Photo Diary: Holy Island
Last Updated on 22nd December 2020
While planning my UK ‘road’ trip, I came across this absolutely stunning photo of an island during sunset.
“I have to visit this island!” I exclaimed.
That island was the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, a tiny island off the Northumberland coast.
The Holy Island is linked to the Northumberland coast by a causeway, which is cut-off twice a day by the tides of the North Sea. Which, in my opinion, adds to the excitement of visiting this island. Will you get stranded or not!?! The island has been an important centre of Celtic Christianity (hence the name) since the 6th century.
I made way to Berwick-upon-Tweed from Scarborough, spending two nights there while I spent my time on the Holy Island as a day trip. There is a regular bus service that runs from Berwick train station to the island.
Before You Skip Town, Explore Berwick
Berwick-upon-Tweed, England’s most northern town, was the inspiration behind some of artist L S Lowry’s finest works, for a reason. There are beautiful sandy beaches and gorgeous green riverside walks. You can follow Lowry’s steps by walking the 6 mile Lowry Trail. If you haven’t the time to walk the Lowry Trail, you can walk along the Elizabethan Walls which surround the town. The Walls were built in 1558 to keep the Scots out (or the English in).
You also have the 18th century Berwick Barracks designed by Nicholas Hawsmoor, which houses not one but two museums; The King’s Own Scottish Borderers museum and the Berwick Museum and Art Gallery.
You’ve Arrived at the Holy Island, So What Now?
If you took the bus to the Holy Island, it will drop you off at Green Lane. From there you can walk to Lindisfarne Castle (15 mins) or the Priory (5 mins).
Because I am who I am, I went in the opposite direction of the crowds and headed towards the Priory.
The original monastery of Lindisfarne was founded by St Aidan in 634. After repeatedly being invaded by the Vikings, the monks who founded Lindisfarne abandoned the island in 875.
The priory ruins you see standing today were built by Benedictine monks, who arrived on the island during the 12th century, on the site of St Aidan’s original wooden church.
Next to the priory you will find St Mary’s church which is the oldest standing building (with a roof) on the Holy Island. The fabric of this church still incorporates some Saxon masonry.
After exploring the Priory and St Mary’s, I roamed along the coast making my way to Lindisfarne Castle.
Walking along the coast you will discover an abundance of historic and scenic delights.
Perhaps explore the rocky ‘beaches’. You never know what you may find washed up on shore. You may also be able to walk to St Cuthbert’s Island which is joined to Holy Island at low tide.
This very small island was home to Cuthbert (former abbot of the Priory) where he attempted to live as a hermit before realising the island’s close proximity to Lindisfarne.
The wooden cross on the island is placed there every year as part of he annual Good Friday Northern Cross pilgrimage to Lindisfarne. Christian pilgrims walk from various places in Northern England and Scotland carrying large heaving wooden crosses on their backs.
Also visible from the shoreline are the Law Beacons. These obelisks were built in the 1820s as leading marks into Holy Harbour, replacing the old wooden beacons that were formerly there.
As I explored my way up the coast I realised that in front of me was a glorious, but distant, view of the Castle up top its rocky outcrop. As I approached I noticed that the crowd that had flocked to the castle were now making their way to the Priory. That’s me, winning at life and travel!!
Lindisfarne Castle was originally built in the 16th century, then latterly remodelled by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1901 to become the holiday home of Edward Hudson, a publishing magnate.
To view this eclectic mix of 16th and 20th century design, you can explore the castle for less than £10 entrance fee.
Near to the castle are the 19th-century limestone kilns and the former gardens of the castle design by renown garden designer Gertrude Jekyll for Hudson.
After my visit to the castle I headed back to town for lunch and a pint at the Crown and Anchor. Then headed back to the seaside to relax while waiting for the bus to take me back to Berwick.
Beyond the Ruins and Castle
Modern day Holy Island has more to offer visitors than ruins and the castle.
There are two pubs on the island, Crown & Anchor and the Ship Inn. I can vouch from personal experience that the Crown & Anchor does a good pint and food. If you are a gin enthusiast, the Ship Inn distills its own gin.
You also have the island’s meadery, St Aidan’s Winery, where you can partake in free tastings. Mead making on the island dates back to the monks who were resident on the island during the 1200s.
If you like your drink hot and caffeinated, look no further than Pilgrims Coffee, who roast their coffee beans on the island.
Getting There
Borders Buses run regular services from Berwick-upon-Tweed from Monday – Saturday; the timetable is based on the safe tide times. It is advisable that you do check the running of the bus service closer to the date of your trip, as the tidal patterns are irregular plus the service can be sporadic during the winter months.
If you are driving there, be sure to check the safe crossing times.
Where to Stay
I stayed two nights at Berwick-Upon-Tweed and day tripped from there to the Holy Island. I won’t recommend the B&B I stayed in because I didn’t enjoy my stay. It was a nice enough B&B but the owner was overbearing, tried to convince me to change my travel plans and wouldn’t let up. Said the Holy Island wasn’t worth it, he was absolutely wrong. While I admired his passion for his home town (I’m fiercely passionate about NZ and South London), there are better ways to convince visitors to explore the town. Check the Visit Berwick site for accommodation ideas.
The one thing I took from my trip to the Holy Island was a new bucket list item to stay overnight on the Holy Island so I could experience the tidal cut-off plus see the beautiful sunset which drew me to the island. There are many accommodation options on the island; B&B, holiday rentals, and hotels.
Happy travels!
L x
