Two Days in Florence – Day 1: Sunset Strolls, Sourdough Pizza, and Santa Maria

Florence is one of my favourite cities in the world. I fell in love with the city when I first visited as a young wee thing on a 18-35 tour many years ago. I was excited to be visiting again. I just love the culture and the vibe of the city, it’s not intense like Rome, it’s more chilled and relaxed. I always felt like I could take my time to enjoy the city, no-one is around to rush me or try to push me in a direction I don’t want to take. It’s very lovely, beautiful, and friendly city.

Waking up, despite sleeping with my ankle elevated, it was painful to put any pressure on it. I found moving about the apartment helped warmed it up a little but it was a struggle to get to La Spezia Centrale with my big suitcase.

The train was late arriving into La Spezia, meaning tempers were frayed before we even boarded. I found myself stuck standing in the middle of a carriage with passengers in front of me trying to claim their reserved seats from interlopers and passengers behind me angrily trying to get past to find their seats. I was starting to feel overwhelmed so I did try to take control of the situation, putting my former theatre ushering skills into practice, looking at their tickets and directing them to their appropriate seats. Both parties were in the wrong, they had booked seats scattered around the carriage and were now trying to sit with their respective groups. Frustrated with the situation, I ended up barging past them with the help of the man behind me, whose wife had tried to unsuccessfully find me a seat after learning of my sprained ankle.

I finally reached my seat, grateful that I had booked a first class ticket. I curled up and rested to Pisa.

Arriving with seconds for my connection to Florence I was pleased that train was also delayed. However, I encountered the group of Australian girls that were involved in the seat dispute, who were now making harsh remarks about me. I hate to say that I let the comments get to me, and hung my head and quietly sobbed; it has been terrible stressful morning and hearing those comments just broke me. I was only trying to do my best by being helpful in a stressful situation. It wasn’t the first time another traveller had been mean towards me, in La Spezia, there was the American girl who loudly announced to her friends that she didn’t like what I was wearing. This trip was particularly bad for poor behaviour from other travellers towards others, which took me by surprise. Nasty comments about the locals, or who they thought were locals, naively thinking no-one else could speak English therefore they could get away with it. People say that it was because we all forgot how to act socially due to the pandemic, but there are plenty of people who didn’t lose the ability to be kind to others.

What followed next was an act of kindness. I’m unsure if he had witnessed what had happened on the platform or simply saw my tear stained face, but this American gentleman sat next to me and encouraged me to join the conversation that his group were having. I thanked him as he got up to leave at his stop. He was very interesting, having retired he brought land outside Lucca and was visiting the property with friends – if I remember correctly his son had moved to Italy therefore not only had he fallen in love with Lucca on a prior visit, he was also now closer to his grandchildren. Whatever his story actually was, it helped calmed me down and I arrived in Florence with the same level of anticipation I had when I had left the Airbnb in La Spezia.

Getting There

I travelled to Florence with Trenitalia, with a quick change in Pisa. The whole journey took just under two hours. Usually, if you book in advance, you can snap up some fantastic deals on Italian trains. But this time, I booked only two days ahead and somehow still scored a first class ticket for £21.

First class didn’t mean luxury on this occasion, but it did mean a comfortable solo seat with plenty of legroom, which (after all the chaos of boarding) felt like a blessing.

Where I Stayed

Luck was on my side when it came to finding a place to stay in Florence. I know the advice is; don’t book a brand-new Airbnb listing with no reviews for safety reasons. But someone has to be first, right?

The host had several other well-reviewed properties in Florence, so I felt reasonably confident. Because it was a new listing, the price was exceptionally low, £80 per night for an apartment directly opposite the Duomo. Here’s the link to the listing on the host’s website, it doesn’t seem to be available on Airbnb anymore, but the current price still looks quite fair for the location. That said, judging by more recent reviews, there appears to be some recurring issues with the apartment, so I’d only recommend it for a short stay of 1-2 nights.

I stayed for 2 nights and just needed somewhere to sleep. There was some noise from restaurants and bars in the piazza below, but I slept surprisingly well and I am not the world’s greatest sleeper. One quirky detail; the front door of the apartment was clear glass, with just a curtain for privacy. Not ideal, but it did the job.

The biggest downside was communication. Pre-arrival messages were automated, and my questions went unanswered. I had to send my arrival time three times with no response, and I wasn’t sure if I was even speaking to a real person. That said, once I was in the apartment and messaged about the hot water, someone replied right away. The Italian word for hot is ‘calda’ therefore C is the hot water tap! I felt such an idiot, but an Italian lesson learnt.

Day 1: Arrival, Wanders, and a Sunset by the Arno

My time in Florence began the moment I stepped off the train onto the platform. It was just after midday, and with check-in not until 3pm, I had a few hours to fill. I dropped my suitcase off at Locker in the City on via Luigi Alamanni and set off to explore the city.

Within minutes, I found myself in Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, gazing up at the basilica’s striped marble façade. I paused there for a while, taking it all in, and wondering what to do with my bonus few hours. What was there to see? What should I do first?

The answer was quite literally right in front of me…

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

📍Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 18, 50123
🕰️ Monday – Thursday & Saturday: 9am – 5:30pm. Friday & public holidays: 11am – 5:30pm. Sunday & Holy Days: 1pm – 5pm
🎟️ Adults: €7.50. Ages 11yrs – 18yrs: €5.00. Children under 11: Free

I found it surprisingly easy to lose myself in Basilica Santa Maria Novella. It was a weekday, and unlike the crowds swarming the Duomo, this beautiful church was quiet. It felt like I’d stumbled upon one of Florence’s best-kept secrets, right in the centre of the city.

