Belize: Caye Caulker – Things that go Bump in the Night

Last Updated on 20th November 2022

Orange Walk to Caye Caulker – A Wet and Wild Ride

Just as I was getting use to my surroundings in Orange Walk it was time to leave. Orange Walk had exceeded my expectations, I left wishing I had planned stayed longer. Alas I had a meticulously planned itinerary I just had to stick to.

There was one obstacle in the way of my departure. The awesome staff at Hotel de la Fuente. They would simply not let me leave until I had a more than substantial breakfast. After filling my stomach with Belizean breakfast delights, I headed down the road to the bus station with a slice of freshly baked sweet banana bread in my hand, ready for my long dusty journey to Belize City to take a water taxi to my next destination, Caye Caulker.

An American couple I meet on the Lamanai tour advised against taking the Water Taxi because, in their opinion, it is cramped, stuffy, and you get wet. I decided to take the water taxi. 

While the Belize City Water Taxi Terminal is within walking distance from the bus station, a group of us from the bus decided that it was too hot and we were all too tired to even think about walking one single step out of the bus station therefore we pooled together to get a taxi. 

Arriving at the terminal and before I had the time to register where I was or where I should be, I suddenly discovered that my rucksack had been replaced with an orange baggage claim ticket. Looking up from my bewildered stare at the orange ticket in my sweaty hand, I caught a glimpse of my rucksack being loaded on a trolley bound for the Caye Caulker water taxi. My fellow travellers and I glanced at each other, sensing we all had the same experience, we silently agreed to head to the nearest cafe for lunch.

The water taxi journey was packed but not cramped. It was warm but not hot. The ride was choppy but not sea sick inducing. People did get wet but only because they had opened the window, letting the sea spray in. My only complaint was the uncomfortable seats, which made it a long 45 minute journey, however, it felt like pure luxury in comparison to the chicken buses.

Caye Caulker

A swarm of people descended upon the water taxi as soon as it docked at the port, selling the disembarking passengers hotel rooms and golf cart taxi services. While watching this spectacle, I got chatting to one of the water taxi staff who advised not to bother with these taxi services, most of the facilities on Caye Caulker were within walking distance of the port. Taking his advice, I leisurely strolled down the beach to my hotel.

Caye Caulker is neighbouring Ambergris Caye’s laid back bohemian sibling. It’s a cheaper alternative to the Ambergris Caye but it is catching up as more tourists chose Caulker over Ambergris. My first day there was spent exploring the island by foot on the sandy roads (which is easy given that the island is only 8km long and 1km wide)and relaxing by the Split with a good book and cold beer. 

Once I had finished exploring I relaxed with a couple of Belikin beers at I&I Reggae Bar, taking in the sunset views from their upstairs balcony. Sensing that, at 6pm, I was there too early to experience the bar in full swing, I headed to Habanero’s (now Hibisca) for dinner, with every intention to return to I&I.

The menu at Habanero’s/Hibisca was varied making the decision difficult, but also giving me the perfect excuse to return the following night. The West Indian coconut curry I decided upon was a delicious choice. Having secured a table on the veranda I decided to stay at Habanero’s after my meal to enjoy a few more beers while taking in the relaxed vibe and live music. Not feeling in the mood for I&I’s party atmosphere I retired to my hotel for the night.

Habanero’s would become my go to place during my stay. As would Dutch owned Amor y Café, where you could find me at one of their outdoor tables early in the morning, sipping a strong black coffee over breakfast before heading out for a day of snorkelling.

Caye Caulker felt safe enough to frequent bars on your own at night and I experienced nothing but the residents’ friendly hospitality. However, on my first night I was awoken to screams which had me scurrying back to my room before dark for most of my stay. 

The screams?  An American couple staying in the ‘penthouse suite’ had forgotten to lock their door, perhaps in a moment of being caught up in Caye Caulker’s carefree lifestyle and the feeling of security. The woman woke up at 3am to discover a burglar in their room. No one was hurt and nothing was stolen, as a matter of fact, they gained the burglar’s belongings he left behind when he ran scared from the room. Speaking to the Island residents the next morning, it turns out our burglar was known and they took great pains to make me aware that he wasn’t a resident of Caye Caulker. The next night all appeared good and safe in Caye Caulker so spent the evening planning my final night there. My peace was broken by blood curdling screams. Moments later there was a knock on my door from hotel staff. I wasn’t to worry, a water bottle had fallen on the floor of the American couple’s room.

Treetops – The Royston Vale of Central America

Treetops came highly recommended by various travel writers and scored highly on review sites. It was cheap and conveniently located. The selling point was the rooftop lounge area, which I could imagine myself lounging in a hammock reading a book with a cold drink in hand, overlooking the ocean. All in all it looked ideal. I booked a standard room with a sea view, which was within my budget.

The owner, Doris, initially appeared to be pleasant enough. She took an interest in my plans while on the Island, helpfully recommending tour companies and local restaurants. Then without any warning she suddenly turned on me!

I hadn’t arrived at the time she expected which put her out somewhat. I was confused; I had arrived within the advertised check-in times and had patiently waited while she dealt with another guest. It wasn’t like she was waiting for me to arrive. Satisfied she had firmly put me in my place, she escorted me to my room where she proceeded to read me the riot act. Don’t jump on the bed, don’t bring guests back, whatever it is you’re thinking of doing, don’t.

‘Any questions?’ she barked at me. I unwisely asked her for the wifi password and water for the room.

‘It’s for VIP guests only.’, Doris snootily replied.

‘But wifi is clearly listed as free with this room’, I quietly whimpered, regretting not taking her question as rhetorical.

‘Tsk! I will give to you this time but that goes against my policy. You can only have it until 7pm, I switch it off at 7pm. There is no water for your room. I don’t understand why your type think it’s okay to ask for it’, she barked.

My type!?!

After that terse exchange I daren’t question what happen to the sea view. Technically she was right, you could see the sea; if you jumped on the bed to peer out of the only window. There was no jumping on the bed, so no sea view.

That was me in the doghouse (along with her yappy dogs) for the rest of my stay. Her rules make it a lonely experience for the solo traveller. The lounge area was for certain guests only, despite being advertised being available for all guests. I daren’t go anywhere within the hotel grounds that was beyond my room for the fear of being pounced upon by Doris.

My stay at Treetops marred my visit at Caye Caulker and you tell by the photos I didn’t take. If I was staying longer I would have moved to another hotel. If I was being honest, I didn’t in the fear of a reprisal. Upon reading other reviews from unsatisfied guests, I made the right decision to stay as it would have highly unlikely that Doris would have refunded the rest of my stay.

Doris may have changed. She was liked by the Island residents but did have a reputation for being difficult. Plus she did go out of her way to apologise for the nightly screams. I see she is now reluctantly providing water refills due to pressure from the rest of the Island, but of course charges for this.

Next, swimming with the sharks.