Puffin Paradise: My Day on Mykines

Mykines, home to the largest puffin population in the Faroes, is a dream destination. With just 40 houses and only 15 permanent residents, it’s a tiny slice of paradise, particularly in the summer months when the islands comes alive with visitors. During the winter, however, the island becomes completed isolated as there’s no transport to or from it.

In addition to its puffin colonies, Mykines is also famous for the Mykineshólmur lighthouse, connected to the island by a footbridge. Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon for the path to the lighthouse to be closed due to nesting season or safety risks. During my visit in 2023, the path was closed because of a landslide, and it remains inaccessible even now.

Important Information Before You Go

As Mykines is a protected area, there are several measures in place to preserve its natural environment and protect its wildlife. Here’s what you need to know before planning your trip – visit Visit Vagar for more information:

• Guided Tours Are Mandatory: To hike the trails on Mykines, you must book a tour with an approved Faroese guide. For more information and to book visit hiking.fo. You can also book tours through a Faroese travel agency with a certified Faroese guide. My visit came as part of the tour I book though Guide to Faroe Islands; they also have a day trips to Mykines.
• Visitor Limits: The number of visitors is capped to 200 per day, and access to the outfields is only permitted between 10:00 and 17:00.
• Lighthouse Path Closures: The path to Mykineshólmur lighthouse is closed during the summer months to protect the puffins during their nesting season. Landslides also pose a significant risk in this area.
• Incredible Puffin Encounters: Despite the lighthouse path closure, there are still breathtaking views from á Rógvu. When I visited, puffins hopped right up to us!

Getting There

My day started at 9:00 with a hotel pick-up by our tour guide, Bartal. After collecting an American couple on their delayed honeymoon, we made our way to Sørvágur harbour for the 10:45 ferry. If you’re travelling independently, there’s a bus from Tórshavn that connects with the ferry at Sørvágur. For detailed information about reaching Mykines, visit mykines.fo.

Our tickets were pre-booked by the tour operator, as all tickets must be secured in advance, they cannot be purchased at the ferry terminal. While there is a helicopter between Vágar to Mykines, it’s highly discouraged for tourists to use this option. The helicopter is primarily for local residents and freight, and relying on it could disrupt essential services.

The harbour was bustling with people eager to board the ferry, but thanks to Bartal’s connection with the crew, our small group was granted priority boarding and secured a prime spot for sightseeing. Despite the stunning scenery, the ferry ride was an endurance test. The icy winds and choppy waters made for a cold, miserable crossing, even in my warmest gear, I couldn’t fully appreciate the beautiful surroundings.

We were fortunate to have a clear, sunny day on Mykines. However, it’s important to note that ferry services can be cancelled at short notice if the captain deems the journey unsafe.

Arriving in Mykines: First Steps and Lunch

The ferry deposited us in a small natural harbour, and after a short uphill walk, we found ourselves in the charming village of Mykines. Bartal checked in with the land administrators to pay our ‘hiking tax’ and to confirm the path to the lighthouse’s status.
It was closed, as expected. We collectively decided to have lunch first, giving the majority of the tourists time to clear the trail before we began our hike.

Lunch turned into a mini adventure of its own. Seated on a beach against a building, enjoying fresh bagels, we were joined by a rather enthusiastic hen. Though she wasn’t violent, she made her intentions for our bagels very clear!

Choosing the Trail: The Road Less Travelled

While many headed straight for the memorial monument and Òli Rama viewpoint, our group opted for a quieter experience. We chose the 5km trail outside the village, leading along the cliffs to the á Rógvu viewpoint. The route promised fewer crowds, stunning aerial views of the village, and dramatic coastal scenery.

Hiking in the Faroes demands preparation for all kinds of weather. We began our hike bundled up against the cold, windswept by the ocean breeze. By the time we reached á Rógvu, the weather had transformed; so calm and beautiful that we shed our layers and sat in the sun, watching the puffins in just our t-shirts.

Facing My Fears: A Steep Climb

I have a confession to make; while I enjoying hiking, steep inclines and declines terrify me. A nasty accident on Box Hill in Surrey left me with a lasting fear of falling. At the start of the trail, the climb was steep but manageable. However, further up, the narrow paths and streams of hikers coming down proved too much, I froze.

Bartal was brilliant, helping guide me through the tightest spots until we reached a more open area. On the way back down, I made myself confront the same tricky path. With determination (and some help), I managed to overcome it. It felt like a small victory.

Puffin Paradise at á Rógvu

I could have spent all day at á Rógvu. Puffins hopped and flew around us, so close they seemed more curious about us than we were about them. With dramatic cliffs in the background and the sound of waves crashing below, it was pure magic.

We sat there for what felt like hours, basking in the serenity and beauty of it all. But eventually, it was time to leave this puffin paradise and return to the village for our ferry back to Vágar.

Village Charm and a Cosy Farewell

Retracing our steps from the cliffside, we opted to skip the more direct route back to the village. We meandered through the charming little village of Mykines, a stroll across a small bridge, over a tiny river, led us to one of the trails on the opposite side of the island. The wind picked up, and the cold began to nip again, so we unanimously decided to seek refuge in the warmth of the village cáfe, aptly named The Local.

Grabbing one of the last tables, we ordered hot drinks to thaw ourselves. The American couple ordered a stewed apple dessert, which the husband declared absolutely delicious. Bartal, having wandered off for a while, soon joined us and shared a lovely anecdote about how this apple dessert was his favourite as a child. Apples, he explained, are surprisingly popular in the Faroe Islands.

The return journey wasn’t nearly as eventful. Exhausted from the day’s adventures, I headed below deck to escape the cold, where I dozed off for a bit. It felt right to let the couple enjoy some quiet time together after their kind inclusivity throughout the day. By the time we docked back at Sørvágur, I was ready to return to the comfort of my hotel and reflect on one of the most magical days I’d ever experienced.

Practical Tips for Your Mykines Adventure

Mykines is a place of unparalleled beauty, but it’s also an islands that demands a bit of preparation to truly enjoy its magic. Here’s what I learnt from my own trip:

Know Before You Go

Hiking in Mykines is strictly regulated to protect its delicate ecosystem and wildlife. You must have a certified Faroese guide to access the hiking trails. This ensures the area is managed sustainably while giving visitors the opportunity to enjoy the island responsibility.

Book in Advance

Both the ferry to Mykines and your guided hiking tour needs to be booked well in advance, as the spaces are very limited. There is a daily cap of 200 visitors on the island, and tickets for the ferry cannot be purchased on-site. I booked my tour through Guide to Faroe Islands, but you can also visit hiking.fo to arrange your guide and plan your trip.

Prepare for All Weather

Weather in the Faroe is unpredictable, so dress in layers and bring waterproof clothing – even in summer. While hiking, it’s common to start off chilly and end up shredding layers as the weather clear (or vice versa!). Sturdy footwear with a good grip is essential for often steep and uneven trails.

Be Flexible

Travel to Mykines is highly dependent on weather conditions. The ferry is frequently cancelled if conditions are deemed unsafe, so have a backup plan in case your trip doesn’t go ahead as scheduled.

Respect the Puffins

The puffins are undeniably the stars of Mykines, but remember to keep a respectful distance and avoid disturbing them, especially during nesting season. Follow your guide’s instruction to ensure your visit has minimal impact on the wildlife.

Stay Hydrated and Fuelled

Bring water and snacks for the hike, but make time to visit The Local cáfe in the village for a hot drink or traditional Faroese treat. It’s the perfect spot to warm up and soak in the atmosphere after your hike.

Happy & safe travels

L x👣