Mexico: Tulum – Sunrises & Iguanas
Last Updated on 22nd December 2020
Arriving in the dead of the night, all I could see black and hear the crashing of the waves upon the shore, wherever the shore was. I rummaged around in my bags to find my head torch so I could see if what laid in front of my cabana. Was I right on the beach? Was the ocean lapping at my feet? With head torch in hand, all I could see was a nearby palm tree. Feeling slightly defeating by the darkness, I took to my bed, satisfied that if I could hear the ocean there must be an ocean… somewhere.
My hotel, Las Ranitas*, was toward the end of the Tulum hotel zone which stretches along the beach therefore quite a distance from the main town, which was the main reason for booking it. I wanted a relaxed few days on the beach, so I would be fresh for my big adventure. The cabana, while nice, initially appeared a bit shabby for the price and didn’t meet my expectation of a Mexican paradise. All was forgiven when I was woken the next morning by the beautiful sunrise shining through my window. I suddenly snapped out of my hazy-only-had-a-couple-of-hours-sleep state, to grab my camera to take hundreds of photos (not over exaggerating) as if this was the first time I had ever seen the sunrise. It was then that I realised my cabana was right on to the beach, overlooking the crystal clear Caribbean.
My plans for my first day in Tulum was to head to the Ruinas de Tulum. It seemed like it would an easy day, every single travel article and blog I had read said the ruins were only a walk away from the Tulum beach resorts. As I was setting off I stopped to chat to the receptionist and to give him my key for safe keeping. Upon hearing what my plans for the day were, he gave me a look which indicated he thought I was insane and promptly offered me use of one of the hotel bikes.
I initially declined, “I’ll walk, it’s fine, I like walking”.
“Take the bike, you’ll thank me later”, he persisted.
Taking his excellent advice I got on my bike (with no brakes) and set off for a long, up hill, but straight journey to Ruinas de Tulum.
I arrived to a peacefully quiet ruins. Wondering if it was opened, I strolled up to the ticket booth, only to be greeted by a bored looking staff member. My attempt to win her over by cheerfully delivering what little Spanish I knew was put to an end when I paid for my ticket with a 100 peso note, turning her boredom into irritation. As I was leaving the ticket booth a bus load of tourists appeared which I assumed would even make the irritably bored ticket assistant’s day even worse. I didn’t hang around to find out, and joined the mad rush of those few of others who arrived early at their own leisure to get to the entrance, hoping to make the most of the ruins before the gaggle of tourists descended upon them.
Iguanas! Hundreds of them everywhere; sitting by the ruins, underneath the ruins, on top of the ruins like little Gods. I overheard one tour guide telling a group of American tourists that the only reason there were so many iguanas was because the tourists fed them and they were becoming a nuisance (the iguanas that is). This information only prompted the group to dig around in their bag for food, perhaps only hearing “feed the iguanas”.
Time for a history lesson …
The Tulum ruins are the an archaeological site of a once flourishing walled Mayan city built on the limestone cliffs on the east coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. Interesting fact, Tulum is the Mayan word for fence or wall. It was once an important trading hub for a considerable period in Yucatán Mayan history, until the Spanish invaded resulting in the city’s slow 70 year decline. Upon entering the walls of the ruins you will be blown away by the sight of the magnificent structures of El Castillo, the Temple of the Frescoes and the Temple of the Descending God. All perfectly preserved and of course guarded by the little iguana gods!
What can I say about the ruins? They’re ancient, they were built by the Mayans and they’re still standing. I have a few more Mayan ruins to see on my trip so I will reserve judgement as to whether these are the best ruins. Do visit them, they are a sight to behold and I was in awe and felt privilege to have the chance to visit them. Deciding against joining a tour, I quickly discovered that it was easy to navigate around the site thanks to the English signs dotted around the site. Admittedly, there were times when I savvily position myself so I could overhear a tour guide; pretending I was taking a photo while looking thoroughly annoyed that the tour group were blocking my view. As I was leaving, about 10:00 – 10:30, the tourists were arriving en masse and the entrance site was now full of carts selling tacky souvenirs, turning the once serene ancient ruins into a Mayan Disneyland. I left feeling pleased with my amazing planning skills.
The bike ride back was quicker that the journey there, then again, it was downhill. Downhill with no brakes! I was glad to be back at the hotel for all I wanted to do was jump into the Caribbean sea. Returning to my cabana, I changed into my bikini, grabbed a good book and ordered an ice cold Corona for my beach lounger. The sea was so crystal blue and so surprisingly warm; I felt like a kid again jumping into the waves. My day ended relaxing on the hotel deck with a delicious meal and a few more ice cold Coronas. Later joined by off-duty staff including the chef who, upon discovering I was a vegetarian, cooked me a special meal each night of my stay. I had found my Mexican paradise.
Next, eco-madness at Sian Ka’an and the jet-lag kicks in.
* Las Ranitas has sadly closed.