Founded by Dominican monks in the 13th century, the basilica is a treasure trove of Renaissance art and architecture. The green-and-white marble façade, designed in part by Leon Battista Alberti, is a masterpiece in itself, with it precise geometric patterns and classical harmony.

The vast space is home to important works by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, and Filippino Lippi; each corner revealing another unexpected details or delicate fresco. One of the most striking is Masaccio’s Trinity, a revolutionary fresco for its time, using linear perspective to create an almost 3D effect long before the technique became standard.

There was an aura of calm in the air, as though the basilica itself encouraged slowness and reflection. I took my time to study the architecture and appreciate the artistry in quiet solitude.

Eventually, I found myself in the Grand Cloisters, the bell tower watching silently over me. There, I took some time to relax and reflect upon my visit. Before I knew it, it was 3pm and time to check-in to my Airbnb.

Mercato Centrale – The Pizza in Teglia

📍Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Via dell’Ariento, 50123
🕰️ Daily 9am – 11pm. Friday and Saturday until midnight.
🎟️ Free entry. Pay for food and drinks.

After settling into my apartment I went for a wander through Florence, no particular destination in mind, just letting the city guide me. Eventually, I found myself at Mercato Centrale, which quickly became my dinner go-to spot for my entire stay.

Housed in the historic San Lorenzo Market building, the structure dates back to the 1870s but was transformed in 2014 into a vibrant, modern food hub. The updated space now stretches across two floors, filled with 20 artisan food stalls, all celebrating Tuscan seasonal flavours. It’s the kind of place where you order what you fancy, grab a drink, and find a table; no reservations, no fuss. The informality suits me perfectly, which is why I went back the following evening.

I wandered the market for a while, taking in the smells and sights; cheese counters stacked high, fresh pasta being made, grills sizzling, pizzas being sliced, all under the buzz of shared tables and chatter. After a few laps, I settled on a slice from Raffaele d’Errico’s La Pizza in Teglia, known for its sourdough base and seasonal toppings.

I chose the mixed pepper pizza, which hit that perfect balance of sweet and smoky, To go with it, I grabbed a refreshing local craft beer and found a table at the very end so I could watch the market swirl around me.

Sunset over the Arno & the Bridges of Florence

After dinner, I continued to wander the streets of Florence, slowly making my way toward the Arno to catch the sunset. I crossed over Ponte Santa Trinita, which gave me the perfect vantage point of Ponte Vecchio lit up to my left, the sun dipping down behind Ponte all Carraia to my right.

I continued down Borgo San Jacopo, a street lined with luxury boutiques and restaurants, until I reached the Ponte Vecchio. Now knowing exactly where the sun was setting, I captured one final shot of Ponte Santa Trinita in the dusk light.

A Short History of Florence’s Bridges

The Ponte alla Carraia, to the west, stands on the site of Florence’s oldest bridge, originally built of wood in 1218. As with many medieval wooden structures, it didn’t last long. Over the centuries, it was rebuilt multiple times until the current version was constructed in 1948, after the German army destroyed the previous one during their retreat in World War II.

The Ponte Santa Trinita, where I watched the sunset, suffered a similar fate. First built in the 16th century (1569), it was also demolished in 1944 during the war. But in a remarkable act of reconstruction, it was rebuilt in 1958 using original stones from the Arno. Even the four statues representing the Four Seasons, which had been tossed into the river, were salvaged and returned to their places. The bridge can get crowded, but it offers arguably the best view of the Ponte Vecchio.

The star attraction is the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge in Florence to survive the destruction of WWII. This medieval bridge is iconic, not only for its charming arches but for the shops built directly onto it. Once homes to butchers, tanners, and farmers, the bridge underwent a transformation in 1565, when Duke Cosimo l de’ Medici ordered that only goldsmiths and jewellers could operate there, to enhance the bridge’s prestige. Today, it’s lined with sparkling displays, souvenir stalls, and art dealers, buzzing with tourists yet holding onto its centuries-old charm.

A Nighttime Walk Through Florence

I felt completely safe walking around Florence on my own at night. But in truth, I was never truly alone. It was a warm summer’s evening, and the streets were alive with people. Locals, tourists, couples, and families… solo travellers …all drifting through the city.

What stood out most was how peaceful it all felt. I wasn’t approached by anyone, not even the usual street vendors touting their wares. Everyone simply went about their evening, and I was free to go about mine.

I don’t have a specific route to recommend, just follow your instincts. Stick to the well-lit streets, avoid the quieter alleys, and be mindful of your surroundings. Sometimes, the best way to experience Florence is simply to let it guide you.

Reflections

My first day in Florence was a little bit of everything; stressful, healing, nostalgic, and quietly magical. Despite the difficult start, the city was just as I remembered, bring a sense of calm over me. I wandered, I recovered, I ate delicious pizza, I watched the sky turn gold over the Arno, and I walked home under the glow of streetlamps feeling both tired and content. This is what I love about Florence, its ability to hold space for beauty and imperfection in equal measure. And there was still another day to come.

Happy & safe travels

L x 🩴