Copenhagen, Denmark
Last Updated on 17th December 2018
My Copenhagen trip was the most relaxing holiday I had in a long time. I don’t know why; I crammed a lot in during my time there. But arriving back to London I felt rested and energised.
I was on a tight budget for this trip. I saved on flights by redeeming the Avios points on my British Airways club card. Much happy squeals when I discovered I had enough points for a business class flight. Accommodation in Copenhagen is expensive, even booking via Airbnb can prove costly. It was a long search before I finally found a reasonably priced Airbnb apartment in Vesterbro. Airbnb is my go to for accommodation when I’m on a strict budget. Not only are you saving on accommodation, you can save on meals by cooking in your apartment.
Getting there was a breeze. My business class ticket afforded me the luxury of relaxing in the business lounge and superstar treatment on the flight. The train from the airport to Copenhagen Central Station was easy. The train station is located in terminal 3 and run every 10 minutes during the day, 1-3 times at night. Within less than an hour from arriving at the airport train station, I was in my Airbnb apartment in Vesterbro.
Arriving in the early afternoon, I had a quick shower and changed into something less glamorous then started my Bridge Copenhagen adventure.
Kanelsnegle (Cinnamon Rolls)
My mission, while in Copenhagen, was to try ALL the kanelsnegle. Kanelsnegle (cinnamon snail) is not your typical cinnamon roll, it is a delicious cinnamon buttery paradise.
Laura Bakery Laura Bakery is where I bit into my first kanelsnegle. I was immediately hooked! Where had this delicious pastry been all my life!?! I had the chocolate topped kanelsnegle which was yummy.
Meyers Bageri This was my favourite of all the kanelsnegles I tried. This was delicious, chocolate gooeiness, with perfect amounts of cinnamon and flakiness. I went overboard at Meyers, buying more sweet treats than planned. Their honningkage (honey cake) is also worth trying.
Emmerys This came second to Meyers. Again this was chocolate topped but was more flakier, however, I preferred the doughiness of the Meyers kanelsnegle
Lakagehuset This was my last kanelsnegle before heading to Malmo, and it didn’t disappoint. Topped with sugar glaze, it was flakier and sweeter than the others but it satisfied my need for one last bite of this delicious pastry.
DAY 1
Getting tipsy in a museum and dancing with Danes.
If Carlsberg Did Museums
Actually they do and it’s (was) awesome! Included in the ticket price is 1 beer (250ml) or soft drink which you can redeem at the end of the self guided tour. When I visited the museum in 2016, it was 2 beer (pints) vouchers with the ticket; one to redeem at the start so you could roam around the museum with a pint in hand, and the other for the bar at the end.
The self-guided tour snakes through the historic brewery where you can learn about the history of Carlsberg. You’ll soon learnt that all those swastikas on the elephants and historic bottles are in reference to the Indo-European symbol which was used widely in the Western world in the early 20th century as a symbol for luck. Carlsberg discontinued the logo in the 1930s due to the swastika’s association with the Nazi party.
The tour ended in the Jacobsen Brewhouse & Bar. I spent a bit too long in the bar but in my defence, Jacobsen craft beer is so darn deliciously good. My only wish is that they export it to the UK!
The museum closes in 2019 for refurbishment.
Rock out at VEGA
Copenhagen is where I fell in love with John Grant (the musician, not some random bloke). I came across the John Grant gig at VEGA while searching for something to do on my first night in Copenhagen. Much to my delight the venue was around the corner from my Airbnb apartment. I booked my ticket not fully aware of his material and at the end of the night was a huge fan. However, this is not a blog on my love for Mr Grant.
VEGA is a great venue to see a gig or attend a club night. The building itself is of architectural interest and the interior of the main hall is absolutely stunning.
DAY 2
Running up hills, dining like a Dane, choppy waters and loads of walking!
Wander (Run) Around Frederiksberg Have
One of the benefits of staying in Vesterbro was the nearby Frederiksberg Have. Every morning I would run up Vesterbrogade, around the Have, then back down Vesterbrogade. My reward for running and down the Have’s many hills was all the beautiful sights.
The Have’s winding paths take you lead you on a journey through the romantic gardens, taking you to canals, lakes, waterfalls and stunning buildings dating back to the 18th century. You can also view Copenhagen Zoo’s elephant enclosure from within the park!
The Lakes
After my morning run, I would grab my guide books and camera, then walk to the city centre, grabbing a coffee from one of Vesterbro’s trendy cafes along the way. I love walking. Not only does it help clear my mind, I’m always discovering something new. Why travel to a new city and travel everywhere on the underground transport system when you could be exploring the sights beyond the tourist trail?
On my first day in Copenhagen I decided to walk to Torvehallerne KBN food market. With coffee in hand, I made my way to the market via a leisurely stroll along the banks of The Lakes.
A stroll along the lakes gives you some of the best views of city centre and Nørrebro. Taking in the sights I made my way to Dronning Louises Bro which would take me across the Penlinge Sø to my next destination.
Sample Smørrebrød at Torvehallerne KBH
You can’t leave Copenhagen without sampling the Danish delicacy of smørrebrød. You also can’t leave Copenhagen without paying a visit to Torvehallerne KBN.
Torvehallerne is a foodie’s heaven. This twin hall food market hosts 60 stalls selling fresh produce, tasty cheeses, exotic spices, and craft beer. There are also plenty of food stalls where you can buy breakfast, lunch or stop by for fika. I was overwhelmed by the choice on offer but I had one mission and that was to try authentic Danish smørrebrød.
