Lore and Landscapes: Exploring Kalsoy Island

Last Updated on 11th September 2025

The roundabout is more than any ordinary roundabout, it’s piece of art. Created by Faroese artist Trondur Paterson the roundabout is illuminated by light effect and surrounding by a sculpture, a steal ring that illustrates dancing the traditional Faroese dance. My blurry photos, taken from a moving car, don’t do it justice.

Important Information Before You Go

• Mandatory Fee: A fee of 200DKK, 100DKK child, is required to access the trail, payable on site. While you don’t need a guide to hike this path, there are set opening hours:
  • Monday – Friday: 09:00 – 18.00
  • Saturday: 09:00 – 17-00
  • Sunday: 11:00 – 17.00.
• Closures: The path may close in extreme weather conditions, or during hare hunting and lambing seasons, so it’s with checking ahead.
• Hiking Fees and Regulations: Currently, the “right to roam” isn’t fully regulated in the Faroe Islands. Farmers and tourism companies often impose fees to maintain trails. However, new legislation coming into effect in 2026 will introduce a standardised tourist tax. This tax will fund the maintenance of the hiking paths and tourism infrastructure. From 2026, additional fees can only be charged if services (e.g. guiding) are provided.
• Future Restrictions: To protect the countryside, the new law will also allow for limits on trail access and visitor numbers.

For the most up-to-date information, including weather-related closures or seasonal restriction, visit the hiking page on Visit Faroe Islands or hiking.fo.

Getting There

Our day began bright and early at 8:15, with a small group of three adventurers. The drive through the Eysturoy Tunnel was a treat, I couldn’t help but squealed with delight when the colourful roundabout came into view. After a quick stop to grab bagels for our lunch, we headed to the port at Klaksvík to catch the Sam ferry to Kalsoy.

The ferry departs from Klaksvík and arrives at Syðradalur harbour on Kalsoy. It has a capacity of only 12 vehicles, so it’s highly recommended to leave your car in Klaksvik and take advantage of the buses on Kalsoy, which transport visitors to the key attractions. That’s exactly what we did! As always, I strongly advise booking your ferry tickets in advance to secure your spot.

On this particular morning, the ferry wasn’t busy, so we easily found a table and seats. However, as the weather transformed into a lovely sunny spring day, I couldn’t resist heading up to the deck to snap some photos of the breathtaking journey to Kalsoy.

When we arrived, the bus to Trøllanes was already waiting, prompting a bit of a scramble to board. As with most public services in the Faroe Islands, local residents get priority seating, so don’t be surprised if it feels a bit chaotic! The 30-minute journey was crowded, and we had to stand. The bus fare was 50DKK, payable by credit card. You can find the bus timetable for the Trøllanes service on ssl.fo.

If you’re travelling independently, consider purchasing a travel card, which covers you for most bus and ferry journeys (it doesn’t cover the Mykines ferry) and can save you time and hassle.

Legends and Landfalls: The Journey to Kallur Lighthouse

Kalsoy, located in the northern reaches of the Faroe Islands, is a land steeped in folklore, cinematic fame, and striking natural beauty. Known for its varied landscapes and vistas, the island also earned a place in modern lore as the setting for the villain’s lair in No Time to Die. But before James Bond, it was the trolls who left their mark on this mysterious island.

Our hike began in the small village of Trøllanes, or “Troll Peninsula” in English. Legend has it that every Twelfth Night, trolls from the surrounding mountains would descend upon the village for their revelry. On year, an elderly woman, too frail to flee the next village, dared to invoke Christ’s name as the trolls partied. Her act of defiance banished them for good, leaving the village shrouded in eerie quiet and timeless charm.

The morning rain had left the start of our hike steep, muddy, and treacherously slippery. Randi, our guide, warned us against taking the usual path, deeming it unsafe due to the conditions. Instead, she led us up a less trodden route that offered natural steps. But the words “slippery and unsafe”were already echoing in my mind, making every step feel precarious. My flimsy hiking pole was no match for the challenge, so Randi kindly lent me her beautifully hand-carved wooden pole. Its sturdy presence, mostly psychological, was just what I needed to steady myself.

Randi herself was extraordinary. She ascended the hill with remarkable ease, finding footing where there seemed to be none. Our group quickly dubbed her “The Goat”, a nickname she more than earned with her effortless agility.

The path, though boggy in places and lashed by piercing winds, revealed landscapes that were nothing short of majestic. The rugged beauty of Kalsoy was undeniable, even in the less-than-ideal weather. As we trudged along, I silently voted to return one summer, when the sun might cast a softer lift on these dramatic cliffs.

Finally, we reached the lighthouse, where the wind was so ferocious that most hikers huddled close for shelter. Randi advised against venturing to the Eastern Point, as the gusts made it perilously unsafe, though a few daring souls could be seen braving the climb in the distance. Closer to us, another option awaited: a short climb to “James Bond’s headstone,” crafted by a local stonemason to mark the fictional spy’s final resting place in No Time to Die. Only one member of our group opted to tackle the sleep incline, returning with a satisfied smile and simple declaration, “it was worth it.”

