Wild Winds and Stunning Cliffs: A Day on Suðuroy

Claus, as I would later learn, is the father of the owner of Guide to Faroe Islands. It was just the two of us of the day – a private tour that felt both exciting and daunting, given the worsening weather.

Setting Sail for Suðuroy

Despite feeling slightly under the weather, I couldn’t bring myself to cancel. The idea of visiting Suðuroy, the “South Island” of the Faroe Island, held a a special appeal for me as someone of the South Island of New Zealand. The promise of rugged landscapes, towering cliffs, and the inspiration of countless writers filled me with anticipation. I’d hoped to explore the island’s famous hiking trails, but the stormy conditions meant hiking was out of the question.

The journey to Suðuroy began with a short drive to the harbour, just minutes from the hotel, to board the M/F Smyril ferry. The two-hour crossing was rough, with heavy rain lashing the window, obscuring the views Claus tried to point out – like the tiny island of Lítla Dímun. Still, his commentary kept me entertained.

When we arrived at Krambatangi ferry port, the weather had worsened. It was clear the day would be more about embracing the elements than escaping them. A small part of me worried we might even get stranded on the island.

A Cosy Stop in Tvøroyri

Before embarking on our island adventure, Claus suggested a stop at Glasstovan, a charming café in Tvøroyri. The warmth of the café was a welcome relief from the relentless wind and rain outside. I ordered a vegetarian burger, which turned out to be absolutely delicious, while Claus insisted I try a Faroese beer – a suggestion I couldn’t resist.

I was captivated by the wall of unusual teas from Østerlandsk 1889 Copenhagen, each housed in beautiful, decorative containers. While I’m not much of a tea drinker, I do wish I’d purchased one as a 

The weather proved to be the perfect companion for my journey around Suðuroy, amplifying the island’s already dramatic landscape.

Exploring the Rugged South

From Quiet Shores to Basalt Wonders: Sandvík and Norðbergseiði

Our first stop was Sandvik, where Claus did his best to coax me out of the car to take photos. But with the weather teetering on the edge of chaos and the views not quite capturing my imagination, I opted to stay put. Sandvik may be beautiful on a brighter day, but it wasn’t calling to me this time.

Next, we ventured to Norðbergseiði, and this time I couldn’t get out the car fast enough. Before me lay the striking, raw beauty I had been hoping for. Towering columnar basalt formations loomed dramatically, along the western coastline, a testament to the island’s volcanic origins. Norðbergseiði, a former harbour just outside Hvalba, was everything I imagined Suðuroy to be.

Claus led me to a natural hole in the cliff, offering a vertiginous view of the roaring ocean below. As the waves crashed and thundered, Claus shared the tale of why the hole had been fenced off – apparent, a tourist had fallen in (whether or not that was true). With that unsettling thought lingering, I quickly snapped a photo, not keen on becoming the hole’s next cautionary tale. I hastened back to the warmth and safety of the Tesla, eager to continue by adventure across Suðuroy’s wild and windswept terrain.

A Glimpse into Vágseiði’s Past

Our next stop was Vágseiði, a site steeped in history and natural beauty. The name itself reflects its maritime past, with eiði meaning harbour in Faroese. Claus shared the story of Kleivin, the once-thriving natural harbour that served as a lifeline for the local fishermen before it was tragically destroyed by a hurricane. Today, the harbour’s legacy is honoured by a striking statue created by Hans í Líðini, a poignant tribute to the lives and labour of those who relied on the sea.

Although the weather ruled out hiking, I stood in awe of the towering Skuvanes cliff, a dramatic reminder of nature’s power and beauty.

As we continued our journey, Claus painted vivid pictures of life in the Faroe Islands before the advent of modern infrastructure. He recounted tales of isolation before the construction of the tunnels that now run under the mountains and seas. One such tunnel, connecting Hvalba to Trongisvagur, wasn’t completed until 1961. Before that, locals had to traverse the mountain paths on foot. It’s hard to imagine the resilience it must have taken to endure such isolation, relying so heavily on the land and sea for survival.

