remain a central meeting point for both locals and tourists and serves as the gateway to the Uffizi Gallery.

The piazza is still Florence’s political hub of the city; Palazzo Vecchio continues to function as the city’s town hall, and the piazza is often the site of public demonstrations – there was actually a protest happening during my visit, thankfully a friendly one… I hope!

The piazza feels like an open-air museum, framed by historically significant palaces such as the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Ugucciono, and Palazzo delle Assicuazioni Generali, and filled with iconic statues.

The most famous palace is the imposing, fortress-like Palazzo Vecchio. Once known as the Palazzo Signoria, it stands as a symbol of Florence’s political power. In front of it is a replica of Michelangelo’s David, placed where the original once stood (the real one is in the Galleria dell’Accademia). The palazzo was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, and visitors can climb its 223 steps of Arnolfo’s Tower for spectacular views of the city.

Next to the Palazzo Vecchio is the Loggia dei Lanzi, an elegant open-air sculpture gallery built between 1376 and 1382. Its wide Gothic arches were so admired by Michelangelo that he suggested continuing the same style around the rest of the piazza. Freely accessible to the public at all hours, the loggia is home a number of important sculptures, from classical Roman works to the Renaissance masterpieces.

Also located in the piazza is the Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune). Commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1559 to mark the marriage of Francesco de’ Medici to Grand Duchess Joanna of Austria, it was designed by Baccio Bandinelli and executed by his student, Bartolomeo Ammannati.

Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

📍Via della Scala, 16 50123 Florence
🕰️ Daily 9:30am – 8:00pm

The origins of the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella date back to 1221, when Dominican friars arrived in Florence and established a convent. Alongside it, they cultivated a botanical garden, growing medicinal herbs used to prepare remedies, ointments, and balms for the convent’s infirmary. The pharmacy officially opened its doors to the public in 1612 and continues to welcome visitors today, staying true to many of the friars’ methods.

The establishment remained under the ownership of the Church of Santa Maria Novella until 1886, when it was sold to private owners.

While it is no longer a pharmacy in the traditional sense, today the Officina is a world-renowned perfumery and herbalist shop, celebrated for its colognes, scented products, and artisanal skincare. I have their Angeli di Firenze scented wax tablet hanging in my wardrobe, which I brought from their London boutique.

But visiting the original apothecary on Via della Scala is a different experience entirely. Even if you’re not planning buy anything, the historic sales rooms are worth a detour. They’re filled with luxurious perfumes, soaps, potpourri, and delicacies like biscuits, chocolate, tea, honey, and their iconic liqueurs, Alchermes and Liquore Mediceo. There is also a charming tea room and a museum on site.

Last-Minute Shopping & a Final Visit to Mercato Centrale

By 5pm, I was utterly exhausted and ready to sleep away the rest of the evening. But back at my Airbnb, I realised I hadn’t purchased a Florentine souvenir. So I dashed out to Mio Concept Store on Via della Spada 34R, a great little shop specialising in unique arts and crafts. There, I found the perfect keepsake; a limited edition print of the Duomo by Nicole Studio G’Art44. It’s now hanging on my ‘art wall’, beautifully framed in an antique-style gold. With purchase in hand I went back to the apartment for that nap.

About an hour later, I woke up with a banging headache, which I had started to think was due to the strong insect repellant I was using, but I also feeling quite hungry. After popping some paracetamol, I took myself off to Mercato Centrale for one last time. This time, I opted for a delicious classic Margherita pizza from La Pizza – Romualdo Rizzuti. If the stall isn’t there when you visit, Romualdo Rizzuti does have his own restaurant elsewhere in Florence.

Reflections

My time in Florence may have been short, but it was rich, immersive, and filled with contrasts; iconic landmarks and hidden chapels, bustling galleries and quiet corners, ancient pharmacies and modern pizza stalls. Even through heat, headaches, and hydration mishaps, the city wove its spell,as it always does.

Florence is layered with beauty, and not just the kind you see in galleries or cathedrals. It’s in the way afternoon light catches pink marble, the unexpected scoop of hazelnut gelato, the hush of a side chapel, or a print discovered in a tucked-away concept store.

If I’ve learnt anything from this trip, it’s that Florence rewards the wanderer. Don’t just head to the big tourist attractions, leave space for detours, delays, and the unplanned.

Florence is and will always be one of my favourite cities in the world.

Practical Tips

Timing Your Visit

• Florence is walkable but busy, expect crowds at major sights like the Duomo and Accademia. Get there early.
• Mondays are not great for museum-hopping (many close), so plan accordingly.
• Don’t try to pack in everything, two days is perfect for exploring at a gentle pace.

Booking Tickets

• Pre-book major sights (especially the Duomo, Accademia, and Uffizi) to avoid long queues.
• Consider the FirenzeCard (€85) if you’re staying longer or visiting multiple museums.
• Many churches (like Santa Croce) charge a small fee but are well worth it.

What to Bring

• A small water bottle (max 500ml for some museums and galleries), or just buy one after you’re through security.
• Comfortable shoes – Florence’s cobblestone + queues = sore feet.
• A scarf or light layer for churches (especially in summer)

Eating and Drinking

• Try at least one meal at Mercato Centrale – a food lover’s dream
• When you see a wine window… use it!
• Vivoli is iconic for a reason. Get the gelato, sit on the curb, enjoy.

Souvenirs

• Skip the trinkets. Seek out local artists, artisan shops, and unique finds (like Mio Concept Store).
• The Officina Profumo di Santa Maria Novella is a top-tier spot for luxurious and meaningful gifts.

Travel Notes

• Florence is a perfect 2-3 day stop on a longer Italy itinerary.
• Pair it with nearby destinations like Lucca, La Spezia/Cinque Terre, or Genoa – all accessible by train.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