Smørrebrød is an open top sandwich adorned with a combination of toppings on top of a slice of rye bread. I brought lunch from Haller’s Smørrebrød, which serves delicious smørrebrød made from fresh produce from the market. There wasn’t that many vegetarian options on offer but the potatoes with mayonnaise and fried onions smørrebrød I had was delicious.
After lunch it was time to get some energy for the rest of the day in the form of a kanelsnegle from Laura Bakery and a coffee from the Coffee Collective.
Be at One With Nature (and History) at Botanisk Have and Kongens Have
After lunch I decided to burn off lunch by exploring the parks and gardens which surround Rosenborg Slot, which is only a block away from Torvehallerne.
I was tight on time and budget so decided not visit Rosenborg Slot, nor the Palm House and many museums located nearby. I had a lot to squeeze in during my short stay so I was content with wandering around the beautiful gardens
Immerse Yourself in Colour at Nyhavn
While writing this post, I’ve realised I did a lot of walking around Copenhagen. My next stop was no different, after leaving Kongens Have I walked 15 minutes to the colourful old harbour of Nyhavn (Danish for new harbour). The first thing I did when I reached Nyhavn was to book a canal tour, I then explored the surrounding area while I waited for the time slot of my tour.
Nyhavn was one of my favourite areas of Copenhagen with its colourful buildings and vibrant nightlife. It’s a joy to wander around the colourful old harbour buildings. But be warned, it is very much a tourist trap and prices are quite expensive in the restaurants and bars that line the harbour.
Canal and Harbour Tour
My advice is to book this in advance as spaces can fill up quite quickly. I purchased my ticket 30 minutes prior to my time slot and I was lucky to get one of the few remaining spaces. Netto-Bådene are the best and cheapest tour company to book with. You can find their booking office at Nyhavn.
This 60 minute boat tour is the best way to see Copenhagen. There are stunning views along the harbour and there is also an opportunity to see the Little Mermaid crowd-free. After such a beautiful sunny winter’s day, the weather turned for the worse. Now with rain and high winds, the water was rather choppy. But it was fine! Netto use glass-roofed heated boats during the winter months so we were protected from the elements.
I finished my day by wandering around the shops and then grabbed dinner from the local supermarket, returning to my apartment to plan the next day. While I am happy travelling alone, I’ve honestly not yet found the courage to go to bars or restaurants on my own, especially at night, unless its the hotel restaurant or a chain.
DAY 3
Towers and Christmas lights
Climb the Rundetårn
Originally an astronomical observatory for famous Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe (still is a fully functioning observatory), this 17th-century tower has spectacular views over Copenhagen. There is an entrance fee but a visit to the Rundetårn is worth every kroner.
Delightfully, the climb to the top of 36 metre-high Rundetårn involves walking up a cobbled spiral ramp (there are no lifts). It’s not completely stair free, there is a small winding staircase to the viewing platform. While the ramp makes it a slightly easier climb than stairs it is still taxing at times. Midway up the ramp you can stop by the old Library, which is now an art gallery, to view the current exhibition. You can also rest on the tower’s original non-functioning privy, which may have been used by Hans Christian Andersen.
Explore the Latin Quarter
The Latin Quarter gets its name from the old campus of the university where Latin was widely spoken. Stretching from Vor Frue Plads through to Rundetårn, then north to Nørre Voldgade, the Latin Quarter’s streets are dotted with postcard worthy buildings and hidden delights.
Explore the Latin Quarter at your leisure making sure you arrive at the picturesque Gråbrødretorv for lunch and people watching at one of the cafés that line the square.
Take a Free Trip up the Christiansborg Palace Tower
Christiansborg Palace is stunningly beautiful but expensive to visit. You can take a sneaky peak in some of the buildings, but you must buy a ticket to explore further. However, entrance to the tower is completely free. At 106 metres, its Copenhagen’s tallest tour and gives you wonderful views of the city. On a clear day you can see Malmo, Sweden and The Bridge.
Christmas at Tivoli Gardens
I have a confession, I didn’t like the Tivoli Gardens; I preferred the other Christmas markets. I know that makes me a soulless creature but I found it to be expensive for what it was and there seemed to be no atmosphere. The park was dead and most of the rides appeared to be closing early (perhaps due to the lack of crowd), which I found to be odd.
But I made the most of my time there. The Christmas lights were beautiful and I did spend a lot of money at the Christmas market. I purposely timed my visit for the Christmas Illuminations, which were worthwhile. Sorry, I wish I could gush about Tivoli. The Gardens did come highly recommended by friends who had visited during the summer.
ONE FINAL MORNING OF EXPLORING
Christiania
There was one last thing I wanted to do before I travelled to Sweden and that was visit Christiania.
Located in Christianshavn, Freetown Christiania is a self-governed commune which is home to nearly 1000 residents. The land on which it sits was once occupied by military barracks, which have been transformed by the residents into restaurants, bars, art galleries, workshops, performance venues and shops selling a variety of goods.
I felt safe walking alone in Christiania and area had a good vibe to it, though a bit too touristy for my liking (a tourist coach pulled up just as I was leaving). The hash stalls along Pusher Street (an area where majiuana is sold) were demolished in late 2016 due to an incident, but there are a few drug dealers still doing business along the street. They’ve relaxed the ‘no photos’ rule but use your common sense by not taking photos of drug deals.
After my brief visit to Christiania, I hurried back to the apartment to collect my bags so I could continue my journey across The Bridge to Malmo.
Where Did I Stay?
After a very long search on Airbnb, I found the perfect apartment in Vesterbro. Vesterbro has gone through some gentrification over the years making it one of Copenhagen’s hippest areas. It’s littered with hip cafes, bars and boutique shops. Staying Vesterbro means you are within walking distance to most of the city’s attractions, including the nearby Carlsberg Museum and the beautiful Frederiksberg Have.
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