Through the cold, the mud, and the wind, this hike wasn’t easy, but it was unforgettable. Kalsoy’s wild landscapes, enriched by its legends, seemed to whisper stories at every turn, a reminder that this island is as much about its folklore as its breathtaking vistas.

From Trøllanes to Mikladalur: Folklore, Statues, and Stories

After completing our hike, we had some time to explore Trøllanes. I found myself curiously peeking into a barn where wheels of cheese were aging, their earthy aroma mingling with the fresh village air. While we waited for Randi’s friend to arrive to take us to Mikladalur, we saw people walking toward the tunnel that connects the two villages. Personally, I wouldn’t walk through a car tunnel like that, but it seems to be an adventurous choice for some. For those who prefer more convenience, there are buses connecting the villages, just be sure to time your hike accordingly. You can find the bus schedules at ssl.fo

If Trøllanes felt quaint, Mikladalur excluded an air of mystery. The village was eerily quiet, as if its residents were hiding from the trolls of old folklore. As we wandered through the village, Randi regaled us with local stories, adding layers of intrigue to the serene surroundings.

One of the tales she shared was about Marjun, a milkmaid from the 16th century who fell pregnant out of wedlock – a transgression punishable by death in those times. One day, while tending cows, Marjun lifted a 270g lifting stone, known as called hav in Faroese. Despite others urging her to stop, she declared, “I know what lies in store for me: I’d rather lose my life. Therefore, this hav will be my only legacy”. Her fate remains unknown, but Marjunar Hav still resides in Mikladalur, beneath a mural of Marjun by Óli Skarðenni.

We couldn’t leave Mikladalur without visiting its most famous resident; Kópakonan, the Seal Woman. Her striking statue, crafted by Hans Pauli Olsen, stands on the shoreline, accessible by steep stairs. The legend tells of seals who were once human, granted once night a year, the Thirteenth Night, to shed their skin and dance on land as humans. A young farmer, captivated by a beautiful seal woman, stole her skin, forcing her to stay with him. She remained with him for many years, bearing him several children. One day while out fishing, the man realising that he has left key at home rushed back to discover the seal woman and her sealskin had gone. Years passed and the seal woman came to the man in a dream warning him not to kill her family during a seal hunt. The farmer ignored her warning, leading to their deaths. Enraged, Kópakonan cursed the men of the village, vowing that every man lost at seas or tot he cliffs would be her revenge. You can read the full legend here.

As the Faroe Islands’ unpredictable weather shifted, we sought shelter in a small stone bus shelter. Lunch, a modest spread of chicken bagels (which I couldn’t eat), apples, and crisps, was accompanied by excited chatter about the day’s adventures. The bus soon arrived to take us back to the harbour for our return ferry.

Back in Tórshavn, I felt recharged from the day. After a refreshing shower and a change of clothes, I set out to enjoy an evening sampling craft beer at Mikkeller and indulging in sushi at Etika.

Practical Tips for Visiting Kalsoy

• Ferry Booking: The Sam ferry from Klaksvík to Kalsoy has limited vehicle capacity (only 12 cars). To guarantee a spot, it’s best to leave your car in Klaksvík and use the bus system on Kalsoy. Tickets for both the ferry and buses can be booked in advance via ssl.fo.
• Packing Essentials: The weather in the Faroe Islands is unpredictable, so wear layers and bring waterproof clothing. Sturdy hiking boots with good grip are essential for tackling the steep and muddy terrain.
• Hiking to Kallur Lighthouse: Be prepared for challenging conditions, especially if it has rained recently. If a guided hike is available, consider joining one for added safety. A study hiking pole is highly recommended to navigate slippery paths.
• Navigating Kalsoy’s Villages: The bus between villages is convenient, but check the timetable on ssl.fo and plan your hikes accordingly. Walking through the car tunnels isn’t advisable due to safety concerns.
• Explore Trøllanes and Mikladalur: Don’t miss the change to explore Trøllanes and its serene atmosphere. In Mikladalur, take time to see Marjunar Have, the mural of Marjunar, and the stunning Kópakonan statue. The stairs to the shoreline are steep but manageable with care.
• Lunch and Refreshments: Bring your own packed lunch, as food options are limited on Kalsoy. The villages have few facilities, so pack snacks, water, and any other essentials you might need to the day. If like me you have dietary needs, make it absolutely clear to your guide what they are – don’t assume they know a vegetarian excludes all meat.
• Respect for Nature and Folklore: The Faroe Islands’ landscapes are stunning but fragile, so stick to marked paths where possible and follow your guide’s advice. Take time to appreciate the rich folklore woven into the island’s culture – these stories truly bring the landscapes to life.
• Timing Your Visit: Spring and summer offer better weather and more accessible trails, but even then, be prepared for the elements. If visiting during colder months, check local weather updates and trail conditions before heading out.

Happy & safe travels!

L x👣