Trælanípa’s Floating Lake & Múlafossur’s Windy Waterfall: A Wild Day on Vágar

Don’t tell the other guides, but Jóhan’s brother (whose name I’ve completely forgotten, I’m going to call him Jónas because I’m almost certain that was it) was my favourite guide on the entire trip. As a mountain rescue worker, Jónas was perfect the perfect hiking companion, if anything went wrong, help was quite literally right there with us.

Important Information Before You Go

• Entrance Fee: A fee of 200 DKK per adult and 100 DKK per child is required to access the trail, payable on-site. While a guide isn’t necessary, you can book one for 450 DKK per person. If opting for a guided hike, it’s best to book in advance – contact details are available on the Trælanípan website.
• Closures: The trail may due to extreme weather conditions, or during hare hunting and lambing seasons, so it’s with checking ahead. 
• Facilities: At the trailhead, you’ll find a small hut selling hot drinks, sweets, and traditional Faroese food. Toilets are also available.
• Hike Difficulty: The hike is relatively easy, taking around 45 minutes one way, making it suitable for all fitness levels, It’s also conveniently located just a five-minute drive from Vágar Airport.

For the latest updates on weather-related closures and seasonal restriction, the hiking pages on Visit Faroe Islands or tralanipan.fo.

Drenched in Adventure: Hiking to Trælanípa and the Floating Lake

Starting at Miðvágur, Jónas equipped us with sturdy hiking poles and took care of our hiking fees at the hut. We, and by “we”, I mean myself and a lovely solo traveller from America, were warned that start of the trail might be tricky. But honestly? It wasn’t bad at all – just a little uneven.

As we made our way up the trail, Jónas shared stories from his time in Mountain Rescue and told us about the Faroe Islands’ Closed for Maintenance scheme. Every April, the islands close for a weekend to carry out maintenance on popular tourist sites, inviting volunteers from around the world to help. A news article about this initiative was what first put the Faroe Island on my radar, and one day, I’d love to take part.

The day was drizzly and grey, which didn’t ruin the hike, but it did dull the views. I imagine on a clear, sunny day, or even one of those dramatic stormy days I love, the scenery would have been breathtaking. It didn’t take long for Lake Leitisvatn to come into view, though with the mist and the increasing heavy rain, seeing beyond our noses was a challenge, let alone the famous floating lake illusion.

We ‘climbed up’ (more of a stroll) Trælanípan, which on a good day offers panoramic views and the perfect vantage point to see the optimal illusion. Alas, the water levels were low, and the weather was far from great. Trælanípan, also known as Slave Cliff, has a dark past, during the Viking Age, slaves were pushed off the edge once they were deemed no longer useful. How pleasant! With the water levels down, Bøsdalafossur Waterfall was little more than a trickle compared to the usual Faroese spectacle. But, hey, that’s the unpredictable Faroese weather. Even with the underwhelming conditions, just being in this incredible landscape was enough.

I have to be honest, it was a bit disappointing. But I still enjoyed the hike, and Jònas turned what could have been a dreary day into one of fun. I even found myself scrambling over rocks to get closer to the lake, my fear of falling forgotten, until I actually did slip, banging my knee hard against the rock. But I picked myself up quickly, the pain soon drowned out by the rain.

The hike back turned into a soggy game of are we there yet? as the downpour intensified. My waterproofs, which had served me well on many UK hikes, were no match for Faroese rain, and my hiking companion was having the same problem. By the time we reached the car, we were soaked through, dreaming of a warm fire and a hot chocolate.

After drying off as best we could, we continued our day with a tour of Vágar, stopping off to see the famous Múlafossur Waterfall.

Battling the Elements: A Rain-Soaked Visit to Bøur & Múlafossur

On our way to the waterfall, we made a fleeting stop in Bøur, a small village known for its turf-roofed houses and stunning views of Tindhólmur and the sea arch Drangarnir. Unfortunately, on our visit we could only make out their silhouettes through the rain and mist.

I hate to sound negative, but this day was absolutely miserable. By the time we arrived at Múlafossur Waterfall, our little group was well and truly done, not with the sights, but the relentless weather. All I wanted was to get back to the hotel, take a long, hot shower, and curl up in bed with a cup of something warm to drink.

Jónas, however, wasn’t about to let us give up just yet. He rallied us to pose for photos in front of of the waterfall. And to be fair, the view, Múlafossur cascading into the ocean with the tiny settlement of Gásadalur in the background, was breathtaking. But between the icy wind, the torrential rain, and the sheer force of the gusts blowing the waterfall sideways, we snapped our photos as quickly as possible before dashing back to the car.

Looking back, I remember feeling good, even optimistic, about the second day of our tour with Jónas. But when I see my photos and videos from that day, I swear I can still feel the cold creeping in all over again.

Not every adventure is perfect, and not every hike ends with the breathtaking views you hoped for. But that’s the magic of travel, you take what the day gives you, soak in the experience (sometimes literally), and walk away with a story to tell.

Happy & safe travels!

L x👣