Beinisvørð: Majestic Cliffs and a Touch of Tesla Terror

Instead of taking the Sumba road tunnel, Claus opted for the old mountain road, to give me the opportunity to see Beinisvørð, Suðuroy’s tallest sea cliff. Standing at an impressive 470 metres, this towering marvel can be seen from nearly anywhere on the island. The drive itself turned into an adventure when Claus decided to demonstrate his Tesla’s autopilot feature, casually taking his hands off the steering wheel. While Claus seemed thoroughly thrilled, I was gripping my seat in sheer panic.

Beinisvørð turned out to be my favourite stop on Suðuroy. We lingered here longer than anywhere else, captivated by its serene yet powerful beauty, even with the stormy weather raging around us. The cliff rises majestically from the ocean, a testament to the raw, untamed spirit of the Faroe Islands.

I would only dream of hiking the surrounding trails, but simply standing there, taking in the view was unforgettable. Beinisvørð has inspired many over the years, including notable Faroese poets who have immortalised its grandeur in their works. It’s a place that feels alive with both history and natural wonder.

A Windswept Farewell: Akraberg Lighthouse and Beyond

Akraberg lighthouse has stood steadfastly at the southernmost tip of Suðuroy since 1909, braving the elements as a beacon for mariners. On this particular day, it because a test of my bravery too.

Claus, ever the spirited guide, encouraged me to venture up to the lighthouse despite the howling winds. “But I will be blown away!!” I protested! Undeterred, I inched my way along with path, clutching the fence for dear life. Reaching the lighthouse felt like a victory, even if I spent most of my time clinging to its sturdy walls. The dramatic views were worth the ordeal, but relief washed over me when Claus announced it was time to return to the car.

We made our way back to Tvøroyri, pausing for comforting hot chocolate in one of the charming villages along the way. Our final stop was SALT, an arts centre housed in a former salt silo. I found the space very impressive and, as someone working in the performing arts, I was intrigued by how they might use the versatile black-box space for their events. I would have loved to see a performance to experience how they bring it to life. As rehearsals for the evening’s performance were underway, Claus and I left quietly, ready to catch the ferry back to Tórshavn.

Reflecting on my day as we sailed back, I felt both exhilarated and exhausted. Suðuroy had delivered drama, beauty, and a taste of Faroese life that would stay with me long after I left its shores.

Practical Tips for Visiting Suðuroy

• Getting There: The M/F Smyril ferry operates between Tórshavn and Suðuroy. It’s a scenic two-hour journey, but be prepare for rough seas, especially in stormy weather. Arrive early to secure a good spot by the windows, and grab a coffee from the onboard café to make the trip more enjoyable.
• Weather Preparedness: Suðuroy’s weather is unpredictable and often intense. Dress warmly, wear waterproof, and bring sturdy shoes. The winds can be fierce, so avoid lightweight hats or scarves that could blow away.
• Hiring a Guide: A knowledgeable guide like Claus can make all the difference in navigating Suðuroy’s hidden gems. Guides often have access to stories and location that might be missed otherwise. Book in advance to ensure availability, especially during peak travel periods.
• Transportation: Exploring Suðuroy is easiest by car. The tunnels connecting the villages are fascinating in their own right and make travel much easier than it would have been in the past.
• Prepare for Limited Time Outdoors: While hiking is one of Suðuroy’s main attractions, bad weather can derail plans. Flexibility is key – embrace the rugged landscapes from the warmth of a car if needed!
• Enjoy the Journey: Sometimes, the journey is just as memorable as the destination. Whether it’s learning about local history, seeing cliffs that have inspired poets, or simply being awestruck by nature, Suðuroy offers experiences that will stay with you.

Happy & safe travels!

L x👣